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Ervin Charles
 
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Default Repairing a daggerboard

You can buy a rather large syringe (for horses) at most pet supply stores
and some hardware stores for a couple of bucks. I've used these over the
years to inject Epoxy or woodglue into tight spots. Works great but with
Epoxy it's usually a one use tool. I'd drill the ends to stop the crack from
running as previously suggested and then fill as much of the crack as
possible with Epoxy and clamp it with as many clamps as you can get on it.
Might want to put wax paper under the clamps so they don't become a
permanent part of the daggerboard ;-). Clean up the squeezed out Epoxy with
acetone before it dries.
Charles


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William R. Watt
 
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Default Repairing a daggerboard

"Ervin Charles" ) writes:

..... and clamp it with as many clamps as you can get on it.
Might want to put wax paper under the clamps so they don't become a
permanent part of the daggerboard ;-). Clean up the squeezed out Epoxy with
acetone before it dries.


I forgot about clamps, but for this job I'd just use rope around the
daggerboard. It doesn't have to be real tight because all you're doing is
holding the edges together until the glue sets. If you tape the wood with
cheap cellophane or masking tape before working with the glue it will not
get on the wood and will peal off with the tape. You can wrap the whole
daggerboard except for the split in plastic and be sure of not getting any
glue on the wood. Whenever using plastic with printing on one side make
sure that side is not next to the wood or you could get the print embedded
in the glue.

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Wade Lippman
 
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Default Repairing a daggerboard

I forgot about clamps, but for this job I'd just use rope around the
daggerboard. It doesn't have to be real tight because all you're doing is
holding the edges together until the glue sets.


There is no gap at all; I am more concerned that the epoxy can't creep well
enough; but prying it apart would certainly expand the crack.

Thanks all for your help.


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