Jim Conlin wrote in message ...


Scotty says: First off let me state, I have never built such a
structure, and do not have any bigger boats, so take my advice for
what you
pay...

I'd cross-bolt the assembly with bronze or stainless threaded rod.
It'll help with the glue-up, too.


I dunno, never liked that idea. Always felt I would need to make the
whole part thicker to make up for the hole running all the way
through. The beauty of such a lay-up it the longitudal (sp?) strength
and a hole all the way through puts a lot of hurt to that aspect of
the
structure. I like to use staggered dowel pins. (This all assumes
correst application and preparation for/with epoxy. If other adhesive
is to be used, disregard anything I say here.) I tend to over engineer
everything (you should see my picnic tables) but I would get a cheap
dowling jig or use a drill press and set a pattern of alternating
pins. I would start with the end piece and drill three holes on the
inside. Next piece would get three holes facing the first, and four on
the other side. The piece facing that would get 4 and three,
alternating so as to take up the structural deficiencies of the
dowels. I would use pre-made and scored hardwood dowels. I don't think
you need a shaft all the way through if you use epoxy. If he is
worried he could always key in a cross support across the bottom. For
a part this size, I would want a finished part of 7/4. He may run a
router up the bottom and lay in a conduit for wiring, and shape the
part any way he pleases after it is cured.

A few more staggered thoughts. In the ascii I "drew" below, the pieces
seem wider than tall, this is not going to be the case of course. I
would suggest 4/4 thickness planks, cut into 2 inch strips... Mostly
aesthetics here, I used to make furniture so take my word for it.
Also, when applying the clamps, stagger them too, one on top, one on
the bottom and so on, or you will have a smiley part when you are
done. I don't see why you could not run a 1/4 inch deep channel with a
router under the part for wires, no deeper unless you run it near the
edge. If I were going to run it up the middle, I might cut three of my
strips 1/4 inch thicker and leave the extra on the bottom. After
cutting in the channel, round the edges in a smooth curve to match the
bottom. Aft of the area where the part meets the boat, you could just
flatten it out and drill a hole in any direction to route the wires
out of there. I will try again with that ascii, here is how the part
will look from the front:
____________________________________________
| |
|______________ ___ _____________|
\_____|000|_____/
Scotty



Backyard Renegade wrote:

(orbital) wrote in message . com...
I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends
off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually
there is a roller installed through or on them.

Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to
build myself:

http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html

They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak.

Thanks!
Rob

Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining
sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley.
I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get
planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want
plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top
and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product
you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a
multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch
strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite
each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or
another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made
butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense.
Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the
clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so
use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and
ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar
clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at
least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part
faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many
as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good
thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If
you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may
make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly
will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either
steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer,
I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in
steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such
an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement
wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com


To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for
a pulpit.

I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp
the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the
strips together.

Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring
in order to put the nav lights on it.

Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly
do you mean by "pulpit"?
Scotty





(orbital) wrote in message . com...
Hello,

I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit
for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help
me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Rob

It was suggested to me originally to use stainless steel wood screws
countersunk into the strips to fasten them together. Is there a
benefit to using the hardwood dowels over screws? If screwing it up
was viable, I could use the dowelling technique for the most outside
pieces to give a finished look without plugs.

For the dowelling, how deep would you suggest I drill the holes for
the dowels if I am using 4/4 thickness strips? Also, what thickness
dowel would be appropriate given these dimensions. 2 inch thick
finished piece is about what I was shooting for.

For the wiring, I was hoping to run it inside the piece to avoid it
being visible from the outside. What I had in mind was routing a
channel on the opposing faces of 2 strips before laying them up
together. Each channel could be 1/8". when glued together, a 1/4 inch
channel exists down the center, with minimal cuts in any one piece. If
it is a structurally a concern, I could make the channel towards the
edge and then drill a hole accross very close to the front of the
piece. That way I would avoid the bulk of it.

I hope this makes sense.

This is what it would look like from the back with the channel going
up the left side.
_________________________________________
| | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | | | | | |
|___|___|___|___|___|___|___|___|___|___|


top view showiung the path of the wiring channel inside the center of
the piece:
___________________________________
/ \
/ __ \
/ light: / \ \
| --------------\__/ |
| | -------------- |
| || |
| || |
| || |
| || |
| || |
| || |
| || |


Thanks Again for all the advice! This is extremely helpfull!



Scotty says: First off let me state, I have never built such a
structure, and do not have any bigger boats, so take my advice for
what you
pay...

I'd cross-bolt the assembly with bronze or stainless threaded rod.
It'll help with the glue-up, too.


I dunno, never liked that idea. Always felt I would need to make the
whole part thicker to make up for the hole running all the way
through. The beauty of such a lay-up it the longitudal (sp?) strength
and a hole all the way through puts a lot of hurt to that aspect of
the
structure. I like to use staggered dowel pins. (This all assumes
correst application and preparation for/with epoxy. If other adhesive
is to be used, disregard anything I say here.) I tend to over engineer
everything (you should see my picnic tables) but I would get a cheap
dowling jig or use a drill press and set a pattern of alternating
pins. I would start with the end piece and drill three holes on the
inside. Next piece would get three holes facing the first, and four on
the other side. The piece facing that would get 4 and three,
alternating so as to take up the structural deficiencies of the
dowels. I would use pre-made and scored hardwood dowels. I don't think
you need a shaft all the way through if you use epoxy. If he is
worried he could always key in a cross support across the bottom. For
a part this size, I would want a finished part of 7/4. He may run a
router up the bottom and lay in a conduit for wiring, and shape the
part any way he pleases after it is cured.

A few more staggered thoughts. In the ascii I "drew" below, the pieces
seem wider than tall, this is not going to be the case of course. I
would suggest 4/4 thickness planks, cut into 2 inch strips... Mostly
aesthetics here, I used to make furniture so take my word for it.
Also, when applying the clamps, stagger them too, one on top, one on
the bottom and so on, or you will have a smiley part when you are
done. I don't see why you could not run a 1/4 inch deep channel with a
router under the part for wires, no deeper unless you run it near the
edge. If I were going to run it up the middle, I might cut three of my
strips 1/4 inch thicker and leave the extra on the bottom. After
cutting in the channel, round the edges in a smooth curve to match the
bottom. Aft of the area where the part meets the boat, you could just
flatten it out and drill a hole in any direction to route the wires
out of there. I will try again with that ascii, here is how the part
will look from the front:
____________________________________________
| |
|______________ ___ _____________|
\_____|000|_____/
Scotty



Backyard Renegade wrote:

(orbital) wrote in message . com...
I want to build an anchor platform that bolts to the bow and extends
off about 2 - 3 feet for safely deploying the anchor from. Usually
there is a roller installed through or on them.

Here is a company that is selling something similar to what I want to
build myself:

http://www.butlermarine.com/anchor%2...eakpulpit.html

They are usually constructed of layed up strips of teak.

Thanks!
Rob

Ahhh, I get it. Before I built boats, I built butcherblock dining
sets, counters, desks, etc, so this is right down my alley.
I would start by getting some 4 or 5 quarter (finished) material. Get
planks that are a little more than multiples of the thickness you want
plus saw curf, plus another 1/8 to leave room for finishing the top
and bottom later. For instance if wanted a 5 quarter finished product
you would look for boards where the width was a little more than a
multiple of 1 1/2 inches. Take your planks and cut out the 1 1/2 inch
strips and lay them out with the end grains direction turned opposite
each piece so the finished part will not warp in one direction or
another like this picture of the end grains of a correctly made
butcher block type table |////|\\\\|////| if that makes any sense.
Anyway, you may want to peg the parts to keep them from moving in the
clamps, these pegs are just for that and not necessarily structure so
use them sparingly timewise... When you have all the parts cut and
ready, get some epoxy and some cheap (relatively) pony type bar
clamps, available at home depot, get enough so you can put a clamp at
least every 9" to one foot. Using throw away brushes, slosh the part
faces with glue, and knock them together. When you have laid as many
as you wish or all, put some wax paper on the edges and some good
thick, straight planks on the outsides of the part and clamp it up. If
you don't use strong backing planks, use more clamps. Again, you may
make the part all at once, or break it up. The epoxy if used properly
will hold fine, especially if you peg it. As to the railing, either
steel which Glenn can address, or steam bent wood. For a first timer,
I might suggest looking at steel as there is some learning curve in
steambending wood, and we don't want to learn the hard way with such
an application. I am in the middle of fighting a leak in the basement
wall so I gotta go, Scotty from SmallBoats.com


To be more specific, I am looking for the proper technique for laying
up strips of teak in a way that will produce the strength required for
a pulpit.

I have been suggested that it is sufficient to just epoxy and clamp
the strips. I have also been told that I should screw and epox the
strips together.

Additionally, I would like to put a channel in the pulipit for wiring
in order to put the nav lights on it.

Well, it will not be the first time I sounded dumb, but what exactly
do you mean by "pulpit"?
Scotty





(orbital) wrote in message . com...
Hello,

I am looking into the option of custom building a teak anchor pulpit
for my 28 Cape Dory power boat. I was wondering if anyone could help
me with some insight into the proper technique for doing this.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Rob

(orbital) wrote in message . com...
It was suggested to me originally to use stainless steel wood screws
countersunk into the strips to fasten them together. Is there a
benefit to using the hardwood dowels over screws? If screwing it up
was viable, I could use the dowelling technique for the most outside
pieces to give a finished look without plugs.

I am still waiting to see if someone else has comments as to weather
pegs and epoxy are suitable for this, I still say epoxy will do the
trick if the part is mounted and supported properly. Again, if someone
out there knows different, please speak up so this guy does not get
real wet and come find me! I know someone suggested going all the way
through with rods, but this really has an effect on the strength of
the final part.

For the dowelling, how deep would you suggest I drill the holes for
the dowels if I am using 4/4 thickness strips? Also, what thickness
dowel would be appropriate given these dimensions. 2 inch thick
finished piece is about what I was shooting for.

I would use store bought, scored pegs so you do not have any glue
pressure buildup behind the pegs under pressure. You could drill
probably 7/8" into each piece and use 1 1/2" long by 3/8 thick
hardwood pegs. Remember, the holes are offset, so it is not like
drilling a hole all the way through the part.


For the wiring, I was hoping to run it inside the piece to avoid it
being visible from the outside. What I had in mind was routing a
channel on the opposing faces of 2 strips before laying them up
together. Each channel could be 1/8". when glued together, a 1/4 inch
channel exists down the center, with minimal cuts in any one piece. If
it is a structurally a concern, I could make the channel towards the
edge and then drill a hole accross very close to the front of the
piece. That way I would avoid the bulk of it.

I hope this makes sense.

It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full
thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the
middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado
another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires
and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with
the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in
mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you
have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way
would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires.
Scotty, recovering ascii junkie...

It was suggested to me originally to use stainless steel wood screws
countersunk into the strips to fasten them together. Is there a
benefit to using the hardwood dowels over screws? If screwing it up
was viable, I could use the dowelling technique for the most outside
pieces to give a finished look without plugs.

I am still waiting to see if someone else has comments as to weather
pegs and epoxy are suitable for this, I still say epoxy will do the
trick if the part is mounted and supported properly. Again, if someone
out there knows different, please speak up so this guy does not get
real wet and come find me! I know someone suggested going all the way
through with rods, but this really has an effect on the strength of
the final part.

Me too.

Another post proposed the posibility of using resorcinol instead of
epoxy. I have no idea what this is. He also suggested that no pegs
would be necessary, and that I could just use a good flat piece of
wood to ensure they clamp up straight. I an still worried that the
vertical pressures put on it could sheer the strips from each other if
it was just glued up. I definitely dont want to put a rod all the way
through.


For the dowelling, how deep would you suggest I drill the holes for
the dowels if I am using 4/4 thickness strips? Also, what thickness
dowel would be appropriate given these dimensions. 2 inch thick
finished piece is about what I was shooting for.

I would use store bought, scored pegs so you do not have any glue
pressure buildup behind the pegs under pressure. You could drill
probably 7/8" into each piece and use 1 1/2" long by 3/8 thick
hardwood pegs. Remember, the holes are offset, so it is not like
drilling a hole all the way through the part.

Isn't 7/8" is going to be real close to going all the way through 4/4?



For the wiring, I was hoping to run it inside the piece to avoid it
being visible from the outside. What I had in mind was routing a
channel on the opposing faces of 2 strips before laying them up
together. Each channel could be 1/8". when glued together, a 1/4 inch
channel exists down the center, with minimal cuts in any one piece. If
it is a structurally a concern, I could make the channel towards the
edge and then drill a hole accross very close to the front of the
piece. That way I would avoid the bulk of it.

I hope this makes sense.

It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full
thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the
middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado
another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires
and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with
the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in
mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you
have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way
would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires.
Scotty, recovering ascii junkie...

I plan on putting a slot in the middle for the anchor and rode to pass
through so i cant go straight up the middle. Can I use this method
and make an L shape to go up the side and than laterally to the
center?

Thanks!
Rob

(orbital) wrote in message . com...
SNIP
I am still waiting to see if someone else has comments as to weather
pegs and epoxy are suitable for this, I still say epoxy will do the
trick if the part is mounted and supported properly. Again, if someone
out there knows different, please speak up so this guy does not get
real wet and come find me! I know someone suggested going all the way
through with rods, but this really has an effect on the strength of
the final part.

Me too.

Another post proposed the posibility of using resorcinol instead of
epoxy. I have no idea what this is. He also suggested that no pegs
would be necessary, and that I could just use a good flat piece of
wood to ensure they clamp up straight. I an still worried that the
vertical pressures put on it could sheer the strips from each other if
it was just glued up. I definitely dont want to put a rod all the way
through.

Wood will "walk" so you will not have straight boards to work with. I
have made jigs to hold boards flat in the layup, but they must be
massive and depend on lot's of pressure. You can start to clamp and
bang them in place with a large mallet while tightening. But all in
all, having to build only one part, I would,and do, just use the
dowels method, it makes life a lot easier. As to going in 7/8, it's
all right. You are filling the void with wood, and staggering the pins
as I have noted earlier will eliminate any problems you might
encounter by drilling all the way through the part. And again I will
note that the pins are only for the layup, the epoxy is what will hold
the thing together and I still say it will do the trick. If you are
still nervous, put a small 3/4 by 1 inch or so batten laterally across
the bottom of the part, near the front.

For the dowelling, how deep would you suggest I drill the holes for
the dowels if I am using 4/4 thickness strips? Also, what thickness
dowel would be appropriate given these dimensions. 2 inch thick
finished piece is about what I was shooting for.

I would use store bought, scored pegs so you do not have any glue
pressure buildup behind the pegs under pressure. You could drill
probably 7/8" into each piece and use 1 1/2" long by 3/8 thick
hardwood pegs. Remember, the holes are offset, so it is not like
drilling a hole all the way through the part.

Isn't 7/8" is going to be real close to going all the way through 4/4?

You could use 1" dowels come to think of it, I just have 1 1/2" that I
use, and sometimes cut. If you use 1" dowels, drill your holes 5/8
deep.



For the wiring, I was hoping to run it inside the piece to avoid it
being visible from the outside. What I had in mind was routing a
channel on the opposing faces of 2 strips before laying them up
together. Each channel could be 1/8". when glued together, a 1/4 inch
channel exists down the center, with minimal cuts in any one piece. If
it is a structurally a concern, I could make the channel towards the
edge and then drill a hole accross very close to the front of the
piece. That way I would avoid the bulk of it.

I hope this makes sense.

It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full
thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the
middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado
another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires
and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with
the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in
mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you
have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way
would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires.
Scotty, recovering ascii junkie...

I plan on putting a slot in the middle for the anchor and rode to pass
through so i cant go straight up the middle. Can I use this method
and make an L shape to go up the side and than laterally to the
center?

Sure, just might be a little harder to cover it up, but with some
patience you can make it blend right in.

Puff Puff Puff, I got blisters on me fingers. Note to Rob: My phone is
on my website, I can call you back toll free if you want to speed this
up. I am here mon-sat, 10 am to 9pm est. We would just fill the group
in on the results later.
Scotty

Thanks!
Rob

It has been stated clearly here...but I would re-iterate it...If you use the
dowels method..be CERTAIN that you use the GROOVED dowels. You need the
groove to allow the excess glue a chance to get back out of the holes. I did
a project once, and used regular doweling material ( non-grooved) and
puzzled forever why I couldn't camp the material easily. Seems like
something was forcing it apart. It was the excess glue trapped in the bottom
of the glue holes!!!

RichG

I'm still convinced that cross-bolts are needed here. The several
descriptions in my boatbuilding books of the construction of bow planks all
specify cross-bolting. There will be times when this plank is very heavily
loaded, like when you run the boat into something large and immoveable and when
the boat is on the anchor/mooring in a storm. The Cape Dory 28 is too good a
boat to lose to half-baked 'improvements'.

Jamestown and others have SS and bronze threaded rod. I'd do maybe one 5/16"
cross-bolt per foot of plank length. Counterbore for the ends of the
cross-bolts and bung 'em. The rods will be a big help in aligning and clamping
the assembly. For appearance, use epoxy, not resorcinol. If securely bolted, a
non-impervious finish is OK. If not, moisture will gradually open the glue
joints.

If you insist and are expecting cross-grain strength from the dowels, don't use
the grooved ones. The groove significantly reduce the effective diameter of the
dowel. Instead, just plane a flat into the side of the dowel before cutting the
dowel up. That'll allow the excell glue and air to exit.

The geometry of anchor rollers is sometimes hard to figure out. I suggect that
you get the anchor and make a propotype plank with 2x construction lumber to see
if the anchor clears the stem by just enough.

Have you contacted the builder for his recommendation? Andy Vavelotis now owns
Robinhood Marine in Robinhood, ME.

Do it right,
Jim

RG wrote:

It has been stated clearly here...but I would re-iterate it...If you use the
dowels method..be CERTAIN that you use the GROOVED dowels. You need the
groove to allow the excess glue a chance to get back out of the holes. I did
a project once, and used regular doweling material ( non-grooved) and
puzzled forever why I couldn't camp the material easily. Seems like
something was forcing it apart. It was the excess glue trapped in the bottom
of the glue holes!!!

RichG

I have decided to completely forego the light on the tip of the
pulpit. It seems that it will add quite a bit of work to the project
regardless of the approach and there is some question as to how it
will affect the overall strength of the finished piece.

Instead, I will add sidelights to the flybridge. They will improve
the visibility in that position as well. It just means that now I
have another wiring project to get done this winter.

The other thing I am now contemplating is if I should forget about the
slot in the pulpit. I was going to use the slot so that the anchor was
stowed under the pulpit with the rode coming through the slot and into
the windlass. Now I am thinking of using a roller on the top of the
end of the pulpit so the anchor rolls of the front and stows up front.
Again, this will make the construction easier and keep the acnhor
further out from the stem of the boat.



It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full
thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the
middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado
another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires
and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with
the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in
mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you
have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way
would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires.
Scotty, recovering ascii junkie...

You want a closed slot or some other hardware to capture the rode at the
roller. Otherwise, any good breeze at anchor will pull your rode off the
end of the sprit and hang it on your pulpit rail or stachion. All
surfaces the rode may contact need to be smooth (and abrasion
resistant). Epoxy deteriorates in UV (sunlight); good tight seams may
mitigate this, but OTOH, epoxy likes fat seams. Hence you may want to
consider UV protection for your seams, or use some additive in the glue
to reduce UV problems.

I bolted together a bowsprit this way with epoxy; I use cetol on it to
protect it. However, I think 1-1/2" epoxy laminate without rods would be
strong enough if the glue-up was done right. Usually epoxy joints are
stronger than the wood. Your main issue with simple (proper) glue-up
would be delamination due to wood movement (wet/dry, hot/cold,
top/bottom). Email West Systems with the approximate specs for the
sprit, its roller assembly, and the attachment method on the boat. From
what I hear, they're quite helpful.

When drilling for "through-bolts", you want a pretty tight hole to
maximize lateral support from the rods. You can use a drill to drive the
rods in (couple clamping nuts on one end and/or a little dab of epoxy
under them). You can use the dowling jig to drill the rod holes - all
the way through each piece. You want the countersinks on the outside
pieces to be extra large with flat bottoms to accomadate washers. If you
drill these countersinks first before drilling the rod holes it'll be
easier to center them with the rod holes. You can use a cheap (sharp!)
paddle bit; a forester bit would be better if you have one. I used
polysulphide to fill the holes rather than bungs because I was using
1/2" rod with 7/8"OD washers and the resulting bungs would have been
over 1" - seemed a little flakey. Also, the nuts and washers were more
than 1/2" thick and I didn't want to drill the countersink deep enough
to accomadate both the nut and a thick bung. Also based on vast past
experience g I wasn't sure I wouldn't be back in there someday. The
poly "bungs" show, but not too much with the cetol coating.

If the anchor sprit gradually narrows at the forward end, you can build
the sprit "square", then cut the taper. Calculate how deep to drill your
countersinks based on how much the sprit narrows. Grease the rods
affected so you can remove them after glue-up and cut the taper into the
finished sprit - then reinstall the rods.

How you mount the sprit is also worth serious thought. Anchor forces can
get pretty large both vertically and horizontally in a blow, with the
force catelevered off the bow so it's potentially multiplied several
times at the point it's connected to the boat. You can reduce this issue
by making the "onboard" end of the sprit as long as feasible. However,
you also want to be aware that when you hit something large and immobile
with your sprit, _something_ will give - and you probably would rather
it not be the hull. You might mount the sprit with bolts on deck which
will leave relatively small holes if they rip out, or you can reinforce
the hull/deck to the point the the sprit will fail first. Designer type
people actually can calculate the fail points for materials, but that's
not my area.

Rufus


orbital wrote:
I have decided to completely forego the light on the tip of the
pulpit. It seems that it will add quite a bit of work to the project
regardless of the approach and there is some question as to how it
will affect the overall strength of the finished piece.

Instead, I will add sidelights to the flybridge. They will improve
the visibility in that position as well. It just means that now I
have another wiring project to get done this winter.

The other thing I am now contemplating is if I should forget about the
slot in the pulpit. I was going to use the slot so that the anchor was
stowed under the pulpit with the rode coming through the slot and into
the windlass. Now I am thinking of using a roller on the top of the
end of the pulpit so the anchor rolls of the front and stows up front.
Again, this will make the construction easier and keep the acnhor
further out from the stem of the boat.




It does. However, how about a compromise? You build the part full
thickness and then dado a 1" wide by say, 3/16" deep trough down the
middle, on the underside of the part. Centered in that trough, dado
another trough wide and deep enough for your wires. Set in the wires
and fasten a 3/16" by 1" "cover" into the initial trough, flush with
the bottom. It would be easier than the layup schedual you have in
mind for sure. I don't like the odds, clamping the parts the way you
have suggested, leaving a blind conduit in the part. I think my way
would be stronger too, as well as leaving access to the wires.
Scotty, recovering ascii junkie...

Oops. Used polyUrethane.

Rufus wrote:

.... I used
polysulphide to fill the holes rather than bungs because I was using
....