Scotty, Thanks!

This is exactly what I was looking for. This sounds relatively
straightforward. Even your ascii diagram of the opposing end grains
made sense. I assume from this point, I could cut the finished piece
as if it was a solid piece of wood to create any curves or shape I
want to add to the front of it.

Can you elaborate on the idea of pegging? I have an idea what you
mean, but am not sure exactly how this works. Do I make pegs from
dowel and drill corresponding sized holes into the strips? Is there a
technique for making sure they line up on the 2 strips? How many pegs
per strip should I use if the pulpit is to be 3 feet long? How deep
into the strips should I drill for the pegs?

Also, I would like to put a channel down the length of it to
accomodate a pair of wires for a nav light. I was thinking I could
route a channel on the face of 2 strips before glueing them up. Would
this affect the strength greatly?

Thanks again for all the info! Good luck with your leaky wall!

Rob



Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining
sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley.
I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get
planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want
plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top
and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product
you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a
multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch
strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite
each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or
another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made
butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense.
Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the
clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so
use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and
ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar
clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at
least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part
faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many
as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good
thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If
you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may
make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly
will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either
steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer,
I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in
steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such
an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement
wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com


To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for
a pulpit.

I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp
the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the
strips together.

Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring
in order to put the nav lights on it.

Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly
do you mean by "pulpit"?
Scotty





(orbital) wrote in message . com...
Hello,

I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit
for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help
me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Rob