Hi

I wonder if anyone using epoxy know, that with epoxy the cabinet
scraper work perfect. The tool is one used by carpenters doing real
fine furniture finish, you use it inbetween the layers of frensh
polishing where this tool in perfect if you can maintain it's sharp
edge -- making that is a small art in itself and when you first learned
it, you would never be without this tool. It cut so thin that you can
look thru what it cut ,it is just a square piece of steel that you
polish with an arkansas stone and with a blank file you grow a tiny
edge sharper than a razor I ised it every time I used epoxy wood
treadment and after the zieklinge as it is called in denmark I prefered
to blond with steel wool , oh it just came out so nice nicer than any
other finish and then it work with epoxy ,why this is an issue is a
compleat other story.

P.C.
http://tinylink.com/?UUkgrl2dPc

wrote:
Hi

I wonder if anyone using epoxy know, that with epoxy the cabinet
scraper work perfect. The tool is one used by carpenters doing real
fine furniture finish, you use it inbetween the layers of frensh
polishing where this tool in perfect if you can maintain it's sharp
edge -- making that is a small art in itself and when you first learned
it, you would never be without this tool. It cut so thin that you can
look thru what it cut ,it is just a square piece of steel that you
polish with an arkansas stone and with a blank file you grow a tiny
edge sharper than a razor I ised it every time I used epoxy wood
treadment and after the zieklinge as it is called in denmark I prefered
to blond with steel wool , oh it just came out so nice nicer than any
other finish and then it work with epoxy ,why this is an issue is a
compleat other story.

Better yet, get a Bahco (formerly Sandvik) carbide scraper. It works
well for scraping composites and doesn't require constant sharpening.
It's one of the few tools that will shape Dynel and Kevlar without
dulling or producing fuzz.

"Brian Nystrom" wrote

Better yet, get a Bahco (formerly Sandvik) carbide scraper. It works well
for scraping composites and doesn't require constant sharpening. It's one
of the few tools that will shape Dynel and Kevlar without dulling or
producing fuzz.

I find the Bahco cabinet scraper is just a little higher quality than the
Veritas. Both are made of steel. The handled scraper is carbide intended
mostly for removing old paint. It does do a good job on roughing down
composites but it doesn't do anything like as good a job on wood or epoxy
sealed wood that the OP is talking about.

Once you get a good square edge on a steel cabinet scraper it doesn't take
but a few seconds to raise a bur. There is an art to using it though and
can be a real pain if you have any arthritis in your hands. I am using a
Bahco scraper in a Veritas holder a LOT here lately. I put a protective
coat of varnish on all the cherry veneer when it went up. Now I am scraping
it all off so I can apply the final finish.

Anyone who thinks that building the hull is the hard part has a lot to
learn. The finishing details will drive you mad.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
"Brian Nystrom" wrote

Better yet, get a Bahco (formerly Sandvik) carbide scraper. It works well
for scraping composites and doesn't require constant sharpening. It's one
of the few tools that will shape Dynel and Kevlar without dulling or
producing fuzz.

The handled scraper is carbide intended
mostly for removing old paint. It does do a good job on roughing down
composites but it doesn't do anything like as good a job on wood or epoxy
sealed wood that the OP is talking about.

I use it primarily for roughing, as you suggest, though it does produce
a smooth surface on small areas. For some reason, I assumed Per's
primary interest was in removing epoxy runs and such, rather than finish
work. You're right that a steel scraper is a better way to go for the
latter task.

Hi

Stanley made a cabinet scraper plane Stanley No.80 is the one left down
to my by family , but the original blade was sharpened a bit different
than the standard cabinet scraper. With the scraper plane there are an
angled edge that is set up as a chissel or hand plane blade , then as
useal all surfaces are polished and the burr are grown ontop the angled
cutting edge.
Now this "plane" are adjusted by a screw in the middle that when
screwed in force the blade to be curved , and then you better watch out
,as suddenly this humble tool do a chip as thick as any plane ,it
suddenly show that it is the details and care that make the tool work ,
and please take into account that you maby think you know what a
cabinet scraper can maneage --- but only if you tried one that is realy
set up right.
It is a small art to set it right, polishing must be perfect and
ofcaurse done on all surfaces as here aswell as with other hand tools,
the "Polishing" surface make halve the cutting edge and it is no good
to try sharpen a blade if you forget that there are two plane surfaces
to form one cutting edge , --- well I don't need to say that to the
ones who know carpentry but it is to often forgot, that a right
sharpened hand tool can be almost as effective as an electric povered
one. The cabinet scraper is ofcaurse perfect for runners ,but with an
edge sharper than a razor so sharp it will split atoms you will have a
tool that can be sharpened to take curves and surfaces and placing it
in a Stanley 80 just make it the perfect tool for finish big surfaces
in a quality you would never think you would maneage being an amature,
---- still there are many misunderstood way's to sharpen it but only
one right way .