The issue with epoxy, as with any virtually waterproof coating, is that
moisture tends to migrate through the wood until it reaches the waterproof
barrier. This region tends (then) to carry more moisture and becomes a
possible rot risk.

If you are *not* going to seal it and keep it completely sealed, then I
would not use epoxy as your glue. Do a search on the web for resorcinol,
sold under the brand name of GluVit (among others), and see what you find.
The question I have is whether or not it bonds with teak well. Either way,
if not using epoxy, then I would also recommend mounting with hardware, not
gluing. You'll want structural support from gunnel to gunnel as a minimum
and then through-bolt with 316 stainless or silicon bronze or better. Make
it strong enough to stand on.

For making a strip-built pulpit without glue, then you'll have to build it
up strip by strip using countersunk boat screws. For these 'buried' screws,
use silicon bronze or better (see Jamestown Distributors online). Screws
should be offset back and forth as you go so they are not in alignment with
each other. This will distribute the load better. Left to my own devices,
I'd probably shoot resorcinol in there between the layers as I screw them
up, letting the screws be your clamp pressure. On the outside 2 strips,
countersink deeper then use a plug cutter to make plugs from your teak. You
can glue these in to hide the screw tops and then flush-cut with a Japanese
pull saw. When the whole stack is done, expect to at least router and sand.
May have to do some planing too, so start thicker and wider than your
intended final dimension. Use a low-angle block plane and keep it sharp.
The silica in teak takes the edge away quicker than with other woods. If
you're a clever guy and would like to do a fancy job, you can route with a
45-degree bit on the top corners of each strip of teak to dress it up a bit.
I know you can fill these grooves with black polysulfide to emulate a teak
deck, but I've never done it and suspect that it may be hard to do it
neatly. The grooves alone would look nice (make sure you clean glue out
nicely if you are using it.) When the pulpit is all done and right before
installing, then you can oil it in the traditional way ...soak it well where
it contacts the boat.

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"orbital" wrote in message
om...
I was planning on building a slot into the pulpit to accomodate a
roller. I may also mount a stainless plate on the bottom to protect
the bottom of the pulpit from the anchor being yanked up into it.

What is the issue with using epoxy if I do not seal the entire pulpit?
My intention was to most likely not seal it with urethane or epoxy,
but to keep it coated with teak oil.

Also, I have never heard of resorcinol before now. What is the
difference between this and epoxy for this type of use?

In terms of using or not using pegs, I guess I was concerned about the
pressure and weight of the anchor trying to pull the strips apart
vertically. I was thinking that screws or pegs would help keep the
pulpit together when these vertical forces are aplied unevenly to
particular strips making up the pulpit. Is just the glue up strong
enough to keep it all together?

Thanks!

Rob

If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested
using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too
far
off track:

- The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip.
If
the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you
can
get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much
if
anything to the structure.

- If you're going to seal the pulpit up, and it's not hard if you use an
integral anchor roller that takes the anchor abuse instead of the pulpit
itself (see any commercial version), then epoxy is fine. If the wood is
going to be exposed and stay that way, then I'd consider using a
different
solution (resorcinol glued teak? through-bolted teak? I don't know
...I'd
use epoxy as described).

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message
...
On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote:

Scotty, Thanks!

snip

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there
a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many
pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?


snip

Rob

snip

My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig
with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he
wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both
ends are for alignment.
In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top
edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak.
(If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill
the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.)

Mark E. Williams

Brian D wrote:

SNIP

Do a search on the web for resorcinol,
sold under the brand name of GluVit (among others),

SNIP

Gluvit is a filled epoxy.

Resorcinol is a two-part adhesive which, while quite waterproof, is a bit of a
pain to work with. It demands tight fits, high clamping pressure and moderate
temperature. It is dark red in color and its glue lines will be visible.