Jumping in here ...

If you recall, Scotty was the guy suggesting pegs. He also suggested
using epoxy. So, I want to say a couple of things before people get too far
off track:

- The pegs are for alignment. You only need a couple per side of strip. If
the pulpit is long and the strips non-flat, then go with three so you can
get better alignment while gluing. Once glued, the pegs don't add much if
anything to the structure.

- If you're going to seal the pulpit up, and it's not hard if you use an
integral anchor roller that takes the anchor abuse instead of the pulpit
itself (see any commercial version), then epoxy is fine. If the wood is
going to be exposed and stay that way, then I'd consider using a different
solution (resorcinol glued teak? through-bolted teak? I don't know ..I'd
use epoxy as described).

Brian

--
My boat project: http://www.advantagecomposites.com/tongass


"Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message
...
On 17 Dec 2003 19:53:52 -0800, (orbital) wrote:

Scotty, Thanks!

snip

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?


snip

Rob

snip

My nephew is a cabinet maker and he uses a strip of peg-board as a jig
with a depth-stop collar on the drill bit. He just marks the holes he
wants to use on the jig. Small strips of wood on one side and both
ends are for alignment.
In your project you could lay the guide strips at the front and top
edges of your pulpit pieces. Drill, and on to the next piece of teak.
(If you did all the right sides first then flip the pieces and drill
the left sides, you won't have to flip the jig between work pieces.)

Mark E. Williams