I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called "Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a coat of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or (glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to seal it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one person here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run conservative and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine, like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for example, that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing Compound) and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best off only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does expand and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck. Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not 'quite' as tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products many times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for normal use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called "Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a coat of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

Seem like I was worrying about the wrong thing. I was worrying about
whether the light density fairing compound may not be able to withstand
foot tranffic when I should have worried about the fairing compound may
absorb and retain water. Thanks for the info.

This means I definitely should apply a coat of epoxy (not thickened)
after I have sanded the fairing compound flat. Seem like I should use
a roller instead of a brush to apply this coat of epoxy to avoid brush
mark. OK, I know what to do now. Thanks.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or (glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to seal it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one person here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run conservative and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine, like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for example, that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing Compound) and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best off only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does expand and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck. Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not 'quite' as tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products many times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for normal use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called "Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a coat of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

Don't use epoxy resin as a last prime. It will not impart much impact
resistance and sanding it flat will probably go through here&there.
Instead, sand the deck as you will and use a primer like INterlux 404/414 or
Awlgrip 545. Then paint.
Interlux publishes a very useful pamphlet on boat finishing. Get it.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Seem like I was worrying about the wrong thing. I was worrying about
whether the light density fairing compound may not be able to withstand
foot tranffic when I should have worried about the fairing compound may
absorb and retain water. Thanks for the info.

This means I definitely should apply a coat of epoxy (not thickened)
after I have sanded the fairing compound flat. Seem like I should use
a roller instead of a brush to apply this coat of epoxy to avoid brush
mark. OK, I know what to do now. Thanks.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or (glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to seal
it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one person
here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run conservative
and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine, like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for example,
that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing Compound)
and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best off only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does expand and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck. Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not 'quite' as
tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products many
times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for normal use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called "Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a coat
of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light
density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

No, I will not sand the thin coat of unthickened epoxy (that was the
reason why I said that I need to use a roller instead of a brush to
make sure the surface will be flat and not need to be sanded). And I
will be doing this to avoid the fairing compound from absorbing water.
I will not do this to improve the impact resistance because I got a
reply saying that the fairing compound (micoballoons) should be tough
enough to withstand normal foot traffic. I guess this should be OK to
use unthickened epoxy as the last coat before I paint it over with
non-skid paint. Moreover, I will paint it over with non-skid paint
that doesn't need to be perfectly smooth and flat anyway, right?

Jay Chan


Jim Conlin wrote:
Don't use epoxy resin as a last prime. It will not impart much impact
resistance and sanding it flat will probably go through here&there.
Instead, sand the deck as you will and use a primer like INterlux 404/414 or
Awlgrip 545. Then paint.
Interlux publishes a very useful pamphlet on boat finishing. Get it.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Seem like I was worrying about the wrong thing. I was worrying about
whether the light density fairing compound may not be able to withstand
foot tranffic when I should have worried about the fairing compound may
absorb and retain water. Thanks for the info.

This means I definitely should apply a coat of epoxy (not thickened)
after I have sanded the fairing compound flat. Seem like I should use
a roller instead of a brush to apply this coat of epoxy to avoid brush
mark. OK, I know what to do now. Thanks.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or (glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to seal
it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one person
here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run conservative
and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine, like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for example,
that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing Compound)
and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best off only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does expand and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck. Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not 'quite' as
tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products many
times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for normal use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called "Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a coat
of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light
density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

It won't be smooth enough to paint and without a sanding the adhesion of
paint is uncertain.
Either put on 2-3 coats and sand it or use an epoxy primer whoich goes on
much smoother.


wrote in message
oups.com...
No, I will not sand the thin coat of unthickened epoxy (that was the
reason why I said that I need to use a roller instead of a brush to
make sure the surface will be flat and not need to be sanded). And I
will be doing this to avoid the fairing compound from absorbing water.
I will not do this to improve the impact resistance because I got a
reply saying that the fairing compound (micoballoons) should be tough
enough to withstand normal foot traffic. I guess this should be OK to
use unthickened epoxy as the last coat before I paint it over with
non-skid paint. Moreover, I will paint it over with non-skid paint
that doesn't need to be perfectly smooth and flat anyway, right?

Jay Chan


Jim Conlin wrote:
Don't use epoxy resin as a last prime. It will not impart much impact
resistance and sanding it flat will probably go through here&there.
Instead, sand the deck as you will and use a primer like INterlux
404/414 or
Awlgrip 545. Then paint.
Interlux publishes a very useful pamphlet on boat finishing. Get it.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Seem like I was worrying about the wrong thing. I was worrying about
whether the light density fairing compound may not be able to
withstand
foot tranffic when I should have worried about the fairing compound
may
absorb and retain water. Thanks for the info.

This means I definitely should apply a coat of epoxy (not thickened)
after I have sanded the fairing compound flat. Seem like I should use
a roller instead of a brush to apply this coat of epoxy to avoid brush
mark. OK, I know what to do now. Thanks.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech
support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or (glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to
seal
it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one
person
here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run
conservative
and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine,
like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for example,
that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing
Compound)
and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best off
only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does expand
and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as
time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't
worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck.
Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not 'quite'
as
tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not
tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products many
times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for normal
use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called
"Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer
of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a
coat
of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light
density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle
normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is
not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the
faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

Jim,

Do you happen to know if the 404/414 Barrier Kote from Interlux provides a
good enough barrier between the epoxy and alkyd enamels? I'm getting close
to painting the outside of my boat (System Three epoxy) and need to decide
if I want the S-III primer under the 404/414 or not... I guess I should make
test panels and try it out, but I was just wondering if anyone had personal
experience with the 404/414 and alkyd enamels (known to not cure reliably on
regular epoxy ...some chemical reason I suppose.)

Brian D


"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
Don't use epoxy resin as a last prime. It will not impart much impact
resistance and sanding it flat will probably go through here&there.
Instead, sand the deck as you will and use a primer like INterlux 404/414
or
Awlgrip 545. Then paint.
Interlux publishes a very useful pamphlet on boat finishing. Get it.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Seem like I was worrying about the wrong thing. I was worrying about
whether the light density fairing compound may not be able to withstand
foot tranffic when I should have worried about the fairing compound may
absorb and retain water. Thanks for the info.

This means I definitely should apply a coat of epoxy (not thickened)
after I have sanded the fairing compound flat. Seem like I should use
a roller instead of a brush to apply this coat of epoxy to avoid brush
mark. OK, I know what to do now. Thanks.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or (glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to seal
it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one person
here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run
conservative
and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine, like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for example,
that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing Compound)
and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best off only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does expand
and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck. Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not 'quite' as
tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products many
times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for normal use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called "Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a coat
of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light
density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle
normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

Pick ONE manufacturer, whether Syetem Three, Interlux or whoever.
Get the instructions they publish on their system of products.
Read it and follow it.

"Brian D" wrote in message
...
Jim,

Do you happen to know if the 404/414 Barrier Kote from Interlux provides
a
good enough barrier between the epoxy and alkyd enamels? I'm getting
close
to painting the outside of my boat (System Three epoxy) and need to decide
if I want the S-III primer under the 404/414 or not... I guess I should
make
test panels and try it out, but I was just wondering if anyone had
personal
experience with the 404/414 and alkyd enamels (known to not cure reliably
on
regular epoxy ...some chemical reason I suppose.)

Brian D


"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
Don't use epoxy resin as a last prime. It will not impart much impact
resistance and sanding it flat will probably go through here&there.
Instead, sand the deck as you will and use a primer like INterlux
404/414
or
Awlgrip 545. Then paint.
Interlux publishes a very useful pamphlet on boat finishing. Get it.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Seem like I was worrying about the wrong thing. I was worrying about
whether the light density fairing compound may not be able to withstand
foot tranffic when I should have worried about the fairing compound may
absorb and retain water. Thanks for the info.

This means I definitely should apply a coat of epoxy (not thickened)
after I have sanded the fairing compound flat. Seem like I should use
a roller instead of a brush to apply this coat of epoxy to avoid brush
mark. OK, I know what to do now. Thanks.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech
support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or (glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to
seal
it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one
person
here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run
conservative
and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine, like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for example,
that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing
Compound)
and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best off
only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does expand
and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as
time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't
worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck.
Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not 'quite'
as
tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not
tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products many
times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for normal
use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called
"Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer
of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a
coat
of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light
density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle
normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is
not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the
faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan