1" tape, covering a hull/deck seam on a surf ski. Epoxy resin.

Somebody suggested using wider tape, but the original stuff was 1" so I stayed
with that size.

Looks like it's going to go on ok except up at the duckbill/hammerhead bow where
there's a curve that it has to follow from center to edge. Think trying to
tape Donald Duck's bill closed by running a 1" strip from his left jaw around
the front and over to his right jaw - following the seam of the upper and lower
bills, but wrapping around top and bottom.

Maybe it will go on ok, maybe not..... But just in case...

Are there any ticks to get glass to adhere to a close radius outside curve?
--
PeteCresswell

Several tricks that might help:

Thicken the resin a bit with colloidal silica
Accept the help of gravity. Point the boat part nose-up.
Instead of selvege-edge tape, use cloth cut on the bias. It conforms better
to irregular bends .
Cover the wetted tape or cloth with peel ply (a nylon taffeta fabric). Cut
the fabric extra wide (6-8") and pull it taut across the joint with duct
tape on its dry edge. The peel ply can be peeled off the glass after the
resin has cured. In a pinch, nylon taffeta from the yard goods store will
probably work. Test first that it can be peeled off cured epoxy.
(This is iffy. do it only if all else has failed.) Coat the joint with
epoxy resin and let it kick to the sticky stage. Apply your cloth dry at
that point. Come back later and saturate the glass.


"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
...
1" tape, covering a hull/deck seam on a surf ski. Epoxy resin.

Somebody suggested using wider tape, but the original stuff was 1" so I
stayed
with that size.

Looks like it's going to go on ok except up at the duckbill/hammerhead bow
where
there's a curve that it has to follow from center to edge. Think trying
to
tape Donald Duck's bill closed by running a 1" strip from his left jaw
around
the front and over to his right jaw - following the seam of the upper and
lower
bills, but wrapping around top and bottom.

Maybe it will go on ok, maybe not..... But just in case...

Are there any ticks to get glass to adhere to a close radius outside
curve?
--
PeteCresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
1" tape, covering a hull/deck seam on a surf ski. Epoxy resin.

Somebody suggested using wider tape, but the original stuff was 1" so I stayed
with that size.

Looks like it's going to go on ok except up at the duckbill/hammerhead bow where
there's a curve that it has to follow from center to edge. Think trying to
tape Donald Duck's bill closed by running a 1" strip from his left jaw around
the front and over to his right jaw - following the seam of the upper and lower
bills, but wrapping around top and bottom.

Maybe it will go on ok, maybe not..... But just in case...

Are there any ticks to get glass to adhere to a close radius outside curve?

With epoxy, you can use clear packing tape over the saturated tape to
hold it in place. I do this all the time when repairing kayays.

Per Jim Conlin:
Cover the wetted tape or cloth with peel ply (a nylon taffeta fabric). Cut
the fabric extra wide (6-8") and pull it taut across the joint with duct
tape on its dry edge. The peel ply can be peeled off the glass after the
resin has cured. In a pinch, nylon taffeta from the yard goods store will
probably work. Test first that it can be peeled off cured epoxy.

I did an end run: used overlapping pieces of stretchy electrical tape instead.

Seems tb working pretty well.


How about this:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
- Tack one side of the fiberglass tape down by painting a thin coat of resin on
the hull's surface and then just smoothing the tape onto the resin - leaving the
other side of the tape sort of sticking out, not following the curve.

- Wait for the resin to go off.

- Tack the other side of the tape down the same way - except that it will want
to lift off the surface because of the pull from rounding the curve.

- To keep it from lifting off, apply a layer of masking tape - which will adhere
to the cloth enough to hold it in place.

- Wait for the second tacking batch to go off.

- Now we have mostly un-wetted fiberglass tape following the curve by virtue of
the two tacking layers - albeit a little contaminated on it's surface by the
masking tape's adhesive.

- Then brush in the final coat of resin.
-------------------------------------------------------------------]

Seems like the main question is whether or not the resin will wet the cloth and
bond sufficiently well in the areas that were tacked to the surface.

--
PeteCresswell