WEST minifibers (or is it microfibers) contains _cotton_ fiber and this
absorbs moisture too. You must seal the sandable epoxy mix as though it
were plain wood, e.g. 2 or 3 coats of plain epoxy, then primer and paint.
Note: When I fill holes, I usually let them stay bumped up a little until
after curing, then I use a SurForm or scraper (or both) as appropriate to
bring it down flush. Sanding seems to remove material around the hole more
than it removes the filler in the hole, so I don't sand. I then coat the
whole section a couple of times (usually 3) prior to painting. Works for
me.

--
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/catalog -- Discounted System Three
Resins products



"Steve" wrote in message
...

"BCC" wrote in message
...
West epoxy and their easy sand additive powder - and sanded them flat.


Are you sure that sanding addiative/filler was a West product?? It sure
sounds like Talc and if it is Talc, then it is absorbing moisture..

Talc is what is used in auto body filler.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 02:59:36 GMT, "Brian D"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Not the same solution as mine. But I agree with the idea that the
surrounds go down faster than the filler, in almost all cases.

When I fill holes, I usually let them stay bumped up a little until
after curing, then I use a SurForm or scraper (or both) as appropriate to
bring it down flush. Sanding seems to remove material around the hole more
than it removes the filler in the hole, so I don't sand. I then coat the
whole section a couple of times (usually 3) prior to painting. Works for
me.

************************************************** **
I went on a guided tour not long ago.The guide got
us lost. He was a non-compass mentor.........sorry
.........no I'm not.

You can see the results of my hole filling technique he

http://www.advantagecomposites.com/t...8-0869_img.jpg

This picture shows a bow section after installing a second layer of 1/4" ply
over the first, kind of like cold molding on a bigger scale. Lots of screw
holes. The fills are all very smooth and flush. I used epoxy/silica plus a
little microballoons for the filling mixture. In the past, I've tried
filling holes then using a putty knife to scrape it off flush while soft but
it seems to always leave a hollow over the hole so you have to do a second
pass. The second pass can sometimes _still_ have a hollow. The method of
filling and leaving it slightly overfilled followed by using a SurForm to
bring it flush after curing is faster and gives better results. Your
mileage may vary, but this is what works well for me.

--
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass -- My 22' Tolman Skiff project
http://www.advantagecomposites.com/catalog -- Discounted System Three
Resins products


..
"Old Nick" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 15 Apr 2004 02:59:36 GMT, "Brian D"
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Not the same solution as mine. But I agree with the idea that the
surrounds go down faster than the filler, in almost all cases.

When I fill holes, I usually let them stay bumped up a little until
after curing, then I use a SurForm or scraper (or both) as appropriate to
bring it down flush. Sanding seems to remove material around the hole
more
than it removes the filler in the hole, so I don't sand. I then coat the
whole section a couple of times (usually 3) prior to painting. Works for
me.

************************************************** **
I went on a guided tour not long ago.The guide got
us lost. He was a non-compass mentor.........sorry
........no I'm not.