Hi,

I am in the process of applying epoxy (105 + 207) to teak wood,
which I prepared with Teka Cleaner (A+B). I am brushing the epoxy on
with a nylon brush.

What can I do to minimize the legions of tiny bubbles in the surface? I
tried smoothing with the brush, which helps some, but not enough.

Also, the cured surface is a bit textured, not as smooth as I had
hoped. How can I make the resin 'flow' smoother?

Thanks a lot,

Chris

wrote:

I am in the process of applying epoxy (105 + 207) to teak wood,
which I prepared with Teka Cleaner (A+B). I am brushing the epoxy on
with a nylon brush.

What can I do to minimize the legions of tiny bubbles in the surface? I
tried smoothing with the brush, which helps some, but not enough.

Also, the cured surface is a bit textured, not as smooth as I had
hoped. How can I make the resin 'flow' smoother?

Flow a rather heavy coat on to the surface, brushing in only one
direction.

When cured, sand lightly and apply another coat.

Takes 3-4 coats to get a smooth surface.

BTW, I use chip brushes and throw them away.

Costs more to clean them than they are worth which is less than $0.25.


Lew

The trick I use is to heat the wood with a heat gun just before the epoxy is
applied. I believe the bubbles are the result of the epoxy heating the air
in the wood's pores so it bubbles out. If the wood is heated first, the air
is cooling and contracting and pulls the epoxy into the pores. My heat gun
is a Black & Decker plastic job made for stripping paint (cheap) (works).

It's not just the bubbles, the air leaves pin holes which are the very devil
to remove/fill.

This is only necessary when applying the epoxy to bare wood. After the
first coat, I've had no problems.

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I am in the process of applying epoxy (105 + 207) to teak wood,
which I prepared with Teka Cleaner (A+B). I am brushing the epoxy on
with a nylon brush.

What can I do to minimize the legions of tiny bubbles in the surface? I
tried smoothing with the brush, which helps some, but not enough.

Also, the cured surface is a bit textured, not as smooth as I had
hoped. How can I make the resin 'flow' smoother?

Thanks a lot,

Chris

Question for you:

Was your teak blackened from regular teak oil and did the Teka turn it
back to teak color?

I made the mistake of trying teak oil this year thinking it wouldn't
blacken as much as it did in this climate and short season. Never
again. Also, every little drip on the non-skid that you don't see
later turn black and almost unremovable. Even wiping down with mineral
spirits vigorously immediately upon spilling doesn't prevent a black
spot a couple weeks later.

My old teak has been scraped and cleaned so many time that I hate to
take off another 1/32 of an inch.

I haven't decided what to do next spring. There seem to be as many
opinions as decks.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I am in the process of applying epoxy (105 + 207) to teak wood,
which I prepared with Teka Cleaner (A+B). I am brushing the epoxy on
with a nylon brush.

What can I do to minimize the legions of tiny bubbles in the
surface? I
tried smoothing with the brush, which helps some, but not enough.

Also, the cured surface is a bit textured, not as smooth as I had
hoped. How can I make the resin 'flow' smoother?

Thanks a lot,

Chris

wrote:
Hi,

I am in the process of applying epoxy (105 + 207) to teak wood,

Why? To make it pretty? Big mistake IMO.
____________

What can I do to minimize the legions of tiny bubbles in the
surface? I tried smoothing with the brush, which helps some, but
not enough.

A. Pass the flame of a torch over them...enough to heat & expand the
air in the bubbles and make them pop but not enough to ignite the
epoxy.

-OR-

B. Split a foam roller lengthwise and drag the foam edge gently and
slowly over the epoxy. Foam brush is OK too, roller covers more area.
The torch works best.
______________

Also, the cured surface is a bit textured, not as smooth as I had
hoped. How can I make the resin 'flow' smoother?

Thin it a bit with lacquer thinner.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I have had good luck by washing the teak deck in the spring using soap,
water and bleach. A little scrubbing and the decks look wonderful all
summer long.
Dave
"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Question for you:

Was your teak blackened from regular teak oil and did the Teka turn it
back to teak color?

I made the mistake of trying teak oil this year thinking it wouldn't
blacken as much as it did in this climate and short season. Never again.
Also, every little drip on the non-skid that you don't see later turn
black and almost unremovable. Even wiping down with mineral spirits
vigorously immediately upon spilling doesn't prevent a black spot a couple
weeks later.

My old teak has been scraped and cleaned so many time that I hate to take
off another 1/32 of an inch.

I haven't decided what to do next spring. There seem to be as many
opinions as decks.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I am in the process of applying epoxy (105 + 207) to teak wood,
which I prepared with Teka Cleaner (A+B). I am brushing the epoxy on
with a nylon brush.

What can I do to minimize the legions of tiny bubbles in the surface? I
tried smoothing with the brush, which helps some, but not enough.

Also, the cured surface is a bit textured, not as smooth as I had
hoped. How can I make the resin 'flow' smoother?

Thanks a lot,

Chris

Hey Roger ,, why don't you just let it go natural for a season or two?



"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Question for you:

Was your teak blackened from regular teak oil and did the Teka turn it
back to teak color?

I made the mistake of trying teak oil this year thinking it wouldn't
blacken as much as it did in this climate and short season. Never again.
Also, every little drip on the non-skid that you don't see later turn
black and almost unremovable. Even wiping down with mineral spirits
vigorously immediately upon spilling doesn't prevent a black spot a couple
weeks later.

My old teak has been scraped and cleaned so many time that I hate to take
off another 1/32 of an inch.

I haven't decided what to do next spring. There seem to be as many
opinions as decks.

--

Roger Long



wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I am in the process of applying epoxy (105 + 207) to teak wood,
which I prepared with Teka Cleaner (A+B). I am brushing the epoxy on
with a nylon brush.

What can I do to minimize the legions of tiny bubbles in the surface? I
tried smoothing with the brush, which helps some, but not enough.

Also, the cured surface is a bit textured, not as smooth as I had
hoped. How can I make the resin 'flow' smoother?

Thanks a lot,

Chris

Roger Long wrote:
Question for you:

Was your teak blackened from regular teak oil and did the Teka turn it
back to teak color?

Some of it had been oiled and was pretty dark, and the Teka worked well
on it. It was trim though, not a deck.
I used a sponge full of vinegar to wet the surrounding fiberglass, and
to neutralize any escaping Teka Part A. Watch Part B really closely and
rinse it off in time, unless you want the wood _really_ light.

Chris