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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
ok let's not jump this guy and tell him he's wrong for wanting to do
this project until he has a chance to better describe his situation. We could all be wrong here. Glenn Ashmore wrote: I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral to tell you. I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise. If you want advice from the real experts, sign into the Woodenboat Magazine repair forum at http://www.woodenboat.com/ and ask. 90% of those guys restore classic wooden boats. Some have several hulls under their belts and know what they are doing. You will definitely get some responses. That question is like waving a red flag at a bull on that forum. As to the paint: Marine topsides paints should never be applied below the waterline. A high quality anti-fouling bottom paint is made for that. There are many on the market with various formulations. Some work better in warm water and others in cold. It is best to ask around your marina/boatyard and find out which brand works best in your area. |
#2
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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
He has made two posts asking the same question. He did not say the
bottom was rotting or in need of major repairs. Just that he wanted to "protect" it. He didn't listen the first time so I figured a bit stronger language was called for. Matt Langenfeld wrote: ok let's not jump this guy and tell him he's wrong for wanting to do this project until he has a chance to better describe his situation. We could all be wrong here. Glenn Ashmore wrote: I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral to tell you. I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise. If you want advice from the real experts, sign into the Woodenboat Magazine repair forum at http://www.woodenboat.com/ and ask. 90% of those guys restore classic wooden boats. Some have several hulls under their belts and know what they are doing. You will definitely get some responses. That question is like waving a red flag at a bull on that forum. As to the paint: Marine topsides paints should never be applied below the waterline. A high quality anti-fouling bottom paint is made for that. There are many on the market with various formulations. Some work better in warm water and others in cold. It is best to ask around your marina/boatyard and find out which brand works best in your area. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#3
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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
Actually, that advice was just what i was looking for. i wasn't even
sure if i could do it but you answered my questions correctly. the reason i posted twice is because the first message i posted like 15 hours before the second but it still didn't show up on my newsreader so i thought that it didnt go through. Anyways guys, thanks for the advice, ill replace any rotten planks i see on the hull after sanding and stuff before using antifouling paint and caulking. Much Obliged -Jay. On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:58:20 -0400, Glenn Ashmore wrote: He has made two posts asking the same question. He did not say the bottom was rotting or in need of major repairs. Just that he wanted to "protect" it. He didn't listen the first time so I figured a bit stronger language was called for. |
#4
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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
Good to hear you're making the right, and informed, decision.
Now if you'll excuse me....I have to go get this shoe taste out of my mouth. Jason wrote: Actually, that advice was just what i was looking for. i wasn't even sure if i could do it but you answered my questions correctly. the reason i posted twice is because the first message i posted like 15 hours before the second but it still didn't show up on my newsreader so i thought that it didnt go through. Anyways guys, thanks for the advice, ill replace any rotten planks i see on the hull after sanding and stuff before using antifouling paint and caulking. Much Obliged -Jay. On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:58:20 -0400, Glenn Ashmore wrote: He has made two posts asking the same question. He did not say the bottom was rotting or in need of major repairs. Just that he wanted to "protect" it. He didn't listen the first time so I figured a bit stronger language was called for. |
#5
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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
Glenn gets extra credibility because he's not trying to sell anything here.
Matt Langenfeld wrote: ok let's not jump this guy and tell him he's wrong for wanting to do this project until he has a chance to better describe his situation. We could all be wrong here. Glenn Ashmore wrote: I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral to tell you. I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise. If you want advice from the real experts, sign into the Woodenboat Magazine repair forum at http://www.woodenboat.com/ and ask. 90% of those guys restore classic wooden boats. Some have several hulls under their belts and know what they are doing. You will definitely get some responses. That question is like waving a red flag at a bull on that forum. As to the paint: Marine topsides paints should never be applied below the waterline. A high quality anti-fouling bottom paint is made for that. There are many on the market with various formulations. Some work better in warm water and others in cold. It is best to ask around your marina/boatyard and find out which brand works best in your area. |
#6
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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
Jim Conlin wrote: Glenn gets extra credibility because he's not trying to sell anything here. Well I DO have this pile of anchors in the back yard. :-) -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#7
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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
Glenn says:
Well I DO have this pile of anchors in the back yard. :-) You collect Yugos? ;-) Steve |
#8
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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
Matt Langenfeld wrote in message hlink.net...
ok let's not jump this guy and tell him he's wrong for wanting to do this project until he has a chance to better describe his situation. We could all be wrong here. Glenn Ashmore wrote: I know how to estimate your glass requirements but it would be immoral to tell you. I will repeat: Fiberglass sheathing an older carvel planked hull is a sure way to a quick death. It should only be done to squeeze an extra few years out of a hull that is unsalvageable otherwise. Allan H. Vaitses has a book called 'Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass' which describes a process that does more than 'squeeze a few extra years' out of a boat.A fairly common practice around here for wooden shrimpboats is to clean up the hull,coat the hull with 5200 and imbed 24oz woven roven in that.Once that is set up it is saturated with polyester resin and more layers of mat and woven roven applied.I have a friend who covered a 55' three masted Herrschoff schooner(?) with epoxy and glass and not because it was 'otherwise unsalvagable' but for less maintenance.He put 2 blades on a skilsaw,reamed out the seams ALMOST but not quite the full thickness of the planks,packed them with some sort of thickened epoxy then glassed the whole hull, 20 some years ago.I think a lot of problems with boats aren't neccesarily 'what' was done but 'how' it was done.I'm not trying to start anything here, just trying to explore the ying of the yang. |
#9
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Questions about Fiberglassing Wood - OurBoat.jpg (0/1)
However effective it might or might not be, the Vaitses method is not a quickie fix . It involved thorough preparation of the wood
surface including removal of spray rails and guards, heavy glass layups like 5+ layers of mat and woven roving and close fastening of the glass shell to the hull with screws.. It was most commonly used on low-budget commercial fishing boats over 40 feet. I never saw one of these jobs which achieved a level of finish which would be acceptable for a pleasure boat. Sam wrote: SNIP Allan H. Vaitses has a book called 'Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass' which describes a process that does more than 'squeeze a few extra years' out of a boat.A fairly common practice around here for wooden shrimpboats is to clean up the hull,coat the hull with 5200 and imbed 24oz woven roven in that.Once that is set up it is saturated with polyester resin and more layers of mat and woven roven applied.I have a friend who covered a 55' three masted Herrschoff schooner(?) with epoxy and glass and not because it was 'otherwise unsalvagable' but for less maintenance.He put 2 blades on a skilsaw,reamed out the seams ALMOST but not quite the full thickness of the planks,packed them with some sort of thickened epoxy then glassed the whole hull, 20 some years ago.I think a lot of problems with boats aren't neccesarily 'what' was done but 'how' it was done.I'm not trying to start anything here, just trying to explore the ying of the yang. |
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