A small 2-square-feet area around an inspection hole on the deck of my
fiberglass boat is kind of springy. I believe water has found its way
through the flange of the inspection hole into the core, and I believe
that the core has become rotten and has delaminated from the fiberglass
skin. I am going over books to learn the right way to fix this
problem. But I have a question that I don't know the answer.

According to the hull/deck repair books from WEST SYSTEM and Don Casey,
they both recommend using epoxy to glue the new core and the old
fiberglass skin. This makes sense because epoxy is good for attaching
dissimilar materials together. So far so good. Both books recommend
grind down the edges of the fiberglass skin to create tapered edges,
and then put fiberglass cloth and epoxy to link up the old fiberglass
skins together with the fiberglass skin on the deck. I buy the idea of
using epoxy to join the fiberglass skin. But I have a question on how
to finish the surface.

If we use epoxy to join the fiberglass skin, the cured epoxy is the
outer surface before any finishing is put on top of it. According to
Don Casey's book, gelcoat doesn't adhere well with epoxy. He suggested
painting with non-skid additive or attaching non-skid overlay over the
area to cover up the epoxy area. I am under the impression that paint
is not good for high traffic area, right? And I don't know how good a
non-skid overlay will look when it is placed on existing non-skid
surface. I assume that the existing non-skid surface is made from
gelcoat, and I would assume that putting gelcoat with non-skid additive
over that area will be better compatible with the non-skid surface on
the rest of the deck.

Is painting with non-skid additive good enough for high traffic area?

Can we sand the area and then spray a thin layer of gelcoat over the
epoxy and then add non-skid additive onto the gelcoat using a shaker?

What would you do to finish the area?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

For purty, I think you're going to have to paint. What the limits of the
painted area are depends on your esthetics. I have the impression that
there are many paints suitable for high traffic areas. Porch & deck
enamel?? Creative masking of the edges of the paint can make it look like
something that was planned.

If your existing non-skid is the sand-in-paint flavor, you can probably
match the texture after a few tries. If it's a molded in pattern, then
there is a scheme where you make a "mold" from an undamaged area and press
it down into/on top of the fixing goop before it hardens. Seems like I've
seen a write-up in one of the magazines recently for this technique.

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

wrote in message
ups.com...
A small 2-square-feet area around an inspection hole on the deck of my
fiberglass boat is kind of springy. I believe water has found its way
through the flange of the inspection hole into the core, and I believe
that the core has become rotten and has delaminated from the fiberglass
skin. I am going over books to learn the right way to fix this
problem. But I have a question that I don't know the answer.

According to the hull/deck repair books from WEST SYSTEM and Don Casey,
they both recommend using epoxy to glue the new core and the old
fiberglass skin. This makes sense because epoxy is good for attaching
dissimilar materials together. So far so good. Both books recommend
grind down the edges of the fiberglass skin to create tapered edges,
and then put fiberglass cloth and epoxy to link up the old fiberglass
skins together with the fiberglass skin on the deck. I buy the idea of
using epoxy to join the fiberglass skin. But I have a question on how
to finish the surface.

If we use epoxy to join the fiberglass skin, the cured epoxy is the
outer surface before any finishing is put on top of it. According to
Don Casey's book, gelcoat doesn't adhere well with epoxy. He suggested
painting with non-skid additive or attaching non-skid overlay over the
area to cover up the epoxy area. I am under the impression that paint
is not good for high traffic area, right? And I don't know how good a
non-skid overlay will look when it is placed on existing non-skid
surface. I assume that the existing non-skid surface is made from
gelcoat, and I would assume that putting gelcoat with non-skid additive
over that area will be better compatible with the non-skid surface on
the rest of the deck.

Is painting with non-skid additive good enough for high traffic area?

Can we sand the area and then spray a thin layer of gelcoat over the
epoxy and then add non-skid additive onto the gelcoat using a shaker?

What would you do to finish the area?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

For purty, I think you're going to have to paint. What the limits of the
painted area are depends on your esthetics. I have the impression that
there are many paints suitable for high traffic areas. Porch & deck
enamel?? Creative masking of the edges of the paint can make it look like
something that was planned.

Good to know that some paint can withstand traffic. Honestly, I am not
impressed with paint that people put on porch or deck. They eventually
deteriorate after foot traffic especially near the stairway.
Therefore, I try to avoid using paint.

Hopefully, I can find some intermediate agent that I can put between
the cured epoxy and the gelcoat (that I want to put on top of the cured
epoxy), and somehow help them to bond together.

If your existing non-skid is the sand-in-paint flavor, you can probably
match the texture after a few tries. If it's a molded in pattern, then
there is a scheme where you make a "mold" from an undamaged area and press
it down into/on top of the fixing goop before it hardens. Seems like I've
seen a write-up in one of the magazines recently for this technique.

Not sure how the existing non-skid surface was created. I will try a
couple methods to see which one comes close.

Jay Chan

We all deteriorate with traffic. You should have seen me after a few hours
in the Gary, IN, traffic on Thanksgiving eve a few years ago.

Roger

http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm

wrote in message
oups.com...

Good to know that some paint can withstand traffic. Honestly, I am not
impressed with paint that people put on porch or deck. They eventually
deteriorate after foot traffic especially near the stairway.
Therefore, I try to avoid using paint.

Hopefully, I can find some intermediate agent that I can put between
the cured epoxy and the gelcoat (that I want to put on top of the cured
epoxy), and somehow help them to bond together.

If your existing non-skid is the sand-in-paint flavor, you can probably
match the texture after a few tries. If it's a molded in pattern, then
there is a scheme where you make a "mold" from an undamaged area and
press
it down into/on top of the fixing goop before it hardens. Seems like
I've
seen a write-up in one of the magazines recently for this technique.

Not sure how the existing non-skid surface was created. I will try a
couple methods to see which one comes close.

Jay Chan

You are supposed to do repairs like this from the underside. Not
breaking the outside skin.

So, what's to paint, except the INSIDE?

wrote:
A small 2-square-feet area around an inspection hole on the deck of my
fiberglass boat is kind of springy. I believe water has found its way
through the flange of the inspection hole into the core, and I believe
that the core has become rotten and has delaminated from the fiberglass
skin. I am going over books to learn the right way to fix this
problem. But I have a question that I don't know the answer.

According to the hull/deck repair books from WEST SYSTEM and Don Casey,
they both recommend using epoxy to glue the new core and the old
fiberglass skin. This makes sense because epoxy is good for attaching
dissimilar materials together. So far so good. Both books recommend
grind down the edges of the fiberglass skin to create tapered edges,
and then put fiberglass cloth and epoxy to link up the old fiberglass
skins together with the fiberglass skin on the deck. I buy the idea of
using epoxy to join the fiberglass skin. But I have a question on how
to finish the surface.

If we use epoxy to join the fiberglass skin, the cured epoxy is the
outer surface before any finishing is put on top of it. According to
Don Casey's book, gelcoat doesn't adhere well with epoxy. He suggested
painting with non-skid additive or attaching non-skid overlay over the
area to cover up the epoxy area. I am under the impression that paint
is not good for high traffic area, right? And I don't know how good a
non-skid overlay will look when it is placed on existing non-skid
surface. I assume that the existing non-skid surface is made from
gelcoat, and I would assume that putting gelcoat with non-skid additive
over that area will be better compatible with the non-skid surface on
the rest of the deck.

Is painting with non-skid additive good enough for high traffic area?

Can we sand the area and then spray a thin layer of gelcoat over the
epoxy and then add non-skid additive onto the gelcoat using a shaker?

What would you do to finish the area?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

Jim,
Working from the inside is just one alternative. If there is not a
great deal of working room, it is simply impractical. If it can be
done, the the original surface can be retained, but that is an esthetic
consideration. A good epoxy or LPU with walnut shell mixed in does a
fine job and lasts as well as most other non-slip surfaces.

Working from on top - gravity is on your side - nice to have one less
thing to fight.
Matt

Jim wrote:
You are supposed to do repairs like this from the underside. Not
breaking the outside skin.

So, what's to paint, except the INSIDE?

wrote:

A small 2-square-feet area around an inspection hole on the deck of my
fiberglass boat is kind of springy. I believe water has found its way
through the flange of the inspection hole into the core, and I believe
that the core has become rotten and has delaminated from the fiberglass
skin. I am going over books to learn the right way to fix this
problem. But I have a question that I don't know the answer.

According to the hull/deck repair books from WEST SYSTEM and Don Casey,
they both recommend using epoxy to glue the new core and the old
fiberglass skin. This makes sense because epoxy is good for attaching
dissimilar materials together. So far so good. Both books recommend
grind down the edges of the fiberglass skin to create tapered edges,
and then put fiberglass cloth and epoxy to link up the old fiberglass
skins together with the fiberglass skin on the deck. I buy the idea of
using epoxy to join the fiberglass skin. But I have a question on how
to finish the surface.

If we use epoxy to join the fiberglass skin, the cured epoxy is the
outer surface before any finishing is put on top of it. According to
Don Casey's book, gelcoat doesn't adhere well with epoxy. He suggested
painting with non-skid additive or attaching non-skid overlay over the
area to cover up the epoxy area. I am under the impression that paint
is not good for high traffic area, right? And I don't know how good a
non-skid overlay will look when it is placed on existing non-skid
surface. I assume that the existing non-skid surface is made from
gelcoat, and I would assume that putting gelcoat with non-skid additive
over that area will be better compatible with the non-skid surface on
the rest of the deck.

Is painting with non-skid additive good enough for high traffic area?

Can we sand the area and then spray a thin layer of gelcoat over the
epoxy and then add non-skid additive onto the gelcoat using a shaker?

What would you do to finish the area?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

Unfortunately for me there is no easy access to the underside. The
boat is a small 18-ft center console, and the space between the deck
and the structure below deck is only a couple inches. Therefore, I
will have to fix it from the top side.

Jay Chan

Jim wrote:
You are supposed to do repairs like this from the underside. Not
breaking the outside skin.

So, what's to paint, except the INSIDE?

wrote:
A small 2-square-feet area around an inspection hole on the deck of my
fiberglass boat is kind of springy. I believe water has found its way
through the flange of the inspection hole into the core, and I believe
that the core has become rotten and has delaminated from the fiberglass
skin. I am going over books to learn the right way to fix this
problem. But I have a question that I don't know the answer.

According to the hull/deck repair books from WEST SYSTEM and Don Casey,
they both recommend using epoxy to glue the new core and the old
fiberglass skin. This makes sense because epoxy is good for attaching
dissimilar materials together. So far so good. Both books recommend
grind down the edges of the fiberglass skin to create tapered edges,
and then put fiberglass cloth and epoxy to link up the old fiberglass
skins together with the fiberglass skin on the deck. I buy the idea of
using epoxy to join the fiberglass skin. But I have a question on how
to finish the surface.

If we use epoxy to join the fiberglass skin, the cured epoxy is the
outer surface before any finishing is put on top of it. According to
Don Casey's book, gelcoat doesn't adhere well with epoxy. He suggested
painting with non-skid additive or attaching non-skid overlay over the
area to cover up the epoxy area. I am under the impression that paint
is not good for high traffic area, right? And I don't know how good a
non-skid overlay will look when it is placed on existing non-skid
surface. I assume that the existing non-skid surface is made from
gelcoat, and I would assume that putting gelcoat with non-skid additive
over that area will be better compatible with the non-skid surface on
the rest of the deck.

Is painting with non-skid additive good enough for high traffic area?

Can we sand the area and then spray a thin layer of gelcoat over the
epoxy and then add non-skid additive onto the gelcoat using a shaker?

What would you do to finish the area?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

wrote in message
ups.com...
Unfortunately for me there is no easy access to the underside.

bidni khlopec!

mk5000

"When one can cause a
death without even knowing about it, that's gotta be marketable skill!
Now, where's Bin Laden? "--barb

wrote:

A small 2-square-feet area around an inspection hole on the deck of my
fiberglass boat is kind of springy. I believe water has found its way
through the flange of the inspection hole into the core, and I believe
that the core has become rotten and has delaminated from the fiberglass
skin. I am going over books to learn the right way to fix this
problem. But I have a question that I don't know the answer.

According to the hull/deck repair books from WEST SYSTEM and Don Casey,
they both recommend using epoxy to glue the new core and the old
fiberglass skin. This makes sense because epoxy is good for attaching
dissimilar materials together. So far so good. Both books recommend
grind down the edges of the fiberglass skin to create tapered edges,
and then put fiberglass cloth and epoxy to link up the old fiberglass
skins together with the fiberglass skin on the deck. I buy the idea of
using epoxy to join the fiberglass skin. But I have a question on how
to finish the surface.

If we use epoxy to join the fiberglass skin, the cured epoxy is the
outer surface before any finishing is put on top of it. According to
Don Casey's book, gelcoat doesn't adhere well with epoxy. He suggested
painting with non-skid additive or attaching non-skid overlay over the
area to cover up the epoxy area. I am under the impression that paint
is not good for high traffic area, right? And I don't know how good a
non-skid overlay will look when it is placed on existing non-skid
surface. I assume that the existing non-skid surface is made from
gelcoat, and I would assume that putting gelcoat with non-skid additive
over that area will be better compatible with the non-skid surface on
the rest of the deck.

Is painting with non-skid additive good enough for high traffic area?

Can we sand the area and then spray a thin layer of gelcoat over the
epoxy and then add non-skid additive onto the gelcoat using a shaker?

What would you do to finish the area?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan


I put the original top deck pieces back, using epoxy goo and
adjustable height guide screws under the top bits, into the new
core. Wipe of the excess with plasic baggies, possibly to re-use and
then with dampened acetone rags, pressing gently, and weight down
lightly to cure with poly bags of dirt. The poly doesn't stick.

Clean up the pattern with a spoon, then when hard, a dremel, and you
stand a chance of never noticing the scars, if you cut it off
sensibly with a thin dremel cutter wheel.

Spring will tell if, instead of whittling for a week, I should have
put down an overlay of glass, resin, poly plastic sheet, and
expanded metal grille to form antiskid. It's been two years now, and
I am not afraid to do the stbd side, in about 10 more, the same way.

Terry K

Terry Spragg wrote:
wrote:

A small 2-square-feet area around an inspection hole on the deck of my
fiberglass boat is kind of springy. I believe water has found its way
through the flange of the inspection hole into the core, and I believe
that the core has become rotten and has delaminated from the fiberglass
skin. I am going over books to learn the right way to fix this
problem. But I have a question that I don't know the answer.

According to the hull/deck repair books from WEST SYSTEM and Don Casey,
they both recommend using epoxy to glue the new core and the old
fiberglass skin. This makes sense because epoxy is good for attaching
dissimilar materials together. So far so good. Both books recommend
grind down the edges of the fiberglass skin to create tapered edges,
and then put fiberglass cloth and epoxy to link up the old fiberglass
skins together with the fiberglass skin on the deck. I buy the idea of
using epoxy to join the fiberglass skin. But I have a question on how
to finish the surface.

If we use epoxy to join the fiberglass skin, the cured epoxy is the
outer surface before any finishing is put on top of it. According to
Don Casey's book, gelcoat doesn't adhere well with epoxy. He suggested
painting with non-skid additive or attaching non-skid overlay over the
area to cover up the epoxy area. I am under the impression that paint
is not good for high traffic area, right? And I don't know how good a
non-skid overlay will look when it is placed on existing non-skid
surface. I assume that the existing non-skid surface is made from
gelcoat, and I would assume that putting gelcoat with non-skid additive
over that area will be better compatible with the non-skid surface on
the rest of the deck.

Is painting with non-skid additive good enough for high traffic area?

Can we sand the area and then spray a thin layer of gelcoat over the
epoxy and then add non-skid additive onto the gelcoat using a shaker?

What would you do to finish the area?

Thanks in advance for any info.

Jay Chan

I put the original top deck pieces back, using epoxy goo and
adjustable height guide screws under the top bits, into the new
core. Wipe of the excess with plasic baggies, possibly to re-use and
then with dampened acetone rags, pressing gently, and weight down
lightly to cure with poly bags of dirt. The poly doesn't stick.

Clean up the pattern with a spoon, then when hard, a dremel, and you
stand a chance of never noticing the scars, if you cut it off
sensibly with a thin dremel cutter wheel.

Spring will tell if, instead of whittling for a week, I should have
put down an overlay of glass, resin, poly plastic sheet, and
expanded metal grille to form antiskid. It's been two years now, and
I am not afraid to do the stbd side, in about 10 more, the same way.

Terry K

I am trying to understand what you are saying.

What do you mean by using "adjustable height guide screws under the top
bits, into the new core"? Do you mean using screws (and epoxy) to
attach the old fiberglass skin to the new core? Then you need to deal
with covering up the screw heads, right? What's the purpose of using
screws? Should we simply use epoxy alone instead?

When you said "Clean up the pattern with a spoon", I assume you mean
using a spoon to remove the excess epoxy that gets sequeezed out from
the joint, right?

What you said "..., a dremel, and you stand a chance of never noticing
the scars, if you cut it off sensibly with a thin dremel cutter wheel",
I assume you mean using a small Dremel power tool to cut out the excess
epoxy that gets sequeezed out from the joints and has become hardened.

I don't understand when you said:

"Spring will tell if, instead of whittling for a week,
I should have put down an overlay of glass, resin,
poly plastic sheet, and expanded metal grille to
form antiskid. It's been two years now, and I am
not afraid to do the stbd side, in about 10 more,
the same way."

I have a feeling that you are trying to say that your method should be
as good as another method, and the other method would take more steps
to get done. What I don't understand is that if you had already done
the repair ten years ago, you should have known the result by now. I
am wondering why you still need to wait for next spring to know the
result.

Jay Chan