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#1
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posted to rec.boats.building
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A suggestion-
If your strips are irregular in thickness, that could cause great difficulty in fairing the boat. If you're lucky, both edges of the strips were milled with the same face of the strip down to the router table. If so, plank the boat with that face toward the molds. That way, most of the fairing irregularities will be on the outside of he boat. Note that to do this, you need to end-for-end the strips which will be used on one side of the boat. "jim.isbell" wrote in message oups.com... Well, after measuring the entire project and looking at several pieces he had put on it, luckily only 6 cedar strips were done, his statement that he had neither the time nor motivation to finish it could be added to. He also didn't have the talent. I don't see how one could get every spacing, EVERY one, between the forms, all wrong!! They are supposed to be 12.5" and 13" and they vary from 11" to 13" and not one of them correct for the position. Luckily it isn't that critical except in the bow and stern where he had a concave curvature to the hull. But I was able to correct that by pulling the nails and allowing the strips to float to their own natural curve on both ends at frame #5. I have since added 8 more strips and just left them floating at frame #5 and its working fine. Lucky for me he got the first strip in just the right place or I would have had to start all over from scratch. If he had finished the canoe it would have been a disaster. Even the strips that he had ripped and cove and bead routered are of various thicknesses. He must have used a hand saw instead of a table saw to rip them. But the boat is in competent hands now and will be finished in a couple of weeks.....if nothing intervenes. |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.building
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I have been hand picking the strips for thickness so that the most
grossly uneven strips will be on the bottom and as suggested I am also making sure as I glue them to have the strips even on the outside surface to make fairing easier. Is there a place to post pictures on this forum? OR if I attach them will they come thru? |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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It's much harder to fair the inside than the outside, so i recommend planking so that the inside is as smooth as you can get it, letting the outside be what it wants to be.
My Wee Lassie II is here "jim.isbell" wrote in message ups.com... I have been hand picking the strips for thickness so that the most grossly uneven strips will be on the bottom and as suggested I am also making sure as I glue them to have the strips even on the outside surface to make fairing easier. Is there a place to post pictures on this forum? OR if I attach them will they come thru? |
#4
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posted to rec.boats.building
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On Apr 1, 8:51 pm, "Jim Conlin" wrote:
It's much harder to fair the inside than the outside, so i recommend planking so that the inside is as smooth as you can get it, letting the outside be what it wants to be. My Wee Lassie II is here Thats a good thought. So far I have glued in only two thick strips and they are on the sides before the chine curve so hopefully I can sand them easier. I will make the next thick one stick out instead of in. You say "My Wee Lassie II is here", where is "here" Was there supposed to be a URL there? It didn't come thru. |
#5
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Here http://conlin-boats.com/wl2_02.jpg
"jim.isbell" wrote in message ups.com... On Apr 1, 8:51 pm, "Jim Conlin" wrote: It's much harder to fair the inside than the outside, so i recommend planking so that the inside is as smooth as you can get it, letting the outside be what it wants to be. My Wee Lassie II is here Thats a good thought. So far I have glued in only two thick strips and they are on the sides before the chine curve so hopefully I can sand them easier. I will make the next thick one stick out instead of in. You say "My Wee Lassie II is here", where is "here" Was there supposed to be a URL there? It didn't come thru. |
#6
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posted to rec.boats.building
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I am turning the corner at the chine now and heading toward the keel.
One thing not shown in the book but only mentioned, is the keel strip. In one picture it looks to be about 2" wide, but it is never described anywhere that I can find. Does anyone know what the details are and when it is supposed to be laid? I will probably have to lay it in tomorrow before I do any more side strips. |
#7
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posted to rec.boats.building
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Another question, is the bottom supposed to have a "W" shape to it?
If I use the dimensions given in the book for the Wee Lassie 2 it produces a "w" curve on the bottom as the #4 "mold" is taller than the #3 "mold". The #4 and #2 "molds" are the same height but the #3 is 1/16th inch shorter making a dip (or rise if the boat is right side up) on both sides of the center which is higher. Is this a misprint? I can correct it now as I have not yet put the keel strip on. but after the keel strip is on the bottom curve will be set. |
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