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Doug,
I'm going past what you requested and I hope I'm not getting too much in your business, but I would like to offer a bit of un-asked-for advice. I would *strongly suggest* that right now you do the *absolute minimum* rework that will allow your boat to get back in the water safely. Do this even if it means that later you'll have to tear out all that to get it "done right". Here is the reason: there have been many, many otherwise savable boats that have died because an enthusistic owner kept finding more and more things that needed rework or repair during a teardown, especially on a newly purchaseed boat. If you use the boat for a season or more, you will likely become attached to it so much that you'll not lose enthusiasm if the later rework or restoration consumes years. However, if you get into a boat that you haven't used, and find more and more that "should be replaced while you've got it apart", then it is easy to become overwhelmed and just lket the project languish until there isn't anything left worth saving except the hull number. I've done this on a boat myself, so I know whereof I speak. I know a fellow who has done this to at least 6 otherwise repairable Centuries and Chris Crafts. It is so very easy to get into this frame of mind. Now, if you have rot at the junction of the transom and the hull, or in the wood that supports the power train or steering, then it must be fixed; but it you find more hull and stringer rot, and it is stuff that can be temporariuly repaired with epoxy or sisters, do it the easy way for now and get some use and enjoyment from the boat before you "do it right". Just friendly suggestions from someone who loves these old craft :-) Cheers/The Fader "LABOR SVGIT" |
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