It won't be smooth enough to paint and without a sanding the adhesion of
paint is uncertain.
Either put on 2-3 coats and sand it or use an epoxy primer whoich goes on
much smoother.


wrote in message
oups.com...
No, I will not sand the thin coat of unthickened epoxy (that was the
reason why I said that I need to use a roller instead of a brush to
make sure the surface will be flat and not need to be sanded). And I
will be doing this to avoid the fairing compound from absorbing water.
I will not do this to improve the impact resistance because I got a
reply saying that the fairing compound (micoballoons) should be tough
enough to withstand normal foot traffic. I guess this should be OK to
use unthickened epoxy as the last coat before I paint it over with
non-skid paint. Moreover, I will paint it over with non-skid paint
that doesn't need to be perfectly smooth and flat anyway, right?

Jay Chan


Jim Conlin wrote:
Don't use epoxy resin as a last prime. It will not impart much impact
resistance and sanding it flat will probably go through here&there.
Instead, sand the deck as you will and use a primer like INterlux
404/414 or
Awlgrip 545. Then paint.
Interlux publishes a very useful pamphlet on boat finishing. Get it.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Seem like I was worrying about the wrong thing. I was worrying about
whether the light density fairing compound may not be able to
withstand
foot tranffic when I should have worried about the fairing compound
may
absorb and retain water. Thanks for the info.

This means I definitely should apply a coat of epoxy (not thickened)
after I have sanded the fairing compound flat. Seem like I should use
a roller instead of a brush to apply this coat of epoxy to avoid brush
mark. OK, I know what to do now. Thanks.

Jay Chan


Brian D wrote:
The issue stated by System Three Epoxy when I called their tech
support
number is/was the ability of the (phenolic) microballoons or (glass)
microspheres to absorb water and to hang onto it. It's better to
seal
it up
with a coat of epoxy after applying it, noting that at least one
person
here
DID skip the seal coat and had good success. I tend to run
conservative
and
follow instructions however.

Also note that if the fairing that you are doing is pretty fine,
like
filling something the size of 80-grit sandpaper grooves for example,
that
you can use plastic minifibers from WEST (Ultralight Fairing
Compound)
and
it does NOT require a seal coat. And even then, you'd be best off
only
using this stuff under a light-colored top coat since it does expand
and
contract with temperature. Larger fills risk becoming visible as
time
passes by.

As far as durability of the microballoon-filled epoxy goes, don't
worry
about it. It's pretty tough stuff and is fine on a deck.
Microspheres
produce a finished product that's also tough, but maybe not 'quite'
as
tough
as what you get with microballoons. Keep in mind that I have not
tried
performing accurate hardness tests, but have used both products many
times.
I was surprised at how tough the fairing compounds were for normal
use.

Good luck,
Brian


wrote in message
oups.com...
I would like to ask a similar question as another thread called
"Epoxy
over fairing compound?". But he was asking about putting a layer
of
epoxy on the hull. I would like to ask whether I need to put a
coat
of
epoxy over the fairing compound (that is epoxy mixed with light
density
micoballoons) on a deck surface. I am asking this because I am
wondering whether the light density fairing compound can handle
normal
foot traffic. I would prefer not to do any extra work if this is
not
necessary.

By the way, I intend to put a layer of non-skid paint over the
faired
surface. I mention this just in case this makes any difference.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan