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#1
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Treaveler arch quandry- Bond or bolt?
I have finally got the traveler arch fitted perfectly to it's pads but now I
am having some doubts before I bond it in place. From the bottom of the keel to the top of the arch will be 15'4". Set on a Brownell trailer with the keel on a drop bar the road height will be right at 16'2". Without the arch the height would be 13'4". As the beam is 14' it will have to get an oversize permit anyway but anything over 13'6" is charged extra by most movers. This is not really a problem for me as the keel will not go on until the boat is at the launch site but it will be if sometime down the road another owner wants to transport it. Especially through states with 16' bridge clearances. The question is, do I bond the arch to the hull and just leave the moving problem to the next owner 20 years from now or bolt it on so it can be removed? Obviously bonding will be much stronger. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#2
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Bolt it. As to "just leave the moving problem to the next owner 20 years
from now", circumstances change- it could be YOU needing to truck the boat in a couple years time. Regarding strength, you only need so much, assuming you can bolt adequately- and you can, otherwise the answer would be obvious and you wouldn`t be asking- you don`t need the potential inconvenience. What happens if it gets damaged somehow? Would be a hell of a lot easier to be able to unbolt it and fix it in the shop. HTH Bob Larder (who learned in years of maintenance work to make things as easy as possible to repair). Glenn Ashmore wrote: I have finally got the traveler arch fitted perfectly to it's pads |
#3
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If the design is such that you can bolt it and beef it up with some compact
(carbon uni?) scabbing that can be later ground away if the need arises, i'd lean that way. But, Glenn, i expect that you've already done a primo job of finishing the parts. That'll teach you. ;-) Jim "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:zM7de.768$sy6.455@lakeread04... I have finally got the traveler arch fitted perfectly to it's pads but now I am having some doubts before I bond it in place. From the bottom of the keel to the top of the arch will be 15'4". Set on a Brownell trailer with the keel on a drop bar the road height will be right at 16'2". Without the arch the height would be 13'4". As the beam is 14' it will have to get an oversize permit anyway but anything over 13'6" is charged extra by most movers. This is not really a problem for me as the keel will not go on until the boat is at the launch site but it will be if sometime down the road another owner wants to transport it. Especially through states with 16' bridge clearances. The question is, do I bond the arch to the hull and just leave the moving problem to the next owner 20 years from now or bolt it on so it can be removed? Obviously bonding will be much stronger. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#4
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Glenn Ashmore wrote:
I have finally got the traveler arch fitted perfectly to it's pads but now I am having some doubts before I bond it in place. From the bottom of the keel to the top of the arch will be 15'4". Set on a Brownell trailer with the keel on a drop bar the road height will be right at 16'2". Without the arch the height would be 13'4". As the beam is 14' it will have to get an oversize permit anyway but anything over 13'6" is charged extra by most movers. This is not really a problem for me as the keel will not go on until the boat is at the launch site but it will be if sometime down the road another owner wants to transport it. Especially through states with 16' bridge clearances. The question is, do I bond the arch to the hull and just leave the moving problem to the next owner 20 years from now or bolt it on so it can be removed? Obviously bonding will be much stronger. Bond it. The next owner may not move it overland. YOU'RE the owner - not the future one. Evan Gatehouse |
#5
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Robert Larder wrote:
Bolt it. As to "just leave the moving problem to the next owner 20 years from now", circumstances change- it could be YOU needing to truck the boat in a couple years time. Regarding strength, you only need so much, assuming you can bolt adequately- and you can, otherwise the answer would be obvious and you wouldn`t be asking- you don`t need the potential inconvenience. What happens if it gets damaged somehow? Would be a hell of a lot easier to be able to unbolt it and fix it in the shop. HTH Bob Larder (who learned in years of maintenance work to make things as easy as possible to repair). Hmmm. All good points. Bolt it Evan Gatehouse |
#6
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Bond it. The next owner may not move it overland. YOU'RE the owner - not the future one. Evan Gatehouse I was hoping you would chime in. I was already leaning towards bonding but my intestinal fortitude needed some reinforcement. :-) The arch is carbon composite and very stiff. Bonding will spread any shock load over a much wider area and I can't concieve of me ever transporting the boat after it hits the water. . -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#7
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On Sun, 1 May 2005 12:49:44 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote: I have finally got the traveler arch fitted perfectly to it's pads but now I am having some doubts before I bond it in place. From the bottom of the keel to the top of the arch will be 15'4". Set on a Brownell trailer with the keel on a drop bar the road height will be right at 16'2". Without the arch the height would be 13'4". As the beam is 14' it will have to get an oversize permit anyway but anything over 13'6" is charged extra by most movers. This is not really a problem for me as the keel will not go on until the boat is at the launch site but it will be if sometime down the road another owner wants to transport it. Especially through states with 16' bridge clearances. The question is, do I bond the arch to the hull and just leave the moving problem to the next owner 20 years from now or bolt it on so it can be removed? Obviously bonding will be much stronger. You are talking of the choice between adding market value by increasing the reasonable transport radius of a prospective sale vs some present sense of increased strength of a structural part of your love-child. If you were not interested in maximizing perceived value you would not have sweated the many details already. So I am sure which option you will finally settle on. The message just has not yet arrived at your consciousness. Yet. Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
#8
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The only think I've seen suffer damage from being too strong is some very
high temperature stuff. Bond it. Having said that, if you absolutely HAD to remove the arch for any reason, how and where would you cut it and subsequently replace it - given that the final strength / stiffness would only need to match the "bolting" option . Bond it and be damned. David "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message news:c6hde.1206$sy6.978@lakeread04... Bond it. The next owner may not move it overland. YOU'RE the owner - not the future one. Evan Gatehouse I was hoping you would chime in. I was already leaning towards bonding but my intestinal fortitude needed some reinforcement. :-) The arch is carbon composite and very stiff. Bonding will spread any shock load over a much wider area and I can't concieve of me ever transporting the boat after it hits the water. . -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#9
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On Sun, 1 May 2005 21:13:19 +0200, "Robert Larder"
wrote: Bolt it. As to "just leave the moving problem to the next owner 20 years from now", circumstances change- it could be YOU needing to truck the boat in a couple years time. Regarding strength, you only need so much, assuming you can bolt adequately- and you can, otherwise the answer would be obvious and you wouldn`t be asking- you don`t need the potential inconvenience. What happens if it gets damaged somehow? Would be a hell of a lot easier to be able to unbolt it and fix it in the shop. HTH Bob Larder (who learned in years of maintenance work to make things as easy as possible to repair). Glenn Ashmore wrote: I have finally got the traveler arch fitted perfectly to it's pads I agree, bolt it on if the strength of the fasteners is adequate, and reinforce them if they aren't. This isn't something like a hull-deck joint where glassing has many advantages and few disadvantages. And besides what happens if after a year of sailing it you come to the conclusion that it really needs some changes? Bolting it on will make modifications easier. I've seen lots of things that looked like a good design until I had to use it a while. JJ James Johnson remove the "dot" from after sail in email address to reply |
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