"Chalatso" wrote...
Well, the boat is the bateau.com "cheap canoe," and they suggest a butt
joint, with a block glued over the butt. I think the method suffers a lot
for looks. The joint is right across the fattest part of the canoe,
exactly
at the middle. There's added stiffness in the sides from a rubrail, and I
might add a little inwale and a bottom runner, if the taped butt makes me
nervous.

You might be able to make it a bit more elegant by tapering the block edges.
From the photo of the NC16 on the site, the thwart will draw a lot of
attention away from the blocks. Also, I note they say the blocks may be
made from fiberglass, so a thin strip of tape, followed by a couple layers
of cloth built up with feathered edges may work out just fine.

From the curve of the hull, it appears the tensile stress on the outside of
the hull (where they show no blocks) will predominate over the compressive
stress inboard. Also, if the thwart is glassed in, it will help
considerably in stabilizing the joint. You might also add a fillet or block
under the edge of the thwart, if not already in the plans.

If you're going to paint it, using Kevlar instead of glass may provide more
stiffness with less build-up...

Just a thought,
I thought of building a canoe out of 2 layers of 1/8 ply, The joints could
them be staggered there would be no transition, no complicated scarfs and
more strength than butt joints, I was thinking of using contact cement
between the layers, only because I dont have a vacuum to hold the layers at
a uniform tension.
Another idea I am playing with is making two 8' halves with transoms at the
end and joining them together as a single canoe.
Hope this helps

"John R Weiss" wrote in message
news:7t9uc.10769$IB.9176@attbi_s04...
"Chalatso" wrote...
Well, the boat is the bateau.com "cheap canoe," and they suggest a butt
joint, with a block glued over the butt. I think the method suffers a
lot
for looks. The joint is right across the fattest part of the canoe,
exactly
at the middle. There's added stiffness in the sides from a rubrail, and
I
might add a little inwale and a bottom runner, if the taped butt makes
me
nervous.

You might be able to make it a bit more elegant by tapering the block
edges.
From the photo of the NC16 on the site, the thwart will draw a lot of
attention away from the blocks. Also, I note they say the blocks may be
made from fiberglass, so a thin strip of tape, followed by a couple layers
of cloth built up with feathered edges may work out just fine.

From the curve of the hull, it appears the tensile stress on the outside
of
the hull (where they show no blocks) will predominate over the compressive
stress inboard. Also, if the thwart is glassed in, it will help
considerably in stabilizing the joint. You might also add a fillet or
block
under the edge of the thwart, if not already in the plans.

If you're going to paint it, using Kevlar instead of glass may provide
more
stiffness with less build-up...

You can do that. If building on a set of molds, just lay out the first
layer so that the ends of the pieces land on a mold. You can stitch the
wood to the mold or to the other pieces of wood and then use a syringe to
'tack weld' along the edges with epoxy. Pygmy Kayaks are built this way.

Brian

--
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/catalog -- Discounted System Three
Resins products


..
"C" wrote in message
news:%gJwc.687269$Ig.205733@pd7tw2no...
Just a thought,
I thought of building a canoe out of 2 layers of 1/8 ply, The joints could
them be staggered there would be no transition, no complicated scarfs and
more strength than butt joints, I was thinking of using contact cement
between the layers, only because I dont have a vacuum to hold the layers
at
a uniform tension.
Another idea I am playing with is making two 8' halves with transoms at
the
end and joining them together as a single canoe.
Hope this helps

"John R Weiss" wrote in message
news:7t9uc.10769$IB.9176@attbi_s04...
"Chalatso" wrote...
Well, the boat is the bateau.com "cheap canoe," and they suggest a
butt
joint, with a block glued over the butt. I think the method suffers a
lot
for looks. The joint is right across the fattest part of the canoe,
exactly
at the middle. There's added stiffness in the sides from a rubrail,
and
I
might add a little inwale and a bottom runner, if the taped butt makes
me
nervous.

You might be able to make it a bit more elegant by tapering the block
edges.
From the photo of the NC16 on the site, the thwart will draw a lot of
attention away from the blocks. Also, I note they say the blocks may be
made from fiberglass, so a thin strip of tape, followed by a couple
layers
of cloth built up with feathered edges may work out just fine.

From the curve of the hull, it appears the tensile stress on the outside
of
the hull (where they show no blocks) will predominate over the
compressive
stress inboard. Also, if the thwart is glassed in, it will help
considerably in stabilizing the joint. You might also add a fillet or
block
under the edge of the thwart, if not already in the plans.

If you're going to paint it, using Kevlar instead of glass may provide
more
stiffness with less build-up...