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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 04:23:57 +0000, Bill McKee wrote:
One piece is much better. Those joints in the wood have little strength. I don't think the joints in the core NEED much strength. I mean, you can use Styrofoam as a core, and that can be broken easily by hand. Also, balsa core is not very strong laterally, but it is an excellent core material (unless it gets wet). With cores, the important thing is that it adhere well to the skin, and that it have good compression strength. Butted plywood with, say, epoxy filler at the joint, should make a good core. But then I am not a mechanical or structural engineer or naval architect, so take my opinion for what it is worth. --Mac "Chris" wrote in message ... So replacing wood with new plywood means I can cut out a shape of any size and replace it with a close to equal piece of plywood correct? Just glass the old plywood to the new plywood, right? No concern over how big a piece of plywood is, etc? I could use two pieces of plywood for one hole? etc It appears I've got more rot than I had expected (although the transom feels strong otherwise). I've pulled out about a 1 foot x 1 foot section around the drain plug and am evaluating whether there will be anymore to go too.. Have drilled a bunch of holes in the lower inner part of the transom to see how far it spreads and allow all the wood to dry up before my final decision wrote in message ups.com... It's too late to do any more than slightly slow the problem by sealing the exposed wooden surfaces of the drain hole. If you like this boat and plan to keep it, you will want to cut the rot out of the transom. Be sure to go a few inches beyond the point where you "think" the rot ends when scarfing in the new piece. You should be able to cut away part of the fiberglass on the outside of the transom and spoon out the punky wood, cut a new piece of the best marine ply you can find, and then glass up the exterior again. This is a great chance to learn from the bad practice of the original builder. Any hole drilled through a wooden member- transom, stringer, etc for the purpose of draining water should have the edges sealed up to prevent water from wicking into the surrounding area and promoting rot. If it were my project, I would cut the drain hole large enough to accept a drain plug with a bronze collar fitting. Seal the edges of the hole with a layer of glass and resin, and then bond the bronze collar into the sealed hole- perhaps using epoxy. One rot gets a foothold, it is relentless. Transom rot on small boats is fairly common, and as most are outboard powered it is double trouble. |
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