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#1
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cheap Y-valve for head pumpout?
2 thoughts arise from this post.
First... Are you SURE you want a Cheap valve to do this job? A failiure could be a tad unpleasant Second... There is a very wide selection of valves and change over stuff at my local swimming pool/ Hot tub dealers. "20 lashes" wrote in message ... Yipes, $65usd for a frickin' plastic valve at Waste Marine? I think the pipe on my handsome, gleaming hand pump toilet is 1 3/8" or 1 1/2". Can't you use something from the hardware store? I want to Y the waste to the thru-hull or the waste tank. I guess you need one Y-valve and one stop valve. Hmm. Thanks as always and keep up the good work. |
#2
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I had a cheap plastic Y valve on a previous boat. It was very difficult to
turn; I know it needed to be overhauled and lubricated but the thought of disassembly was most unpleasant. |
#3
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20 lashes wrote:
Yipes, $65usd for a frickin' plastic valve at Waste Marine? I think the pipe on my handsome, gleaming hand pump toilet is 1 3/8" or 1 1/2". Can't you use something from the hardware store? I want to Y the waste to the thru-hull or the waste tank. I guess you need one Y-valve and one stop valve. Hmm. Thanks as always and keep up the good work. I used one large plastic ball valve from Home Hardware to close off the marine discharge, replacing the old through hull valve that would have been ok, but was really getting stiff, worn and balky. It cost $19.00. The flush hose is teed to the marine discharge valve and the holding tank. When the discharge ball valve is closed, the effluent goes to the tank with it's air vent hoses open. With holding tank air vent hoses closed by cheap plastic ball valve shutoffs, ($5.00 each) air pressure builds up in the tank and with the discharge valve open caused effluent to go out the marine discharge. (Two vents, on opposite sides of the hull, encourages oxygenation of the holding tank, reducing anaerobic odour significantly) It is far cheaper than a marine "Y" and can have the same effect, overall. Introduction of a very little excess air pressure into the sealed tank vent line purges the holding tank, with the hoses set up right and a lift of only a foot or two. The shraeder air valve (tire valve) installs using an R.V. purge air adapter in the 1" vent line between the tank and the vent shutoff. ($3.00) The air pump is a 12 Volt tire inflator, ($9.00, on sale) but a manual balloon pump from the dollar store should work as well. To dump the tank at sea, I close the 2 air vents, open the marine discharge valve, and pump air into the tank. Two minutes, all gone! Be certain your duck bill, or "joker" valve in the head flush pump does not leak back significantly. If it does, it needs replacement. One should always have an extra duck bill aboard. For safety, it is now convenient to leave the marine discharge through hull closed and use the holding tank, until opening it only long enough to purge the tank before returning to port. It does not interfere with normal deck suction pumpout, so long as the vent is open. This scheme also removes any need to have a self pumpout pump in the toilet hoses, something less to worry about. Coincidentally, it also enables easy tank dumps on the trailer at an R.V. dump plaza, or street grate using a tail pipe rammed or threaded into the marine discharge, or not. Eww! Terry K |
#4
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20 lashes wrote:
Yipes, $65usd for a frickin' plastic valve at Waste Marine? I think the pipe on my handsome, gleaming hand pump toilet is 1 3/8" or 1 1/2". 1.5". Can't you use something from the hardware store? I wouldn't. And I wouldn't buy the cheapest one from WM (which, btw, has become the most expensive retailer on the planet!) either. If you want a y-valve that'll last more than a few years, buy a Whale. I want to Y the waste to the thru-hull or the waste tank. I guess you need one Y-valve and one stop valve. Nope..you don't need a stop valve, just a y-valve inline. All your thru-hulls should have the best quality ball valve (NOT gate valves) seacocks on 'em you can buy if you don't want to risk sinking your boat. If the toilet is below the waterline, you'll need a vented loop (3/4") in the head intake (NOT between the thru-hull and the pump, but between the pump and bowl)...if the discharge thru-hull is below waterline (which I hope it is!), you'll need one in the head discharge line too. I don't recommend Terry's method to dump the tank either. That can result in blown hose connections or an eruption in the toilet. -- Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/store/custo...0&cat=6&page=1 |
#5
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Peggie Hall wrote:
If you want a y-valve that'll last more than a few years, buy a Whale. When it comes to waste "Y" valves, there is Whale and those that when they grow up want to be Whale. Lew |
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