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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
Hi, I have another shaft seal question: What type of seal could I use to seal a trolling motor shaft for use under higher pressure? I am thinking of diver propulsion, so it should hold up to 5 bar, or down to 150 ft depth. Thanks a lot, Chris |
#2
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 00:34:42 +0100, Chris wrote:
Hi, I have another shaft seal question: What type of seal could I use to seal a trolling motor shaft for use under higher pressure? I am thinking of diver propulsion, so it should hold up to 5 bar, or down to 150 ft depth. Thanks a lot, Chris Consult a seal dealer. The regular lip seals, effective though they are might be too fragile for this service. o rings in appropriately grooved housings can handle this pressure - they can be arranged to seal better under pressure, in fact. Brian W Altus OK |
#3
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
O-rings are not well suited to constant or high speed shaft rotation.. (by
high speed I mean motor shaft). I worked on the Navy deep submersable program and we overhauled all of this type of equipment.. There are seals available that are well suited for motor shafts. A vendor that specializes in high pressure pumps will have something for this job. BTW.. The best way to deal with the compression forces in electrical cables is to intentionally flood them with mineral oil in Tygone tubing. Just be sure you purge all the air pockets by applying a vacuum before sealing the ends. (old saying, "you can't compress a liquid"). This method works to the deepest ocean depth. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#4
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
How would a motor handle the increased turning resistance caused by the oil filling? Do you think a trolling motor would survive being oil filled? I was thinking about converting one into a diver propulsion vehicle, (DPV, basically a small torpedo that slowly tows a diver) because they are available much cheaper than DPVs. Are there any brands/Models you would recommend or warn against, and does anyone have ideas for such a conversion? I was thinking of housing lead batteries in a PVC tube (air filled) and mounting the oil filled or otherwise pressure proofed motor behind it. Thanks for your comments, Chris Steve wrote: O-rings are not well suited to constant or high speed shaft rotation.. (by high speed I mean motor shaft). I worked on the Navy deep submersable program and we overhauled all of this type of equipment.. There are seals available that are well suited for motor shafts. A vendor that specializes in high pressure pumps will have something for this job. BTW.. The best way to deal with the compression forces in electrical cables is to intentionally flood them with mineral oil in Tygone tubing. Just be sure you purge all the air pockets by applying a vacuum before sealing the ends. (old saying, "you can't compress a liquid"). This method works to the deepest ocean depth. -- My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
#5
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
Chris says:
snip I was thinking about converting one into a diver propulsion vehicle, (DPV, basically a small torpedo that slowly tows a diver) because they are available much cheaper than DPVs. snip By the time you buy all the parts, oil fill what needs to be oil filled, fabricate your casing, buy your high-pressure bearings, etc, and assemble the brute, you will have spent more than if you bought the finished product from an assembly-line with DPV stencilled on the side. Chances are the innards will be exactly what you are putting in yours, but with the economies of scale built into the pricing. HTH ;-) Steve Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm |
#6
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
Well, uh, reality check. Ok, this is the budget: Rough estimate was $200 for batteries and charger, $100 for Battery housing (large PVC tube or similar) I don't know what model of trolling motor I'd have to use, and the pressure proofing is the other unknown. I thought it would be doable, as they are already designed for submersion, the only possible problem at depth being the shaft seal. DPVs start at around $1000, $3500 for good ones. Do you think I would have to spend $700 on the trolling motor and shaft seals or oil filling? Thanks again, Chris Stephen Baker wrote: Chris says: snip I was thinking about converting one into a diver propulsion vehicle, (DPV, basically a small torpedo that slowly tows a diver) because they are available much cheaper than DPVs. snip By the time you buy all the parts, oil fill what needs to be oil filled, fabricate your casing, buy your high-pressure bearings, etc, and assemble the brute, you will have spent more than if you bought the finished product from an assembly-line with DPV stencilled on the side. Chances are the innards will be exactly what you are putting in yours, but with the economies of scale built into the pricing. HTH ;-) Steve Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm |
#7
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
Chris says:
uh, reality check. Ok, this is the budget: snip DPVs start at around $1000, $3500 for good ones. Do you think I would have to spend $700 on the trolling motor and shaft seals or oil filling? Ouch! I didn't think they were THAT expensive! Well, if nothing else, you've been and gone and checked... ;-) Steve |
#8
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
I like Rick's suggestion in the parallel thread. He suggested a compensating chamber for the motor, to keep the seal differential pressure low at any depth. You could implement it like this: Regular trolling motor. Low, low viscosity liquid. A hole in the motor case, for a tube and small bronze bellows, biassed to the closed position, and slightly "inflated " with light fluid. Another screw in the motor case to pressurize slightly with fluid. Seal the screw with an o-ring. put a guard cover around the bellows. How expensive could that be? Brian Whatcott Altus OK On Sat, 22 Nov 2003 22:27:59 +0100, Chris wrote: Well, uh, reality check. Ok, this is the budget: Rough estimate was $200 for batteries and charger, $100 for Battery housing (large PVC tube or similar) I don't know what model of trolling motor I'd have to use, and the pressure proofing is the other unknown. I thought it would be doable, as they are already designed for submersion, the only possible problem at depth being the shaft seal. DPVs start at around $1000, $3500 for good ones. Do you think I would have to spend $700 on the trolling motor and shaft seals or oil filling? Thanks again, Chris Stephen Baker wrote: Chris says: snip I was thinking about converting one into a diver propulsion vehicle, (DPV, basically a small torpedo that slowly tows a diver) because they are available much cheaper than DPVs. snip By the time you buy all the parts, oil fill what needs to be oil filled, fabricate your casing, buy your high-pressure bearings, etc, and assemble the brute, you will have spent more than if you bought the finished product from an assembly-line with DPV stencilled on the side. Chances are the innards will be exactly what you are putting in yours, but with the economies of scale built into the pricing. HTH ;-) Steve Stephen C. Baker - Yacht Designer http://members.aol.com/SailDesign/pr...cbweb/home.htm |
#9
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
Brian Whatcott wrote:
A hole in the motor case, for a tube and small bronze bellows, Don't even need that complication. The existing seal should be adequate for a compensated system. Drill and tap the casing for a tube fitting and attach a foot long piece of surgical tubing. Fill the motor with light biodegradable hydraulic oil, and top off through the tubing. Stick a rubber plug in the tubing end to seal it and it's done. Rick |
#10
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Trolling motor shaft seal for 150 ft depth
On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 03:43:07 GMT, Rick
wrote: Brian Whatcott wrote: A hole in the motor case, for a tube and small bronze bellows, Don't even need that complication. The existing seal should be adequate for a compensated system. Drill and tap the casing for a tube fitting and attach a foot long piece of surgical tubing. Fill the motor with light biodegradable hydraulic oil, and top off through the tubing. Stick a rubber plug in the tubing end to seal it and it's done. Rick Delightfully simple. Not sure about the long-term compatibility of latex and hydraulic oil though. Brian W |