The trick I use is to heat the wood with a heat gun just before the epoxy is
applied. I believe the bubbles are the result of the epoxy heating the air
in the wood's pores so it bubbles out. If the wood is heated first, the air
is cooling and contracting and pulls the epoxy into the pores. My heat gun
is a Black & Decker plastic job made for stripping paint (cheap) (works).

It's not just the bubbles, the air leaves pin holes which are the very devil
to remove/fill.

This is only necessary when applying the epoxy to bare wood. After the
first coat, I've had no problems.

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I am in the process of applying epoxy (105 + 207) to teak wood,
which I prepared with Teka Cleaner (A+B). I am brushing the epoxy on
with a nylon brush.

What can I do to minimize the legions of tiny bubbles in the surface? I
tried smoothing with the brush, which helps some, but not enough.

Also, the cured surface is a bit textured, not as smooth as I had
hoped. How can I make the resin 'flow' smoother?

Thanks a lot,

Chris