Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats.building
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The choice is your whether you melt the lead pellets or use epoxy. At the
end, I do not get anything out of it I myself as a responsible sailor can only suggest a procedure that is proven and known to be safe in shallow water, heavy seas, strong gales and ocean sailing. Conversely, if your boat is only used inland around the buoys in front of the yacht club or your favourite beach the safety priorities are not the same. wrote in message oups.com... Melting them to pour into the keel cavity requires great care, courage, forethought and 'guts', and may not buy you much. Please consider: (I assume this is an internally ballasted boat sitting upright on stands on-the-hard) You'll need to build strong support frame inside the hull to accommodate the (assume) propane burner and kettle directly over the cavity (or jury rig some type of piping to direct the flow). Lead melts at about 650 degrees. Are you *sure* that a large mass at this temperature will not distort/burn/melt/deform your hull material? Yes, you'll get a higher density if you pour the lead, but epoxy encapsulation may be *much* safer, and the ultimate performance difference (of the lead ballast sitting 2-5% higher) will likely be un-noticable. The stories of holed vessels loosing their lead shot ballast as it all drained out the bottom may be true, but an epoxy encapsulation would have absolutely prevented this apocryphal tale. Mike Worrall Los Angeles |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Metal Keel, fin, finish, repair, questions, questions | Boat Building | |||
Keel cooler cast into lead | Boat Building | |||
Lead available in Cinci Ohio area. | Boat Building | |||
I'm ba aaaack! | ASA | |||
Keel bolt material | Boat Building |