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#1
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For purty, I think you're going to have to paint. What the limits of the
painted area are depends on your esthetics. I have the impression that there are many paints suitable for high traffic areas. Porch & deck enamel?? Creative masking of the edges of the paint can make it look like something that was planned. If your existing non-skid is the sand-in-paint flavor, you can probably match the texture after a few tries. If it's a molded in pattern, then there is a scheme where you make a "mold" from an undamaged area and press it down into/on top of the fixing goop before it hardens. Seems like I've seen a write-up in one of the magazines recently for this technique. Roger http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm wrote in message ups.com... A small 2-square-feet area around an inspection hole on the deck of my fiberglass boat is kind of springy. I believe water has found its way through the flange of the inspection hole into the core, and I believe that the core has become rotten and has delaminated from the fiberglass skin. I am going over books to learn the right way to fix this problem. But I have a question that I don't know the answer. According to the hull/deck repair books from WEST SYSTEM and Don Casey, they both recommend using epoxy to glue the new core and the old fiberglass skin. This makes sense because epoxy is good for attaching dissimilar materials together. So far so good. Both books recommend grind down the edges of the fiberglass skin to create tapered edges, and then put fiberglass cloth and epoxy to link up the old fiberglass skins together with the fiberglass skin on the deck. I buy the idea of using epoxy to join the fiberglass skin. But I have a question on how to finish the surface. If we use epoxy to join the fiberglass skin, the cured epoxy is the outer surface before any finishing is put on top of it. According to Don Casey's book, gelcoat doesn't adhere well with epoxy. He suggested painting with non-skid additive or attaching non-skid overlay over the area to cover up the epoxy area. I am under the impression that paint is not good for high traffic area, right? And I don't know how good a non-skid overlay will look when it is placed on existing non-skid surface. I assume that the existing non-skid surface is made from gelcoat, and I would assume that putting gelcoat with non-skid additive over that area will be better compatible with the non-skid surface on the rest of the deck. Is painting with non-skid additive good enough for high traffic area? Can we sand the area and then spray a thin layer of gelcoat over the epoxy and then add non-skid additive onto the gelcoat using a shaker? What would you do to finish the area? Thanks in advance for any info. Jay Chan |
#2
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posted to rec.boats.building
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For purty, I think you're going to have to paint. What the limits of the
painted area are depends on your esthetics. I have the impression that there are many paints suitable for high traffic areas. Porch & deck enamel?? Creative masking of the edges of the paint can make it look like something that was planned. Good to know that some paint can withstand traffic. Honestly, I am not impressed with paint that people put on porch or deck. They eventually deteriorate after foot traffic especially near the stairway. Therefore, I try to avoid using paint. Hopefully, I can find some intermediate agent that I can put between the cured epoxy and the gelcoat (that I want to put on top of the cured epoxy), and somehow help them to bond together. If your existing non-skid is the sand-in-paint flavor, you can probably match the texture after a few tries. If it's a molded in pattern, then there is a scheme where you make a "mold" from an undamaged area and press it down into/on top of the fixing goop before it hardens. Seems like I've seen a write-up in one of the magazines recently for this technique. Not sure how the existing non-skid surface was created. I will try a couple methods to see which one comes close. Jay Chan |
#3
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posted to rec.boats.building
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We all deteriorate with traffic. You should have seen me after a few hours
in the Gary, IN, traffic on Thanksgiving eve a few years ago. Roger http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm wrote in message oups.com... Good to know that some paint can withstand traffic. Honestly, I am not impressed with paint that people put on porch or deck. They eventually deteriorate after foot traffic especially near the stairway. Therefore, I try to avoid using paint. Hopefully, I can find some intermediate agent that I can put between the cured epoxy and the gelcoat (that I want to put on top of the cured epoxy), and somehow help them to bond together. If your existing non-skid is the sand-in-paint flavor, you can probably match the texture after a few tries. If it's a molded in pattern, then there is a scheme where you make a "mold" from an undamaged area and press it down into/on top of the fixing goop before it hardens. Seems like I've seen a write-up in one of the magazines recently for this technique. Not sure how the existing non-skid surface was created. I will try a couple methods to see which one comes close. Jay Chan |
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