"mac" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

"William R. Watt" wrote in message
...

with wood you can always take more off, but you can't put it
back on.

A carpenter is a whittler who knows when to quit.

Ed

a "journeyman" is a guy who knows how to fix his fux ups.

if wood is going near water, it needs several coats of epoxy. read
directions about application and secondary bonding. fiberglass cloth is
imbedded in wet epoxy using paint brush and squeegee. see directions for
weight of cloth and radius of corners glassed over. second and third
coats of epoxy/filler yield smooth surface and built up(squared) corners.
good luck.

Hmmm.... in a word... bullhockey. There is a chance that a bit less
maintainance will be needed but epoxy is hardly a necessity. Epoxy is no
guarantee of seaworthiness or durability.

Ed

In article ,
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

"mac" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

"William R. Watt" wrote in message
...

with wood you can always take more off, but you can't put it
back on.

A carpenter is a whittler who knows when to quit.

Ed

a "journeyman" is a guy who knows how to fix his fux ups.

if wood is going near water, it needs several coats of epoxy. read
directions about application and secondary bonding. fiberglass cloth is
imbedded in wet epoxy using paint brush and squeegee. see directions for
weight of cloth and radius of corners glassed over. second and third
coats of epoxy/filler yield smooth surface and built up(squared) corners.
good luck.

Hmmm.... in a word... bullhockey. There is a chance that a bit less
maintainance will be needed but epoxy is hardly a necessity. Epoxy is no
guarantee of seaworthiness or durability.

Ed

well, give it a couple of coats of primer and then a coat of your
favorite anti-fouling. (personally, the only things I use wood for is
interior trim and of course, the fireplace. if I was building yet
another daggerboard, I'd use foam core and fiberglass/epoxy. different
tech. for different folks, huh?)

"mac" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote:


Hmmm.... in a word... bullhockey. There is a chance that a bit less
maintainance will be needed but epoxy is hardly a necessity. Epoxy is no
guarantee of seaworthiness or durability.

Ed

well, give it a couple of coats of primer and then a coat of your
favorite anti-fouling. (personally, the only things I use wood for is
interior trim and of course, the fireplace. if I was building yet
another daggerboard, I'd use foam core and fiberglass/epoxy. different
tech. for different folks, huh?)

I guess I should have thrown in a smiley or a (grin).... Different
strokes, not only for different folks, but for different applications.

I had a Luders L-16 many years back. A 26' loa cold molded plywood boat.
It was made with mahogany and resourcinol glue which I used to match up the
repairs it needed when I got it. It seems to me that that would be the
"perfect" material (only sub'ing epoxy for the glue) for a larger boat. All
the best points of both wood and plastic.

For a simple daggerboard (and again, depending on the application) the
simple method described by the OP seems fine to me. The last dagger I made
was 1/2" plywood. I rough cut it with a bandsaw, sanded the profile with
various power and hand sanders, filled the voids with a glue sawdust mix and
it has about 12 coats of polyurethane on it. It works great and has lasted
(with no new coating) for about 3 years so far. It was for a Snark (the
styrofoam covered with plastic sheathing boat). As is, it was more work
than the boat is worth. But "worth" rarely fits in a discussion of boat
building or repair. If it were a boat I was racing (not likely, another
"not my bag") I'd have probably put more into it. (grin)

Ed

"Ed Edelenbos" ) writes:

... The last dagger I made
was 1/2" plywood. I rough cut it with a bandsaw, sanded the profile with
various power and hand sanders, filled the voids with a glue sawdust mix and
it has about 12 coats of polyurethane on it. It works great and has lasted
(with no new coating) for about 3 years so far.

I'm a great beliver in economy. I have one 1/2" plywood daggerboard which
serves all three of my home made sailboats. After all, a person can only
sail one boat at a time. It was rounded off on the leqding edge and
tapered on the trailing edge with a sanding disk on an electric drill. The
edges were then give a couple of coats of tinted polyester resin the the
whole thing was painted with exterior latex house paint from a garage
sale. The plywood was made of some sort of dark wood, salvaged from a
packing case, possibly some sort of mahogony. When it got wedged under one
of the boats in shallow water and cracked it was repaired by pumping PL
Premium into the crack and weighting it down with bricks over night. It's
been well used and looks beat up but is still functioning fine. Photos on
my website under "Boats".

Come to think of it the rudder on a 20 footer I once owned was also made
from plywood. I broke the cheeks on it surfing downwind under full sail in
a blow and had to replace them. The cheeks were plywood.


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In article ,
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

"mac" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote:


Hmmm.... in a word... bullhockey. There is a chance that a bit less
maintainance will be needed but epoxy is hardly a necessity. Epoxy is no
guarantee of seaworthiness or durability.

Ed

well, give it a couple of coats of primer and then a coat of your
favorite anti-fouling. (personally, the only things I use wood for is
interior trim and of course, the fireplace. if I was building yet
another daggerboard, I'd use foam core and fiberglass/epoxy. different
tech. for different folks, huh?)

I guess I should have thrown in a smiley or a (grin).... Different
strokes, not only for different folks, but for different applications.

I had a Luders L-16 many years back. A 26' loa cold molded plywood boat.
It was made with mahogany and resourcinol glue which I used to match up the
repairs it needed when I got it. It seems to me that that would be the
"perfect" material (only sub'ing epoxy for the glue) for a larger boat. All
the best points of both wood and plastic.

For a simple daggerboard (and again, depending on the application) the
simple method described by the OP seems fine to me. The last dagger I made
was 1/2" plywood. I rough cut it with a bandsaw, sanded the profile with
various power and hand sanders, filled the voids with a glue sawdust mix and
it has about 12 coats of polyurethane on it. It works great and has lasted
(with no new coating) for about 3 years so far. It was for a Snark (the
styrofoam covered with plastic sheathing boat). As is, it was more work
than the boat is worth. But "worth" rarely fits in a discussion of boat
building or repair. If it were a boat I was racing (not likely, another
"not my bag") I'd have probably put more into it. (grin)

Ed

L-16 is still on my list of most beautiful boats.
OK, I'll admit it, I had a snark too.