A suggestion-
If your strips are irregular in thickness, that could cause great difficulty
in fairing the boat. If you're lucky, both edges of the strips were milled
with the same face of the strip down to the router table. If so, plank the
boat with that face toward the molds. That way, most of the fairing
irregularities will be on the outside of he boat. Note that to do this, you
need to end-for-end the strips which will be used on one side of the boat.


"jim.isbell" wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, after measuring the entire project and looking at several pieces
he had put on it, luckily only 6 cedar strips were done, his statement
that he had neither the time nor motivation to finish it could be
added to. He also didn't have the talent.

I don't see how one could get every spacing, EVERY one, between the
forms, all wrong!! They are supposed to be 12.5" and 13" and they
vary from 11" to 13" and not one of them correct for the position.

Luckily it isn't that critical except in the bow and stern where he
had a concave curvature to the hull. But I was able to correct that
by pulling the nails and allowing the strips to float to their own
natural curve on both ends at frame #5. I have since added 8 more
strips and just left them floating at frame #5 and its working fine.
Lucky for me he got the first strip in just the right place or I would
have had to start all over from scratch.

If he had finished the canoe it would have been a disaster. Even the
strips that he had ripped and cove and bead routered are of various
thicknesses. He must have used a hand saw instead of a table saw to
rip them.

But the boat is in competent hands now and will be finished in a
couple of weeks.....if nothing intervenes.