Mac ) writes:

Another variable with the leeboard is size. I'm not really sure what a
good ratio is of sail area to leeboard area, but I don't think your
leeboard is too small, off the top of my head. Still if you feel like the
boat is slipping to leeward almost as fast as it is going forward, you can
try a leeboard with more surface area.

1 sq ft in the water for evey 40-50 sq ft of sail. since his current sail
si 44 sq ft that means 1 sq ft of leeboard under the water. since a canoe
has little lateral resistance compared to a sialign dingy a bit more
wouldn't hurt.

a plywood or lumber or metal plate leeboard or daggerboard is fine. round
off the leading edge and leave a 1/8" flat on the trailing edge. when
using plywood I cover the leading and trailing edge with resin and leave the
middle ply on the trailing edge flat. They sell used aluminum street
signs locally for $5 and I've been tempted to try one as a leeboard or
daggerboard. crusing sailing canoes in the late 1800's had removeabe
60 lb metal plate centreboards for lateral resistance and balast.

if the mast is stepped right at the bow it will depress the bow more as
wind speed increases. all that means is you have to move back in the boat or
lower the leeboard or daggerboard to compensate for the greater lateral
resistance in the bow. I accidentally put my Loonie with it's mast stepped
right at the bow out of balance by moving the backrest aft to give me more
leg room. I now have to slouch to keep the boat sailing in a straight line.

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