Most important is surface prep and sand blasting is the only way to do
this.. Trust me, I have worked with steel boats and ships all my adult life.
Sandblast "to near white" is the spec.

Then use an expoxy primer for steel. Follow the mfg instruction and if your
in a large port area, ask the vendor rep. to come and measure the mil
thickness to verify that you application is correct. ( A good paint vendor,
doesn't want his paint on a bad job and will go out of his way to make sure
it is done correctly.)

You will also have to pay attention to the humidity at the time you have the
blasting done and be sure you can get the primer on and cured before the
humidity gets too high. In the ship yard we would sometimes do the bulk of
the blasting regardless and then come back and do a sweep blast to knock off
the flash rust before painting. Mill scale is tuff to blast through but it
has protected the metal until now and saves you blasting time in the long
run.

If your considering blasting it yourself, you will need to purchase or rent
a large compressor. An ordinary shop unit won't be enough volume (regardless
of what the spec says). Your going be running it full-out for hours at a
time and you need your pressure to be constant. The cheap 40# pressure pot
blasters are ok for small areas but you will go through hoses and nozzles
like crazy.

If you can have the whole thing ready for a one shot deal, a commercial
blaster can do it in about 2 days. The major portion of the second day would
be for a final sweep and paint.

In So Cal. I would go with ProLine since they specialize in paint systems
for commercial and navy ships. Else where I use International paints
(Intelux is there retail level paint). If you can find someone with
wholesale connections you can save a lot by going directly to International
Paints.

Stay away from the exotic stuff like powder coats since they require more
equipment and controls to do a good job.. I haven't heard of any off shore
cruisers with this system.. Yet!

If you want a really durable finish, use Linear Polyurethane for you final
coat. However, for a steel hull I would try to stay away from (no need for)
the high gloss.. Use a low gloss because the high gloss will show ever seam
and frame in the hull. Even in hand layed fiberglass, the high gloss is not
your friend.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 09:43:49 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


Good info, thanks. I am in Florida, humidity in the summer might be a
concern. The sweep blast is a good idea!
The boat is 32ft long, double ender.. Any idea about cost for blasting
alone?

Gil.


Most important is surface prep and sand blasting is the only way to do
this.. Trust me, I have worked with steel boats and ships all my adult life.
Sandblast "to near white" is the spec.

Then use an expoxy primer for steel. Follow the mfg instruction and if your
in a large port area, ask the vendor rep. to come and measure the mil
thickness to verify that you application is correct. ( A good paint vendor,
doesn't want his paint on a bad job and will go out of his way to make sure
it is done correctly.)

You will also have to pay attention to the humidity at the time you have the
blasting done and be sure you can get the primer on and cured before the
humidity gets too high. In the ship yard we would sometimes do the bulk of
the blasting regardless and then come back and do a sweep blast to knock off
the flash rust before painting. Mill scale is tuff to blast through but it
has protected the metal until now and saves you blasting time in the long
run.

If your considering blasting it yourself, you will need to purchase or rent
a large compressor. An ordinary shop unit won't be enough volume (regardless
of what the spec says). Your going be running it full-out for hours at a
time and you need your pressure to be constant. The cheap 40# pressure pot
blasters are ok for small areas but you will go through hoses and nozzles
like crazy.

If you can have the whole thing ready for a one shot deal, a commercial
blaster can do it in about 2 days. The major portion of the second day would
be for a final sweep and paint.

In So Cal. I would go with ProLine since they specialize in paint systems
for commercial and navy ships. Else where I use International paints
(Intelux is there retail level paint). If you can find someone with
wholesale connections you can save a lot by going directly to International
Paints.

Stay away from the exotic stuff like powder coats since they require more
equipment and controls to do a good job.. I haven't heard of any off shore
cruisers with this system.. Yet!

If you want a really durable finish, use Linear Polyurethane for you final
coat. However, for a steel hull I would try to stay away from (no need for)
the high gloss.. Use a low gloss because the high gloss will show ever seam
and frame in the hull. Even in hand layed fiberglass, the high gloss is not
your friend.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

I have been out of the business for over 10 years and have no idea of the
cost in your area..

Best go down to the sandblast yard and talk to them.. If your lucky you may
find the right connection.. You want a yard that goes out and sand blast
bridges and structures. That way he will have the mobil equipment and dust
containment tarps, etc. Also find out if he is equipt to spray the primer
for you or if you should set up to spray the areas he has finished at the
end of his day. He can also recommend a paint vendor who will work with you
on the paint thickness, etc.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions