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  #1   Report Post  
Peter Ward
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

Greetings all, I'm considering building a kit Stornaway Weekender
www.scruffie.com as a teethcutting exercise; my primary objective is
to get a handle on the bedrock principles of 'seaworthiness'.

From random reading I've formed the impression that the Bristol
Channel Pilot Cutter is the epitome of a seaworthy design. Colin
Archer designs seem to get the big tick also.

What I'm seeking is advice on the most 'seaworthy' yacht design
available for a vessel under 35'. Becuase of the apparent advantages
of heavy displacement & relative ease of fairing, I'm also considering
a ferro hull ...any comments/observations on the pros/cons would be
much appreciated.

I've foundy the following salty site quite useful in terms of Aussie
no-bull**** plain talking:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/coast...rocruising.htm
  #2   Report Post  
Jacques Mertens
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

Yacht design and especially boat building materials have progressed since
the designs you list. They may have been the best 100+ years ago but it's
like saying that the Ford model T is the best car ever built!
Try some books like "Seaworthiness" by Marchaj or check books by Dave Gerr.
It is undeniable that the boats who rcae aorund the world today are more
seaworth than a Colin Archer.
PS: a judgement about seaworthiness should not be based on fear of the sea
.. . .

--
Jacques
http://www.bateau.com

"Peter Ward" wrote in message
m...
From random reading I've formed the impression that the Bristol
Channel Pilot Cutter is the epitome of a seaworthy design. Colin
Archer designs seem to get the big tick also.



  #3   Report Post  
DSK
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

Sorry to wander so far off topic, this post isn't much about boat
building.

Peter Ward wrote:

Greetings all, I'm considering building a kit Stornaway Weekender
www.scruffie.com as a teethcutting exercise;


Cute boats. Much lighter than their appearance would seem to indicate.


my primary objective is
to get a handle on the bedrock principles of 'seaworthiness'.


The best 1 page primer on "seaworthiness" is an essay by Peter Duff (of
Edey & Duff, the builders of the Stone Horse among other great boats). He
sums it up thusly:
1- easy to handle
2- comfortable (which he explains differently and more sensibly than many
people imagine 'comfort')
3- water tight integrity & reserve bouyancy
4- speed in sailing performance under a wide variety of conditions
5- beauty

My own explanation, given the many many demonstrations of lengthy &
perilous voyages in wildly unsuitable craft, is that seaworthiness
consists of a great combination of skill and/or luck on the part of the
skipper. This skill includes the ability to prepare & equip a boat
rationally for a wide range of anticipated conditions. The luck includes
not being there when very bad things happen, although careful attention
to unobvious details in predicting such happenings is definitely a skill.





From random reading I've formed the impression that the Bristol
Channel Pilot Cutter is the epitome of a seaworthy design. Colin
Archer designs seem to get the big tick also.


While they are good boats for rough water sailing, and definitely can be
said to maintain a more comfortable motion in a seaway (which, when things
get *really* bad, ain't saying much), they are pre-1920s technology. While
I agree with Peter Duff when he says, "The sea hasn't changed much" it is
unwise to overlook the accomplishments of modern engineering & materials;
also there are hazards nowadays such as being run down by a freighter or
hitting a container, that the previous generation of old salts did not
have to face.

BTW one of the prime characteristics in a boats safety at sea is the
ability to make distance to windward in deteriorating conditions... modern
keels & rigs have a great advantage in this, which is one of the points I
mentioned earlier to not overlook.

Consider the design factors in the two boats named... both were intended
for rough water sailing, intended to stay on station & be maneuverable in
very bad conditions. They were not intended for long duration at sea, nor
for carrying heavy loads; both were given hull & rig characteristics
intended to the best for windward sailing ability given the technology of
the era. Colin Archer worked on techniques of construction as much as hull
& rig types, to get the strongest lightest hulls possible. Do these points
tell you something about what the same service would indicate today?





What I'm seeking is advice on the most 'seaworthy' yacht design
available for a vessel under 35'. Becuase of the apparent advantages
of heavy displacement & relative ease of fairing, I'm also considering
a ferro hull ...any comments/observations on the pros/cons would be
much appreciated.


The problem with ferrocement is that it has no way of verifying hull
integrity, and is prone to catastrophic rather than incremental failure.
The main advantage of ferrocement is that it's cheap. For a vessel
intended to take to sea, there are better ways to pinch pennies IMHO.




I've foundy the following salty site quite useful in terms of Aussie
no-bull**** plain talking:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/coast...rocruising.htm


Thanks for the link. Very interesting reading.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King


  #4   Report Post  
Jim Woodward
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

I mostly agree with Doug, but would put emphasis elsewhere.

Seaworthiness is largely relative to where you want to go and when. A boat
that would be perfectly fine in all conditions that you might meet on the
East Coast of the USA (except a hurricane, for which you would have plenty
of warning) would not be my first choice for doing a circumnav the wrong way
in the Southern Ocean. But to build and equip for the latter when all you
intend is the former is expensive and foolish. All boats are compromises,
and all factors, including seaworthiness must be weighted intelligently.

Speed is also a seaworthiness factor, as it gives you a better chance at
getting out of the way of storms. Your Colin Archer will not be as fast as
a modern design. Sayula II, a Swan 65, won the first Whitbread. She is
much faster, size for size, than a Colin Archer design, yet strong enough to
do a 180 in the Southern Ocean and come up with no significant damage.

Doug also touches on the question of comfort. IMHO, comfort is a major
seaworthiness factor. Unless you have a boat that will heave to and take
care of itself, and the sea room to do it, someone has to be sailing the
boat, which means that the crew has to be getting enough sleep and enough
food to stay able to do what they need to do.

As for ferro, I agree with Doug, but would add that a ferro boat is
essentially unsalable (it may also be unsailable, as they tend to be heavy).
While ferro can be cheap, why build in a material that no one wants to buy
in order to save maybe 5 or 10% of the cost of the whole project? You can
probably build in steel for very little more, and have a boat that you can
sell.

--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


..
"DSK" wrote in message
...
Sorry to wander so far off topic, this post isn't much about boat
building.

Peter Ward wrote:

Greetings all, I'm considering building a kit Stornaway Weekender
www.scruffie.com as a teethcutting exercise;


Cute boats. Much lighter than their appearance would seem to indicate.


my primary objective is
to get a handle on the bedrock principles of 'seaworthiness'.


The best 1 page primer on "seaworthiness" is an essay by Peter Duff (of
Edey & Duff, the builders of the Stone Horse among other great boats). He
sums it up thusly:
1- easy to handle
2- comfortable (which he explains differently and more sensibly than many
people imagine 'comfort')
3- water tight integrity & reserve bouyancy
4- speed in sailing performance under a wide variety of conditions
5- beauty

My own explanation, given the many many demonstrations of lengthy &
perilous voyages in wildly unsuitable craft, is that seaworthiness
consists of a great combination of skill and/or luck on the part of the
skipper. This skill includes the ability to prepare & equip a boat
rationally for a wide range of anticipated conditions. The luck includes
not being there when very bad things happen, although careful attention
to unobvious details in predicting such happenings is definitely a skill.





From random reading I've formed the impression that the Bristol
Channel Pilot Cutter is the epitome of a seaworthy design. Colin
Archer designs seem to get the big tick also.


While they are good boats for rough water sailing, and definitely can be
said to maintain a more comfortable motion in a seaway (which, when things
get *really* bad, ain't saying much), they are pre-1920s technology. While
I agree with Peter Duff when he says, "The sea hasn't changed much" it is
unwise to overlook the accomplishments of modern engineering & materials;
also there are hazards nowadays such as being run down by a freighter or
hitting a container, that the previous generation of old salts did not
have to face.

BTW one of the prime characteristics in a boats safety at sea is the
ability to make distance to windward in deteriorating conditions... modern
keels & rigs have a great advantage in this, which is one of the points I
mentioned earlier to not overlook.

Consider the design factors in the two boats named... both were intended
for rough water sailing, intended to stay on station & be maneuverable in
very bad conditions. They were not intended for long duration at sea, nor
for carrying heavy loads; both were given hull & rig characteristics
intended to the best for windward sailing ability given the technology of
the era. Colin Archer worked on techniques of construction as much as hull
& rig types, to get the strongest lightest hulls possible. Do these points
tell you something about what the same service would indicate today?





What I'm seeking is advice on the most 'seaworthy' yacht design
available for a vessel under 35'. Becuase of the apparent advantages
of heavy displacement & relative ease of fairing, I'm also considering
a ferro hull ...any comments/observations on the pros/cons would be
much appreciated.


The problem with ferrocement is that it has no way of verifying hull
integrity, and is prone to catastrophic rather than incremental failure.
The main advantage of ferrocement is that it's cheap. For a vessel
intended to take to sea, there are better ways to pinch pennies IMHO.




I've foundy the following salty site quite useful in terms of Aussie
no-bull**** plain talking:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/coast...rocruising.htm


Thanks for the link. Very interesting reading.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King




  #5   Report Post  
Jacques Mertens
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

Great post.
Thank you for pointing out those "forgotten factors" of seaworthiness: speed
and comfort.

--
Jacques
http://www.bateau.com


"Jim Woodward" jameslwoodward at attbi dot com wrote in message
...
I mostly agree with Doug, but would put emphasis elsewhere.

Seaworthiness is largely relative to where you want to go and when. A

boat
that would be perfectly fine in all conditions that you might meet on the
East Coast of the USA (except a hurricane, for which you would have plenty
of warning) would not be my first choice for doing a circumnav the wrong

way
in the Southern Ocean. But to build and equip for the latter when all you
intend is the former is expensive and foolish. All boats are compromises,
and all factors, including seaworthiness must be weighted intelligently.

Speed is also a seaworthiness factor, as it gives you a better chance at
getting out of the way of storms. Your Colin Archer will not be as fast

as
a modern design. Sayula II, a Swan 65, won the first Whitbread. She is
much faster, size for size, than a Colin Archer design, yet strong enough

to
do a 180 in the Southern Ocean and come up with no significant damage.

Doug also touches on the question of comfort. IMHO, comfort is a major
seaworthiness factor. Unless you have a boat that will heave to and take
care of itself, and the sea room to do it, someone has to be sailing the
boat, which means that the crew has to be getting enough sleep and enough
food to stay able to do what they need to do.

As for ferro, I agree with Doug, but would add that a ferro boat is
essentially unsalable (it may also be unsailable, as they tend to be

heavy).
While ferro can be cheap, why build in a material that no one wants to buy
in order to save maybe 5 or 10% of the cost of the whole project? You can
probably build in steel for very little more, and have a boat that you can
sell.

--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


.
"DSK" wrote in message
...
Sorry to wander so far off topic, this post isn't much about boat
building.

Peter Ward wrote:

Greetings all, I'm considering building a kit Stornaway Weekender
www.scruffie.com as a teethcutting exercise;


Cute boats. Much lighter than their appearance would seem to indicate.


my primary objective is
to get a handle on the bedrock principles of 'seaworthiness'.


The best 1 page primer on "seaworthiness" is an essay by Peter Duff (of
Edey & Duff, the builders of the Stone Horse among other great boats).

He
sums it up thusly:
1- easy to handle
2- comfortable (which he explains differently and more sensibly than

many
people imagine 'comfort')
3- water tight integrity & reserve bouyancy
4- speed in sailing performance under a wide variety of conditions
5- beauty

My own explanation, given the many many demonstrations of lengthy &
perilous voyages in wildly unsuitable craft, is that seaworthiness
consists of a great combination of skill and/or luck on the part of the
skipper. This skill includes the ability to prepare & equip a boat
rationally for a wide range of anticipated conditions. The luck includes
not being there when very bad things happen, although careful attention
to unobvious details in predicting such happenings is definitely a

skill.





From random reading I've formed the impression that the Bristol
Channel Pilot Cutter is the epitome of a seaworthy design. Colin
Archer designs seem to get the big tick also.


While they are good boats for rough water sailing, and definitely can be
said to maintain a more comfortable motion in a seaway (which, when

things
get *really* bad, ain't saying much), they are pre-1920s technology.

While
I agree with Peter Duff when he says, "The sea hasn't changed much" it

is
unwise to overlook the accomplishments of modern engineering &

materials;
also there are hazards nowadays such as being run down by a freighter or
hitting a container, that the previous generation of old salts did not
have to face.

BTW one of the prime characteristics in a boats safety at sea is the
ability to make distance to windward in deteriorating conditions...

modern
keels & rigs have a great advantage in this, which is one of the points

I
mentioned earlier to not overlook.

Consider the design factors in the two boats named... both were intended
for rough water sailing, intended to stay on station & be maneuverable

in
very bad conditions. They were not intended for long duration at sea,

nor
for carrying heavy loads; both were given hull & rig characteristics
intended to the best for windward sailing ability given the technology

of
the era. Colin Archer worked on techniques of construction as much as

hull
& rig types, to get the strongest lightest hulls possible. Do these

points
tell you something about what the same service would indicate today?





What I'm seeking is advice on the most 'seaworthy' yacht design
available for a vessel under 35'. Becuase of the apparent advantages
of heavy displacement & relative ease of fairing, I'm also considering
a ferro hull ...any comments/observations on the pros/cons would be
much appreciated.


The problem with ferrocement is that it has no way of verifying hull
integrity, and is prone to catastrophic rather than incremental failure.
The main advantage of ferrocement is that it's cheap. For a vessel
intended to take to sea, there are better ways to pinch pennies IMHO.




I've foundy the following salty site quite useful in terms of Aussie
no-bull**** plain talking:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/coast...rocruising.htm


Thanks for the link. Very interesting reading.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King








  #6   Report Post  
William R. Watt
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

define "seaworthiness"

I thought it meant a boat that would take care of itself in rough
conditions, not a boat that could perhaps outrace the weather. This
outracing the weather is only helpfull along the coast where, given
advance warning of deteriorating weather conditions over the radio, the
faster boat can run for cover. Its not much help mid ocean in a big
weather system.

The main indicator of seaworthiness is the displacement to length ratio.
Boats with a ratio over (I think) 300 are the most seaworthy. These are
ocean going cruisers. Because boats are sold by the pound they are
expensive. I know lighter materials can cost more per pound by they don't
have as many pounds. The heavy cruisers also have more room for
accomdation and storage and a better comfort factor. They can make good
time under all conditions but light winds.

There are books on cruising sailboats as distinct from racing and coastal
sailboats. One that I read recently is Danny Greene's "Cruising Sailboat
Kinetics" (1984).


--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned
  #7   Report Post  
Jim Woodward
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

Again, I point at Sayula II. Tough boat, but a whole lot faster than a
Colin Archer.

As for outracing the weather at sea, if I have a hurricane forecast in front
of me, with pretty good track guesses from the NHC, I'd rather have a boat
that was a modern, fast, tough, seaworthy design, rather than an old, slow,
tough, seaworthy design. Not extreme, but taking into account modern design
thinking.

For example, there's some evidence that a modern keel and skeg design is
less likely to "trip" on a wave and capsize, than the old full keel designs.
Certainly modern designs with the rudder way aft have more steering leverage
and therefore will steer better in extreme conditions than long keels with
attached rudder.

Swee****er (Swan 57) has a D/L of about 230. She certainly never gave us any
concerns on our circumnav and I would believe she is sufficiently seaworthy
for all "ordinary" purposes -- no Southern Ocean work, I think. A 230 D/L
does not mean "weak" as a simple glance around at the scantlings of a Swan
will show you.

As far as references go, my favorite single book is Desirable and
Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, The Technical Committee of
the Cruising Club of America, John Rousmaniere, Ed., W.W. Norton, 1987.
While written partly in response to Fastnet 1979, by an organization best
known for racing, the authors have 750,000 miles at sea in small boats among
them, and it is good reading for any cruiser planning to venture out of the
sight of land.

Tony Marchaj, cited earlier in this thread, has also written several books
with good information on the good, the bad, and the ugly in offshore
design.


--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


..
"William R. Watt" wrote in message
...
define "seaworthiness"

I thought it meant a boat that would take care of itself in rough
conditions, not a boat that could perhaps outrace the weather. This
outracing the weather is only helpfull along the coast where, given
advance warning of deteriorating weather conditions over the radio, the
faster boat can run for cover. Its not much help mid ocean in a big
weather system.

The main indicator of seaworthiness is the displacement to length ratio.
Boats with a ratio over (I think) 300 are the most seaworthy. These are
ocean going cruisers. Because boats are sold by the pound they are
expensive. I know lighter materials can cost more per pound by they don't
have as many pounds. The heavy cruisers also have more room for
accomdation and storage and a better comfort factor. They can make good
time under all conditions but light winds.

There are books on cruising sailboats as distinct from racing and coastal
sailboats. One that I read recently is Danny Greene's "Cruising Sailboat
Kinetics" (1984).


--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----
William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community

network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
warning: non-freenet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned



  #8   Report Post  
Peter Ward
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

DSK wrote in message ...
&
"Jim Woodward" jameslwoodward at attbi dot com wrote in message ...

Thanks both for the excellent advice clearly based on extensive briny
experience.

I guess I was thinking of seaworthiness in the fairly narrow sense of
being able to survive something like 'The Perfect Storm'; &
particularly the ability to quickly self-right in the event of
capsize. According to Czeslaw A. Marchaj
in 'Seaworthiness : The Forgotten Factor' the "point of vanishing
stability" et.al. of most modern yacht designs is woefully inadequate
- deficiencies he attributes to the pervasive influence of
International Offshore Rules & the 'floating gin-palace' ethos of the
charter-boat industry, on modern yacht design & construction. This
observation appears to have been borne-out empirically by the 1988
Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race http://www.radford-yacht.com/stablty1.html

As a natural pessimist, I want to build the 'ultimate-unsinkable'
craft, which will weather the worst that the sea can inflict;
however, I get the distinct impression leafing through all the myriad
yachting magazines, that most boats out there are little more than
flimsy eye-candy. Just another prettified escapist consumer commodity
designed more to part you from your hard-earned lucre, than to be
truly "worthy of the sea".

Yet on the other hand I continually read accounts of wildly improbable
craft -http://www.famoussmallboats.com/ - criss-crossing the Atlantic
& Pacific with apparent ease. All quite confusing really.
  #9   Report Post  
Jim Woodward
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

The Perfect Storm was in the North Atlantic in October -- in winter, in
weather terms. It's no accident that "Winter North Atlantic" has its own
loadline, and that it's the one that requires the most freeboard of all.
And, although both the book and the movie have obscured reality somewhat
(the movie much more than the book), it appears the Andrea Gail had a number
of seaworthiness problems.

If you choose your times and places with some intelligence -- stay out of
hurricane areas, the Winter North Atlantic, the Southern Ocean, then you're
very unlikely to face survival weather. Many circumnavigators will tell you
that they never saw serious weather on their entire trip -- our highest wind
speed was around 42 knots.

I, too, am a natural pessimist. People who go to sea should understand that
Mother Nature does not suffer fools lightly. But pessimism should not bring
paranoia. As I said earlier in this thread, designing and equipping a boat
for the worst possible weather is expensive and unnecessary unless you
really intend to go out at times and places where such weather is really an
issue. Your "ultimate-unsinkable craft, which will weather the worst that
the sea can inflict" is a wonderful thing to think about, but I wouldn't
want to sail it, as it would likely be slow, uncomfortable, and difficult
for its crew. I'd rather choose my times and places and stay away from
anything anywhere near "the worst the sea can inflict". I'm pretty sure
that's a realistic goal for all except masochists and thrill seekers.

As for the quality of production boats, there are production boats that I
wouldn't want to take out of sight of land and others that I would happy
with almost anywhere, although not at all times of year. You pay your money
and, by and large, you get what you've paid for. And, BTW, they're not hard
to tell apart at the boat shows -- if you see two boats about the same size
and weight and one has fittings -- turnbuckles, for example -- noticeably
heavier than the other, you can guess which one I'd rather be aboard.


--
Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


..
"Peter Ward" wrote in message
m...
DSK wrote in message

...
&
"Jim Woodward" jameslwoodward at attbi dot com wrote in message

...

Thanks both for the excellent advice clearly based on extensive briny
experience.

I guess I was thinking of seaworthiness in the fairly narrow sense of
being able to survive something like 'The Perfect Storm'; &
particularly the ability to quickly self-right in the event of
capsize. According to Czeslaw A. Marchaj
in 'Seaworthiness : The Forgotten Factor' the "point of vanishing
stability" et.al. of most modern yacht designs is woefully inadequate
- deficiencies he attributes to the pervasive influence of
International Offshore Rules & the 'floating gin-palace' ethos of the
charter-boat industry, on modern yacht design & construction. This
observation appears to have been borne-out empirically by the 1988
Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race http://www.radford-yacht.com/stablty1.html

As a natural pessimist, I want to build the 'ultimate-unsinkable'
craft, which will weather the worst that the sea can inflict;
however, I get the distinct impression leafing through all the myriad
yachting magazines, that most boats out there are little more than
flimsy eye-candy. Just another prettified escapist consumer commodity
designed more to part you from your hard-earned lucre, than to be
truly "worthy of the sea".

Yet on the other hand I continually read accounts of wildly improbable
craft -http://www.famoussmallboats.com/ - criss-crossing the Atlantic
& Pacific with apparent ease. All quite confusing really.



  #10   Report Post  
Rodney Myrvaagnes
 
Posts: n/a
Default Seaworthiness

On 9 Nov 2003 22:29:10 -0800, (Peter Ward) wrote:

Greetings all, I'm considering building a kit Stornaway Weekender
www.scruffie.com as a teethcutting exercise; my primary objective is
to get a handle on the bedrock principles of 'seaworthiness'.

From random reading I've formed the impression that the Bristol
Channel Pilot Cutter is the epitome of a seaworthy design. Colin
Archer designs seem to get the big tick also.

What I'm seeking is advice on the most 'seaworthy' yacht design
available for a vessel under 35'. Becuase of the apparent advantages
of heavy displacement & relative ease of fairing, I'm also considering
a ferro hull ...any comments/observations on the pros/cons would be
much appreciated.

I've foundy the following salty site quite useful in terms of Aussie
no-bull**** plain talking:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/coast...rocruising.htm



The most bedrock principle is the need for a capable crew. An archaic
design may make you feel salty, but that isn't the same thing.



Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC

Let's Put the XXX back in Xmas
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