dadiOH writes:

Teak being used for what?

You forgot, "being used for impressing your lubber friends". Unlike you
and me, they don't properly appreciate the weathered surface. Ya gotta oil
it for them.

On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 09:46:22 +0000, Roger Long wrote:

Maybe you can help with a question I asked here a while ago and never
got a good answer. My teak all has heavy coats of varnish that is now
chipped and cracking so it needs to come off. It's quite orange and
now I know why.

Questions:

Can I scrape it and use Decks Olje or similar oil successfully? I'd
rather put something on with a rag more often than get out masking
tape and brushes less often. (You use brushes for the first coats,
right?)

Actually you can just wipe it on with a rag. You keep doing it until the
wood won't take anymore, then wipe off any that didn't soak in. Nothing
could be easier.

If I help the process along with a stripper, will I have problems with
the Decks Olje?

No.

I ask because the teak I did scrape and revarnish didn't look like teak
because of varnish left in the grain. I don't want to remove enough
wood to get below that.

It's funny. I couldn't get straight answers to these questions in the
Wooden Boat Magazine forum either.

It's a religion to that crowd -- myth and dogma.

BTW I'm not compulsive about appearance. Our boat is like a very
attractive 60 year old woman. I just want the teak to look cared for;
not new.

Go ahead and strip, and use the Deks Olje. It's probably more tolerant
than anything else. Good stripper works very well, and most varnish comes
off easily anyway.

Matt O.

On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 07:03:49 -0700, Brian D wrote:

I also liked the Deks Olje varnish-like color and
the fact that it allowed the wood to keep its natural non-slip qualities
(unlike shiny hard varnish wet with spray). The Deks Olje wood stayed
non-slip even when wet.

I've noticed this too. This is because the Deks Olje is softer. I have
some Cetol on the swim platform steps and edge trim now, and
it's *a lot* slipperier than the DO was.

No affiliation. I just liked the product.

Me too.

Matt O.

Roger,
Just a question about removing old varnish: do you scrape before sanding?
My varnish work goes a lot quicker when I use a 90degree scraper to get most
of the old varnish off before I sand. I like varnishing almost as much as
painting so will anything to get it over with quicker.
Many only sand, and I don't mean to say you are one of those.
The guy in the next slip at the marina where I used to keep my boat was
sitting on his deck sanding his hand rails one day and I demonstrated the
use of a scraper, even sharpened it for him. He refused to use it and I came
to believe the real reason was sanding alone took a lot more time, and this
kept him out of the house!
MMC
"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
Maybe you can help with a question I asked here a while ago and never
got a good answer. My teak all has heavy coats of varnish that is now
chipped and cracking so it needs to come off. It's quite orange and
now I know why.

Questions:

Can I scrape it and use Decks Olje or similar oil successfully? I'd
rather put something on with a rag more often than get out masking
tape and brushes less often. (You use brushes for the first coats,
right?)

If I help the process along with a stripper, will I have problems with
the Decks Olje?

I ask because the teak I did scrape and revarnish didn't look like
teak because of varnish left in the grain. I don't want to remove
enough wood to get below that.

It's funny. I couldn't get straight answers to these questions in the
Wooden Boat Magazine forum either.

BTW I'm not compulsive about appearance. Our boat is like a very
attractive 60 year old woman. I just want the teak to look cared for;
not new.

--

Roger Long

"MMC" wrote

Roger,
Just a question about removing old varnish: do you scrape before
sanding?

About all I can tell you at this point is that I brush before
flossing. We just bought the boat last year and I averted my eyes all
season and pretended that I didn't see any varnish. Wait a minute.
There were some pieces of trim on the winch handle pockets that I
revarnished. I think I did scrape them but mostly sanded.

My wrist wears out fast. Sanding and painting is especially hard on
it. I'm sure hoping that fellow who said it was OK to use a stripper
that doesn't attack the gel coat was right. I'll probably use that
sparingly, then scrape, then sand, then varnish.

Actually, I'm leaning towards Deck Oje at this point. Wiping all the
teak down with a rag once a month seems a lot more pleasant and that
kind of motion doesn't bother me as much as brushing. I just took a
teak anchor roller "bowsprit" off and I'm going to make that my test
case.

--

Roger Long

On Fri, 07 Apr 2006 14:24:16 GMT, "MMC" wrote:

Just a question about removing old varnish: do you scrape before sanding?
My varnish work goes a lot quicker when I use a 90degree scraper to get most
of the old varnish off before I sand.

I hired a professional to do the varnish on my boat last year. His
technique was to use a heat gun with a wide bladed putty knife type
scraper, followed by sanding. I've subsequently tried it myself and
it goes fairly quickly.

In article ,
"Roger Long" wrote:

My wrist wears out fast. Sanding and painting is especially hard on
it. I'm sure hoping that fellow who said it was OK to use a stripper
that doesn't attack the gel coat was right. I'll probably use that
sparingly, then scrape, then sand, then varnish.

Just on the odd chance, try a maximum solution of TSP (the real stuff)
in hot water first. Works well as a light stripper, is fast, and doesn't
harm the glass. Heck, the two-part teak cleaner might just do the job.

When/if you strip, tape just as you would while varnishing, just to make
sure.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-a-Deux ('73 Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD)
Xan's Pages: http://members.dca.net/jerelull/X-Main.html
Our BVI FAQs (290+ pics) http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

There is a good article about using Tonkinois in this month's issue of
Good Old Boat. The author of the article sang its praises. The
pictures look nice too.

Know what you mean Roger. When I was not quite treating my body "like a
temple", (long runs in soft sand, tough PT and lifting), I didn't know about
the adjustments it would cause me to make later in life!
MMC
"Roger Long" wrote in message
...
"MMC" wrote

Roger,
Just a question about removing old varnish: do you scrape before
sanding?

About all I can tell you at this point is that I brush before
flossing. We just bought the boat last year and I averted my eyes all
season and pretended that I didn't see any varnish. Wait a minute.
There were some pieces of trim on the winch handle pockets that I
revarnished. I think I did scrape them but mostly sanded.

My wrist wears out fast. Sanding and painting is especially hard on
it. I'm sure hoping that fellow who said it was OK to use a stripper
that doesn't attack the gel coat was right. I'll probably use that
sparingly, then scrape, then sand, then varnish.

Actually, I'm leaning towards Deck Oje at this point. Wiping all the
teak down with a rag once a month seems a lot more pleasant and that
kind of motion doesn't bother me as much as brushing. I just took a
teak anchor roller "bowsprit" off and I'm going to make that my test
case.

--

Roger Long

Thanks Wayne, I'm always open to completeing a chore like varnishing
quicker!
MMC

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 07 Apr 2006 14:24:16 GMT, "MMC" wrote:

Just a question about removing old varnish: do you scrape before sanding?
My varnish work goes a lot quicker when I use a 90degree scraper to get
most
of the old varnish off before I sand.

I hired a professional to do the varnish on my boat last year. His
technique was to use a heat gun with a wide bladed putty knife type
scraper, followed by sanding. I've subsequently tried it myself and
it goes fairly quickly.