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Cutting scarfs
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#2
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Cutting scarfs
I agree that both are equally likely. Both likelihoods are about zero.
"Brian Nystrom" wrote in message news:%D2bf.233$SV1.39@trndny01... wrote: On Thu, 03 Nov 2005 14:32:49 GMT, Brian Nystrom wrote: I don't think anyone is disputing the utility of a belt sander and I wouldn't be without one, but it's definitely not the best tool for making scarfs. Brian, you can't blow out the sanded area with a high pressure air gun? I can't imagine ANY sand or grit being left in a sanded area after a thorough blasting with an air gun using 100+ psi. Actually, you're as likely to blow grit INTO the pores in the wood as out of them. |
#3
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Cutting scarfs
Here's a free opinion (and I've made a lot of scarfs ...never a failure
either); - I prefer cut pores, not pores sanded and smooshed flat. Use of a circular saw attachment (followed by a low-angle block plane finish) or a power hand plane is what I do in my shop. I want the epoxy to suck as deeply in the wood as possible, and judging by how many coats it takes to keep the cut edges looking wet (3 coats, sometimes a 4th), I'd say that the epoxy is going SOMEWHERE where it's doing some good for the strength of the joint. Right into the pores. - I vacuum scarf joints with a ShopVac prior to gluing. Then I wipe down with a damp hand towel and let it dry for 20 minutes. Then I pre-wet with 3 or 4 coats of clear epoxy, then glue it up with a mix appropriate to the task ...straight silica thickener, or silica plus milled glass fiber. Just my 2-bits. When it comes to scarfing, there are a lot of ways to skin the cat. I've heard of others having scarfs pop open when bending wood around a boat, and wonder how many scarfs 'barely held' on others. That's why I'm careful. Brian D "Brian Nystrom" wrote in message news:%D2bf.233$SV1.39@trndny01... wrote: On Thu, 03 Nov 2005 14:32:49 GMT, Brian Nystrom wrote: I don't think anyone is disputing the utility of a belt sander and I wouldn't be without one, but it's definitely not the best tool for making scarfs. Brian, you can't blow out the sanded area with a high pressure air gun? I can't imagine ANY sand or grit being left in a sanded area after a thorough blasting with an air gun using 100+ psi. Actually, you're as likely to blow grit INTO the pores in the wood as out of them. |
#4
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Cutting scarfs
Brian D wrote:
Here's a free opinion (and I've made a lot of scarfs ...never a failure either); - I prefer cut pores, not pores sanded and smooshed flat. Use of a circular saw attachment (followed by a low-angle block plane finish) or a power hand plane is what I do in my shop. I want the epoxy to suck as deeply in the wood as possible, and judging by how many coats it takes to keep the cut edges looking wet (3 coats, sometimes a 4th), I'd say that the epoxy is going SOMEWHERE where it's doing some good for the strength of the joint. Right into the pores. - I vacuum scarf joints with a ShopVac prior to gluing. Then I wipe down with a damp hand towel and let it dry for 20 minutes. Then I pre-wet with 3 or 4 coats of clear epoxy, then glue it up with a mix appropriate to the task ...straight silica thickener, or silica plus milled glass fiber. Just my 2-bits. When it comes to scarfing, there are a lot of ways to skin the cat. I've heard of others having scarfs pop open when bending wood around a boat, and wonder how many scarfs 'barely held' on others. That's why I'm careful. Brian D That sounds like a very sensible approach to scarfing. |
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