I have tried various teak oil products, and although they look good immediately
after
application, a week later they appear to be gone. This is for a boat moored on
a port on Lake Michigan.

Sherwin D.

Sherwin,
'Teak Oil' by it's very nature is fugitive. That is it DOES 'disappear . . .
by absorption and evaporation. However, if it is truly within a week and you
are experiencing the same result with several reputable products, your
problem is relatively simple. You aren't using enough !!

Some of the *really cheap* stuff is only a bit of oil diluted by a LOT of
Kerosene. I use some fairly inexpensive stuff myself - typically the West
Marine 'house brand' or 'SeaBrite' {?} bought on sale - and have no problems
on Teak or Mahogany trim. Or even Lauan ply thwarts. The 'trick' is to
follow the directions on the bottle - usually to initially apply 'to
saturation'. MY particular technique it to use a 'chip brush' as an
applicator. Once the wood is 'cleaned & prepped', I pour a quantity into a
small container and flow it on like varnish. As it is absorbed {sometimes
almost instantaneously}I apply more. When it starts to 'pool' I stop and
leave it for an hour or so. If it has been absorbed I add more, if not I
wipe off the surplus and wait 24-hours or so.

Then another coat is WIPED on. If absorbed the wiping application is
repeated, if not the residual is wiped off and the job is done. Another WIPE
application is applied WHEN the wood looks like it needs 'refreshing'. This
is up to YOUR 'sensibilities', environment, and type of usage. It may be
annually, bi-annually, or every couple of months. Or weekly if you just
'like to do it'.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
I have tried various teak oil products, and although they look good
immediately
after
application, a week later they appear to be gone. This is for a boat
moored on
a port on Lake Michigan.

Sherwin D.

sherwindu wrote:
I have tried various teak oil products, and although they look good immediately
after
application, a week later they appear to be gone. This is for a boat moored on
a port on Lake Michigan.

Sherwin D.


A teak oil will do that, but that does seem too quick.

The only finish that last, stick, and build up on oily woods like teak,
rosewood and cocobolo is Cyanoacrylate(CA) (don't use actual Superglue
it's too thin).

You can google 'CA wood finish' for the procedure. I have not used it on
a boat, but I have been using is for fishing gear (reel seats, and
grips), and wood fishing nets for a couple of years. It's fairly easy to
learn how to apply it as a wood finish.

One warning - it builds quickly and has a thick glossy polyurethane
look. So if you do not like that look do not use it.

Christian

The only finish that last, stick, and build up on oily woods like teak,
rosewood and cocobolo is Cyanoacrylate(CA) (don't use actual Superglue
it's too thin).

You can google 'CA wood finish' for the procedure. I have not used it on
a boat, but I have been using is for fishing gear (reel seats, and
grips), and wood fishing nets for a couple of years. It's fairly easy to
learn how to apply it as a wood finish.

One warning - it builds quickly and has a thick glossy polyurethane
look. So if you do not like that look do not use it.

Christian

Hello Christian

Just found your contribution in a search as i am in similar process.
First point is CA is super glue, comes in thin, med and thick. I have
used the thin to penetrate some rotten wood in my sailing dinghy and as
a woodworker for 25 years have to recommend Danish oil instead of Teak.
Whatever is used though an oil finish needs a few coats, i thin mine
1:1 with spirit and regular doses after for integrity, but is still
better than the thick laquers which predominate.

David