I will not be coating the fairing compound with an additional layer of
unthickened epoxy resin. I will coat the fairing compound with epoxy
primer (specifically, 404/414 Epoxy Primkote that you probably have
mentioned in another post), and use it as a barrier to prevent water
from getting into the fairing compound. Therefore, I will not be using
the ScothBrite trick to minimize the chance of sanding through the thin
layer of epoxy resin. Instead, I will follow the instruction that I
have found in Interlux web site to prepare the surface.

Thanks anyway.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
If you don't want to remove epoxy with sanding, then put some ScotchBrite
scrubby material on a buffer and buff the epoxy, then use the primers like
Jim recommended. This will work fine for the primer/epoxy bond, and the
paint will bond with the primer quite well. I recommend lightly using a
carbide scraper to take off point defects (bugs, dust) before using the
scotchbrite to prevent snagging problems. Just takes a sec.

Brian


wrote in message
ups.com...
You are right. I forgot the fact that I need to sand the surface of
the coat of epoxy in order to allow the paint to bite into the epoxy
better. Your advice of painting the fairing compound with epoxy primer
sounds like a good idea. I will get a copy of the Interlux pamphlet on
boat finishing to learn the details to see how their product can
protect the fairing compound from absorbing water.

Thanks for explaining this to me.

Jay Chan


Jim Conlin wrote:
It won't be smooth enough to paint and without a sanding the adhesion of
paint is uncertain.
Either put on 2-3 coats and sand it or use an epoxy primer whoich goes on
much smoother.


wrote in message
oups.com...
No, I will not sand the thin coat of unthickened epoxy (that was the
reason why I said that I need to use a roller instead of a brush to
make sure the surface will be flat and not need to be sanded). And I
will be doing this to avoid the fairing compound from absorbing water.
I will not do this to improve the impact resistance because I got a
reply saying that the fairing compound (micoballoons) should be tough
enough to withstand normal foot traffic. I guess this should be OK to
use unthickened epoxy as the last coat before I paint it over with
non-skid paint. Moreover, I will paint it over with non-skid paint
that doesn't need to be perfectly smooth and flat anyway, right?

Jay Chan


Jim Conlin wrote:
Don't use epoxy resin as a last prime. It will not impart much
impact
resistance and sanding it flat will probably go through here&there.
Instead, sand the deck as you will and use a primer like INterlux
404/414 or
Awlgrip 545. Then paint.
Interlux publishes a very useful pamphlet on boat finishing. Get it.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Seem like I was worrying about the wrong thing. I was worrying
about
whether the light density fairing compound may not be able to
withstand
foot tranffic when I should have worried about the fairing compound
may
absorb and retain water. Thanks for the info.

This means I definitely should apply a coat of epoxy (not
thickened)
after I have sanded the fairing compound flat. Seem like I should
use
a roller instead of a brush to apply this coat of epoxy to avoid
brush
mark. OK, I know what to do now. Thanks.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech
support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or
(glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to
seal
it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one
person
here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run
conservative
and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine,
like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for
example,
that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing
Compound)
and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best
off
only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does
expand
and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as
time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't
worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck.
Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not
'quite'
as
tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not
tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products
many
times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for
normal
use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called
"Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a
layer
of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a
coat
of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light
density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle
normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this
is
not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the
faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any
difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

wrote:
I will not be coating the fairing compound with an additional layer of
unthickened epoxy resin. I will coat the fairing compound with epoxy
primer (specifically, 404/414 Epoxy Primkote that you probably have
mentioned in another post), and use it as a barrier to prevent water
from getting into the fairing compound.

snip

Save yourself some trouble.

Pick a coating system then use their high build primer to seal the
fairing compound.

That is how the systems are engineered.

Lew

wrote:

I will not be coating the fairing compound with an additional layer of
unthickened epoxy resin. I will coat the fairing compound with epoxy
primer (specifically, 404/414 Epoxy Primkote that you probably have
mentioned in another post), and use it as a barrier to prevent water
from getting into the fairing compound. Therefore, I will not be using
the ScothBrite trick to minimize the chance of sanding through the thin
layer of epoxy resin. Instead, I will follow the instruction that I
have found in Interlux web site to prepare the surface.

Thanks anyway.

Jay Chan



Better, Jay, but a lot of guys suggest picking one system and staying with it.
(Kinda like women?)

Otherwise, you are volunteering, at you own expense!, to discover any possible
chemical incompatabilities - short term and long.

Richard

General advice on these things:
GARTFM! (Get And Read...)
"cavelamb" wrote in message
k.net...
wrote:

I will not be coating the fairing compound with an additional layer of
unthickened epoxy resin. I will coat the fairing compound with epoxy
primer (specifically, 404/414 Epoxy Primkote that you probably have
mentioned in another post), and use it as a barrier to prevent water
from getting into the fairing compound. Therefore, I will not be using
the ScothBrite trick to minimize the chance of sanding through the thin
layer of epoxy resin. Instead, I will follow the instruction that I
have found in Interlux web site to prepare the surface.

Thanks anyway.

Jay Chan



Better, Jay, but a lot of guys suggest picking one system and staying with
it.
(Kinda like women?)

Otherwise, you are volunteering, at you own expense!, to discover any
possible
chemical incompatabilities - short term and long.

Richard

Lew Hodgett wrote:
wrote:
I will not be coating the fairing compound with an additional layer of
unthickened epoxy resin. I will coat the fairing compound with epoxy
primer (specifically, 404/414 Epoxy Primkote that you probably have
mentioned in another post), and use it as a barrier to prevent water
from getting into the fairing compound.

snip

Save yourself some trouble.

Pick a coating system then use their high build primer to seal the
fairing compound.

That is how the systems are engineered.

Lew

Something that I said might have misled you to believe that I was
choosing different products from different companies. Yes, I am
sticking with one system to finish the deck. This was the reason why I
will be using Interlux 404/414 Epoxy Primkote as the primer. And then
I will put on a two part polyurethanes (Interlux Perfection) over the
primer with flattening agent and non-skid additives (all from
Interlux). This is exactly what the painting guide in Interlux web
site recommends, and I am sticking to it (I don't know this well enough
to try to derivate from the painting guide). Thanks for the warning
though.

Jay Chan