Best paint system for bare steel hull?
 

Hello,

What is the best system these days for bare steel?
I have Colvin's book and he mentions Amerlock 400,
that was in 96 though. what's new, what's best?

Thanks,

Gil.

Best paint system for bare steel hull?
 

Most important is surface prep and sand blasting is the only way to do
this.. Trust me, I have worked with steel boats and ships all my adult life.
Sandblast "to near white" is the spec.

Then use an expoxy primer for steel. Follow the mfg instruction and if your
in a large port area, ask the vendor rep. to come and measure the mil
thickness to verify that you application is correct. ( A good paint vendor,
doesn't want his paint on a bad job and will go out of his way to make sure
it is done correctly.)

You will also have to pay attention to the humidity at the time you have the
blasting done and be sure you can get the primer on and cured before the
humidity gets too high. In the ship yard we would sometimes do the bulk of
the blasting regardless and then come back and do a sweep blast to knock off
the flash rust before painting. Mill scale is tuff to blast through but it
has protected the metal until now and saves you blasting time in the long
run.

If your considering blasting it yourself, you will need to purchase or rent
a large compressor. An ordinary shop unit won't be enough volume (regardless
of what the spec says). Your going be running it full-out for hours at a
time and you need your pressure to be constant. The cheap 40# pressure pot
blasters are ok for small areas but you will go through hoses and nozzles
like crazy.

If you can have the whole thing ready for a one shot deal, a commercial
blaster can do it in about 2 days. The major portion of the second day would
be for a final sweep and paint.

In So Cal. I would go with ProLine since they specialize in paint systems
for commercial and navy ships. Else where I use International paints
(Intelux is there retail level paint). If you can find someone with
wholesale connections you can save a lot by going directly to International
Paints.

Stay away from the exotic stuff like powder coats since they require more
equipment and controls to do a good job.. I haven't heard of any off shore
cruisers with this system.. Yet!

If you want a really durable finish, use Linear Polyurethane for you final
coat. However, for a steel hull I would try to stay away from (no need for)
the high gloss.. Use a low gloss because the high gloss will show ever seam
and frame in the hull. Even in hand layed fiberglass, the high gloss is not
your friend.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Best paint system for bare steel hull?
 

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 16:38:46 GMT, (Gil G.)
wrote:

Hello,

What is the best system these days for bare steel?
I have Colvin's book and he mentions Amerlock 400,
that was in 96 though. what's new, what's best?

Thanks,

Gil.

Sand blast, immediately followed by hot galvanize Spray.

Well, you asked.

Brian W

Best paint system for bare steel hull?
 

On Mon, 29 Mar 2004 09:43:49 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


Good info, thanks. I am in Florida, humidity in the summer might be a
concern. The sweep blast is a good idea!
The boat is 32ft long, double ender.. Any idea about cost for blasting
alone?

Gil.


Most important is surface prep and sand blasting is the only way to do
this.. Trust me, I have worked with steel boats and ships all my adult life.
Sandblast "to near white" is the spec.

Then use an expoxy primer for steel. Follow the mfg instruction and if your
in a large port area, ask the vendor rep. to come and measure the mil
thickness to verify that you application is correct. ( A good paint vendor,
doesn't want his paint on a bad job and will go out of his way to make sure
it is done correctly.)

You will also have to pay attention to the humidity at the time you have the
blasting done and be sure you can get the primer on and cured before the
humidity gets too high. In the ship yard we would sometimes do the bulk of
the blasting regardless and then come back and do a sweep blast to knock off
the flash rust before painting. Mill scale is tuff to blast through but it
has protected the metal until now and saves you blasting time in the long
run.

If your considering blasting it yourself, you will need to purchase or rent
a large compressor. An ordinary shop unit won't be enough volume (regardless
of what the spec says). Your going be running it full-out for hours at a
time and you need your pressure to be constant. The cheap 40# pressure pot
blasters are ok for small areas but you will go through hoses and nozzles
like crazy.

If you can have the whole thing ready for a one shot deal, a commercial
blaster can do it in about 2 days. The major portion of the second day would
be for a final sweep and paint.

In So Cal. I would go with ProLine since they specialize in paint systems
for commercial and navy ships. Else where I use International paints
(Intelux is there retail level paint). If you can find someone with
wholesale connections you can save a lot by going directly to International
Paints.

Stay away from the exotic stuff like powder coats since they require more
equipment and controls to do a good job.. I haven't heard of any off shore
cruisers with this system.. Yet!

If you want a really durable finish, use Linear Polyurethane for you final
coat. However, for a steel hull I would try to stay away from (no need for)
the high gloss.. Use a low gloss because the high gloss will show ever seam
and frame in the hull. Even in hand layed fiberglass, the high gloss is not
your friend.


--
My opinion and experience. FWIW

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Best paint system for bare steel hull?
 

I have been out of the business for over 10 years and have no idea of the
cost in your area..

Best go down to the sandblast yard and talk to them.. If your lucky you may
find the right connection.. You want a yard that goes out and sand blast
bridges and structures. That way he will have the mobil equipment and dust
containment tarps, etc. Also find out if he is equipt to spray the primer
for you or if you should set up to spray the areas he has finished at the
end of his day. He can also recommend a paint vendor who will work with you
on the paint thickness, etc.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Best paint system for bare steel hull?
 

Gil G. wrote:
Hello,

What is the best system these days for bare steel?
I have Colvin's book and he mentions Amerlock 400,
that was in 96 though. what's new, what's best?

Thanks,

Gil.

I had a great experience with Hempel paints. The technical advisor that
talked to me very knowledgeable, they will suggest which paint to use
for every stage and part of the boat.

DP

Best paint system for bare steel hull?
 

Ameron Coatings are very highly regarded by a good number of
organisations. Have a look at www.metalboatsociety.com - lots of
discussion about painting steel vessels.
I am having a 22m steel replica luxemotor built in NL and despite my
suggestion to use Ameron Coatings, they are using
www.bernardoecenarro.com paints on the hull - a professional looking
matt black epoxy and De Ijssel coatings, www.doublecoat.nl, on the
decks and superstructure. Both are extremely hard wearing and still
look excellent on un-recoated 5 year old vessels. Preparation is the
key - including epoxy filling of all the weld seams - and the hull
will be in the paint shop for a month.

What is the best system these days for bare steel?
I have Colvin's book and he mentions Amerlock 400,
that was in 96 though. what's new, what's best?

Thanks,

Gil.

Best paint system for bare steel hull?
 

What is the best system these days for bare steel?
I have Colvin's book and he mentions Amerlock 400,
that was in 96 though. what's new, what's best?



Thanks,

Gil.




-I would think an MIO based primer with an 100 solids cycloaliphatic
epoxy topcoat. - then perhaps a 2 part aliphatic polyurethane for
appearance sake.

paul
progressive epoxy polymers, inc.

Best paint system for bare steel hull? (Colvin => Amerlock)
 

For painting a steel hull:
Tom Colvin in Feb. 2004 recommends Amerlock 400 with Rustoleum
Professional as a topcoat. (This is the Rustoleum that is sold in Walmart,
Home Deport, Lowes, etc .. @ aprox. $26/gal) The amerlock 400 he says to
sand, degrease with soap and water unless the oil/grease is so heavy to
require dangerous chemicals in which case go ahead but be careful. Use
phosphoric acid treatment (Ospho ect..) per label instuctions and then
Amerlock 400. Topsides: 2 coats and for Bottom: 3 coats.

We purchased a 1989 Colvin steel pinky schooner LOD:40' and he has been a
consultant on the fixup.

George Ray
s/v Kitty Hawk

Best paint system for bare steel hull? (Colvin => Amerlock)
 

I can't remember what it is called (try a welding wholesaler) but some years
ago I had a tool that was a cross between a cutting torch and a spray gun,
Zink powder was blown through the oxyacetylene flame and melted, it stuck on
the steel with a Finnish like sandpaper. It is the next best thing to
galvanising when the item to be protected won't fit in the metal finishers
tank. it should be applied immediately after gritblasting or how ever you
decide to clean the metal. A boat yard I did metal finishing work for hung a
piece of steel so treated down the harbour wall on string so that it was
covered by the tide for over two years with no sign of rust. if I were to be
painting a steel boat this treatment would be my first choice. It is much
tougher than any paint treatment and can be touched up in minuets should you
manage to scratch through to the metal. the only down side is that with its
rough Finish it takes a lot of paint to "smooth it over"
Stuart.

"colvin_schooner" wrote in message
lkaboutboats.com...
For painting a steel hull:
Tom Colvin in Feb. 2004 recommends Amerlock 400 with Rustoleum
Professional as a topcoat. (This is the Rustoleum that is sold in Walmart,
Home Deport, Lowes, etc .. @ aprox. $26/gal) The amerlock 400 he says to
sand, degrease with soap and water unless the oil/grease is so heavy to
require dangerous chemicals in which case go ahead but be careful. Use
phosphoric acid treatment (Ospho ect..) per label instuctions and then
Amerlock 400. Topsides: 2 coats and for Bottom: 3 coats.

We purchased a 1989 Colvin steel pinky schooner LOD:40' and he has been a
consultant on the fixup.

George Ray
s/v Kitty Hawk