Glenn Ashmore wrote:

If you can't clamp a 10' 6x6 you ain't got enough clamps! No
respecting DIYer can have less than a dozen bar clamps.

Yea, I got lots of bar clamps, but I can't clamp around the posts
because the fence is already up in between the posts. Maybe fence
isin't quite the right word. It's not a wood fence - it's
poured-in-place concrete. So it's not coming out.

I don't think they make C-clamps with arms that are 8 feet long.

Some Guy wrote:

Yea, I got lots of bar clamps, but I can't clamp around the posts
because the fence is already up in between the posts. Maybe fence
isin't quite the right word. It's not a wood fence - it's
poured-in-place concrete. So it's not coming out.

I don't think they make C-clamps with arms that are 8 feet long.

Sounds like it is Spanish Windlass time.

Lew

Lew Hodgett ) writes:
Some Guy wrote:

Yea, I got lots of bar clamps, but I can't clamp around the posts
because the fence is already up in between the posts. Maybe fence
isin't quite the right word. It's not a wood fence - it's
poured-in-place concrete. So it's not coming out.

I don't think they make C-clamps with arms that are 8 feet long.

Sounds like it is Spanish Windlass time.

What he means is a loop of rope around the post twisted tight with a stick
of wood. You'll want to put wooden blocks under the loops so the pressure
is on the flat instead of the edge.

Clamps? Who needs clamps?

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"William R. Watt" wrote:

I don't think they make C-clamps with arms that are 8 feet
long.

Sounds like it is Spanish Windlass time.

What he means is a loop of rope around the post twisted tight
with a stick of wood. You'll want to put wooden blocks under
the loops so the pressure is on the flat instead of the edge.

That only would work at the top of the post (which rises above the
wall portion in between the posts). And I'd rather use a bar clamp
(or two) there anyways and not a twisted rope.

Since it's impractical to rig something up to apply pressure to keep
the plank against the post (but I will have some screws to hold them
together), and since the plank is finished, stained, with a
polyurethane top coat (rigging something against it would likely mark
the surface), my original question is - does recorcinol glue need
bonding pressure in order to do it's job? I don't care how much I put
on in between the plank and the post (and I don't care if it bleeds
purple because it ain't gonna bleed through wood that's 15/16" thick).

This is not hard-wood I'm gluing together...

"Some Guy" wrote in message ...
the surface), my original question is - does recorcinol glue need
bonding pressure in order to do it's job?

Yes, it does. It requires a tight fit (planed surfaces) and about 125 to 150
pounds per square inch of pressure. So i'd say, forget about it. Use epoxy.

Meindert

Lew Hodgett wrote:

I don't think they make C-clamps with arms that are 8 feet long.

Sounds like it is Spanish Windlass time.

Aren't they used to pull things together? With rope? You can't push
with a rope.

I need to push a plank against a (verticle) post (assuming I really do
need the pressure for bonding with glue). I don't have access to the
back side of the post.

In article , Some Guy wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:

I don't think they make C-clamps with arms that are 8 feet long.

Sounds like it is Spanish Windlass time.

Aren't they used to pull things together? With rope? You can't push
with a rope.

I need to push a plank against a (verticle) post (assuming I really do
need the pressure for bonding with glue). I don't have access to the
back side of the post.

How about using more screws and construction adhesive (liquid nails or
PL)

--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Now that the situtation is more clearly described, I'd avoid using adhesive.

The screws will hold the boards to the post. Just make sure when the
boards warp they don't warp away from the post. Do that by looking at the
end grain and attaching the boards to the post with the end gain curved up
in the middle. When the board warps it will attempt to rise in the middle
but the screws will prevent that, so the edges will bear down on the post
which is what you want.

Avoiding glue gives you the option of replacing any boards that get
damaged or split with age.

If you want some sort of bedding compound between the boards and post, and
I wouldn't bother, then tar (asphalt roofing patch), tarred paper (roofing
felt), or liquid nails (polyurethane mastic in a tube) are good for that.
Liquid nails is an adhesive. All of those will keep water, bugs, or
whatever from getting in between the boards and the post. They are a lot
cheaper than epoxy adhesive thickend with microballons or wood flour.

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