OOPS! that Triton is not a good choice as the engine is troubled. $15-20K
should get you a Triton or the like with a functioning diesel.

Jim Conlin wrote:

In that size range, unless you have very unusual requirements such as very
high performance, icebreaking or heartstopping beauty, you can buy a sound
boat for less than it would cost you to build it. For example, this
Pearson Triton on Ebay.
Such a boat will afford opportunity for cabinetry improvements.



Hollywood wrote:

Hi All,

I'm considering building my own boat from a set of plans. It's nothing
major, just a 28'
round-bottomed cutter.

I know, build a dingy first to sharpen my skills, then build the big one.
Problem is, life's
getting on and, with the reaper peeking at me from over the next hill,
I'd like to get out and
do some sailing before he sits down with me.

I would try to buy one, but it would seem the rest of the world has never
heard of a beamy
24-30 foot wooden cutter with a transom hung rudder and a full keel using
lead as ballast. So
here I am.

I do understand most of the lines used in lofting with the exception of
the diagonal. What
exactly is the diagonal supposed to show me?

While I'm at it I might as well ask about frames. The plans call for
steam bent frames because
it is supposedly faster, cheaper and takes up less room than sawn frames.
I have a few problems
with this. 1) Where is one supposed to get the clear wood for the frames,
2] Bending a frame to
an arch isn't much of a problem but how do you bend it to match the curve
laid out by the
intersection of the water lines and buttocks (i.e. the angle described
gets more acute the
closer to the bow at the sheer but will be flatter on the same frame
close to the keel. This
can be done on a sawn frame by changing the angle of the bandsaw table as
you cut the frame).

Thanks for any help,

Frank

On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 16:51:40 GMT, Jim Conlin wrote:


Thanks Jim,

Actually for $6500, it's not that bad. An outboard will work as well as the diesel and I could
get some interior space back.

To tell the truth, I don't go to eBay that often.

Thanks again,

Frank

Jim Conlin wrote:

In that size range, unless you have very unusual requirements such
as very high performance, icebreaking or heartstopping beauty, you
can buy a sound boat for less than it would cost you to build it.
For example, this Pearson Triton on Ebay.
Such a boat will afford opportunity for cabinetry improvements.

How about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3078 808&rd=1

Plenty to hold the interest of anyone who wants to learn boat
carpentry. Although, like most boats (and other things on Ebay) I
suspect it's badly overpriced. A boat this pretty, and this unique,
shouldn't be left to mulch.

DSK

On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 16:29:31 -0400, DSK wrote:

Jim Conlin wrote:

In that size range, unless you have very unusual requirements such
as very high performance, icebreaking or heartstopping beauty, you
can buy a sound boat for less than it would cost you to build it.
For example, this Pearson Triton on Ebay.
Such a boat will afford opportunity for cabinetry improvements.

How about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3078 808&rd=1

Plenty to hold the interest of anyone who wants to learn boat
carpentry. Although, like most boats (and other things on Ebay) I
suspect it's badly overpriced. A boat this pretty, and this unique,
shouldn't be left to mulch.

DSK

Nice, but 58 feet is just a wee bit more than I care to handle.

Hollywood wrote:


Nice, but 58 feet is just a wee bit more than I care to handle.

S'OK, it's got the cabin of a 28-footer!



DSK

regarding the value of diagonals, they give the designer another set of
points, which are useful for evaluating the fairness of the hull,
particularly around the turn of the bilge.

"Hollywood" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

I'm considering building my own boat from a set of plans. It's nothing
major, just a 28'
round-bottomed cutter.

I know, build a dingy first to sharpen my skills, then build the big one.
Problem is, life's
getting on and, with the reaper peeking at me from over the next hill, I'd
like to get out and
do some sailing before he sits down with me.

I would try to buy one, but it would seem the rest of the world has never
heard of a beamy
24-30 foot wooden cutter with a transom hung rudder and a full keel using
lead as ballast. So
here I am.

I do understand most of the lines used in lofting with the exception of
the diagonal. What
exactly is the diagonal supposed to show me?

While I'm at it I might as well ask about frames. The plans call for steam
bent frames because
it is supposedly faster, cheaper and takes up less room than sawn frames.
I have a few problems
with this. 1) Where is one supposed to get the clear wood for the frames,
2] Bending a frame to
an arch isn't much of a problem but how do you bend it to match the curve
laid out by the
intersection of the water lines and buttocks (i.e. the angle described
gets more acute the
closer to the bow at the sheer but will be flatter on the same frame close
to the keel. This
can be done on a sawn frame by changing the angle of the bandsaw table as
you cut the frame).

Thanks for any help,

Frank

John Holtrop wrote:
regarding the value of diagonals, they give the designer another set of
points, which are useful for evaluating the fairness of the hull,
particularly around the turn of the bilge.


See http://www.dixdesign.com/lofting1.htm about a third of the way down
the page (figure 1) for an example. The body plan (right side center)
shows where the diagonals are run, and the diagonals themselves are
shown below the waterlines. Generally, diagonals are positioned where
the curvature of the hull is significant (often in way of the turn of
the bilge). The additional offsets provide more definition where the
buttocks and waterlines do not provide enough points to clearly
determine hull shape. Note that the diagonals do not all have to have
the same origin (as the example shows).

dave

--
-----
news_bucket e-mail address goes to a blackhole. Sorry. Send e-mail to
"respond" at the same domain.

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 13:06:47 -0400, Dave Skolnick wrote:

John Holtrop wrote:
regarding the value of diagonals, they give the designer another set of
points, which are useful for evaluating the fairness of the hull,
particularly around the turn of the bilge.


See http://www.dixdesign.com/lofting1.htm about a third of the way down
the page (figure 1) for an example. The body plan (right side center)
shows where the diagonals are run, and the diagonals themselves are
shown below the waterlines. Generally, diagonals are positioned where
the curvature of the hull is significant (often in way of the turn of
the bilge). The additional offsets provide more definition where the
buttocks and waterlines do not provide enough points to clearly
determine hull shape. Note that the diagonals do not all have to have
the same origin (as the example shows).

dave


Thanks everybody for the info. I have now added Stewart to Chappelle and Pardey and I guess I
have some reading to do.

Frank