Steam ?


"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
Start at the bottom of the ladder of solvents and escalate 'til someone
wins.
My progression is:
Mineral spirits (aka paint thinner, tar & oil remover)
Toluene (AKA goof-off)
Lacquer thinner
Acetone
dynamite or nitric acid (joke)


"MMC" wrote in message
...
I've got some old Lexan that still has the protective paper on it and
last
weekend used a piece for a science project with my daughter.
The project, a simple solar oven, would have taken us about 1.5 hours to
build, but when I broke out a piece of the Lexan, I had the worst time
getting the adhesive off that was holding the protective paper. This took
3
hours, experimenting with soap, vinager, kroll oil, even acetone (small
scrape- ruined), and I finally gave up and used a window scraper which
ruined the surface. Worked ok for the oven, but wouldn't want my ports or
companionway boards to look like that!
I've had this stuff sitting around, waiting for a project, for more than
10
years in Florida heat and humidity.
I'd like to be able to use the rest and need advice on getting the
paper/adhesive off.
Thanks, MMC

Plenty of options to try BEFORE I actually need to use this stuff again.
Never had any dynamite and I'm all out of C-4 so that option's a no-go.
Acetone instantly ruins the finish.
Thanks everyone.
MMC

"John Cassara" wrote in message
...
Steam ?


"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
Start at the bottom of the ladder of solvents and escalate 'til someone
wins.
My progression is:
Mineral spirits (aka paint thinner, tar & oil remover)
Toluene (AKA goof-off)
Lacquer thinner
Acetone
dynamite or nitric acid (joke)


"MMC" wrote in message
...
I've got some old Lexan that still has the protective paper on it and
last
weekend used a piece for a science project with my daughter.
The project, a simple solar oven, would have taken us about 1.5 hours
to
build, but when I broke out a piece of the Lexan, I had the worst time
getting the adhesive off that was holding the protective paper. This
took
3
hours, experimenting with soap, vinager, kroll oil, even acetone (small
scrape- ruined), and I finally gave up and used a window scraper which
ruined the surface. Worked ok for the oven, but wouldn't want my ports
or
companionway boards to look like that!
I've had this stuff sitting around, waiting for a project, for more
than
10
years in Florida heat and humidity.
I'd like to be able to use the rest and need advice on getting the
paper/adhesive off.
Thanks, MMC

"MMC" wrote in message
. ..
Plenty of options to try BEFORE I actually need to use this stuff again.
Never had any dynamite and I'm all out of C-4 so that option's a no-go.


Acetone instantly ruins the finish.
As will many of the 'tips' folks have suggested you 'try'.

This topic was covered a few months ago and the owner of Spectre Products
(who has been working Lexan for many years) posted "the best way to remove
the paper is with a heat gun".

So if you want to get the job done, use a heat gun. If you want to
experiment (and ruin the finish, make a mess, or start a fire) then use
chemicals.

bBob wrote:

Acetone instantly ruins the finish.
As will many of the 'tips' folks have suggested you 'try'.

Listen to bBob............
He has the right idea.

LEXAN CLEANING

The use of solvents which are not compatible with Lexan - polycarbonate
will result in the softening, crazing, and/or cracking of the plastic
part. This is especially true of polycarbonate lamps and mounting bases
which may be under stress in their normal applications. Polycarbonate
panels are resistant to some chemical and products non-resistant to
others. Resistance can be effected by the chemical concentration,
duration of exposure, degree of pressure and temperature at time of
contact.

SOLVENTS/CLEANERS COMPATIBLE WITH POLYCARBONATE:
Mild soap and water
Mineral Spirits
Mexane
VM and P Naphtha
Varsol No.2
#1 & #3 denatured alcohol
Freone TF and TE-35
Ethanol
10% Sol Bon Ami
Dirtex
2% Sol. Reg. Joy
Heptane
White Kerosene
Methyl, isopropyl and isobutyl alcohols
Lacryl PCL-2035 polycarbonate cleaner
Petroleum Ether/65 degrees C boiling point
Acetic Acid
Ammonium Chloride
Antimony Chloride
Borax in Water
Butane
Calcium Chloride
Calcium Hypochloride
Carbon Dioxide
Carbon Monoxide
Citric Acid - 10%
Copper Sulphate
Ethyl Alcohol - 95%
Ethylene Glycol
Formain - 10%
Hydrochloric Acid - 20%
Hydroflouric Acid - 5%
Mercury
Methane
Oxygen
Ozone
Sulphur
Water
Urea (You just might want to say **** on it......................)


SOLVENTS/CLEANERS NOT TO BE USED WITH POLYCARBONATE:
Acetone
Acrylonitrile
Ammonia
Amyl Acetate
Benzene
Bromine
Butyl Acetate
Caustic Soda
Chloroform
Dimethyl Formamide
Hydrochloric Acid-Conc.
Hydroflouric Acid-Conc.
Iodine
Methanol
Methyl Ethyl Ketone
Perchloroethylene
Styrene
Toluol
Sulphuric Acid-Conc.
Xylene
Cyclohexone Glycerine Sulphur Dioxide
Diesel Oil HeatingFuel Turpentine
Formic Acid Jet Fuel
Gasoline Perchloric Acid-Conc.

Another BOb

Thanks Another Bob!
Got to able to get somewhere with the goodies on your list. Hopefully
without guys in dark suits escorting me....
MMC
"Bob" wrote in message
ups.com...

bBob wrote:

Acetone instantly ruins the finish.
As will many of the 'tips' folks have suggested you 'try'.

Listen to bBob............
He has the right idea.

LEXAN CLEANING

The use of solvents which are not compatible with Lexan - polycarbonate
will result in the softening, crazing, and/or cracking of the plastic
part. This is especially true of polycarbonate lamps and mounting bases
which may be under stress in their normal applications. Polycarbonate
panels are resistant to some chemical and products non-resistant to
others. Resistance can be effected by the chemical concentration,
duration of exposure, degree of pressure and temperature at time of
contact.

SOLVENTS/CLEANERS COMPATIBLE WITH POLYCARBONATE:
Mild soap and water
Mineral Spirits
Mexane
VM and P Naphtha
Varsol No.2
#1 & #3 denatured alcohol
Freone TF and TE-35
Ethanol
10% Sol Bon Ami
Dirtex
2% Sol. Reg. Joy
Heptane
White Kerosene
Methyl, isopropyl and isobutyl alcohols
Lacryl PCL-2035 polycarbonate cleaner
Petroleum Ether/65 degrees C boiling point
Acetic Acid
Ammonium Chloride
Antimony Chloride
Borax in Water
Butane
Calcium Chloride
Calcium Hypochloride
Carbon Dioxide
Carbon Monoxide
Citric Acid - 10%
Copper Sulphate
Ethyl Alcohol - 95%
Ethylene Glycol
Formain - 10%
Hydrochloric Acid - 20%
Hydroflouric Acid - 5%
Mercury
Methane
Oxygen
Ozone
Sulphur
Water
Urea (You just might want to say **** on it......................)


SOLVENTS/CLEANERS NOT TO BE USED WITH POLYCARBONATE:
Acetone
Acrylonitrile
Ammonia
Amyl Acetate
Benzene
Bromine
Butyl Acetate
Caustic Soda
Chloroform
Dimethyl Formamide
Hydrochloric Acid-Conc.
Hydroflouric Acid-Conc.
Iodine
Methanol
Methyl Ethyl Ketone
Perchloroethylene
Styrene
Toluol
Sulphuric Acid-Conc.
Xylene
Cyclohexone Glycerine Sulphur Dioxide
Diesel Oil HeatingFuel Turpentine
Formic Acid Jet Fuel
Gasoline Perchloric Acid-Conc.

Another BOb

Tried the heat gun-didn't work and warped the Lexan. The adhesive is a hard
solid after all these years.
If "owner of Spectre Products (who has been working Lexan for many years)"
had a piece of THIS Lexan he'd be looking for another option also.
I've been using chemicals, in one form or another, all my life and haven't
burnt anything down yet.
MMC

"bBob" wrote in message
news:jOhTf.2241$hC.2215@trnddc08...

"MMC" wrote in message
. ..
Plenty of options to try BEFORE I actually need to use this stuff again.
Never had any dynamite and I'm all out of C-4 so that option's a no-go.


Acetone instantly ruins the finish.
As will many of the 'tips' folks have suggested you 'try'.

This topic was covered a few months ago and the owner of Spectre Products
(who has been working Lexan for many years) posted "the best way to remove
the paper is with a heat gun".

So if you want to get the job done, use a heat gun. If you want to
experiment (and ruin the finish, make a mess, or start a fire) then use
chemicals.