I have a 115 hp Evinrude outboard model # 115999R
(don't know what year). The trim quit working. The
motor for it still whirs and sounds the same when I
push the down button, but since it's stuck in the down
position it doesn't move. When I push the up button
there is a click, which sounds like it's coming from an
area inside the boat, below where the motor is mounted.
I need to get someone to push the button so I can try
to find exactly where it's clicking I guess, but so far
haven't had the chance to do that. Anyway...an outboard
mechanic told me a relay has probably gone bad, and
showed me on another boat where it was and what it
looked like. That's not how it looks on mine though :-(
Can anyone tell me if there is an online source that
shows the motor parts and where the relay would be
located, or tell me from experience where it is...or anything
helpful?

If yours is close to a '77 engine, I've got some manual pages which may
help.

In a similar situation, I located the three wires which are switched -
up, down and source and selected a high current automobile relay to
replace.

Brian W

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 17:33:54 GMT, wrote:

I have a 115 hp Evinrude outboard model # 115999R
(don't know what year). The trim quit working. The
motor for it still whirs and sounds the same when I
push the down button, but since it's stuck in the down
position it doesn't move. When I push the up button
there is a click, which sounds like it's coming from an
area inside the boat, below where the motor is mounted.
I need to get someone to push the button so I can try
to find exactly where it's clicking I guess, but so far
haven't had the chance to do that. Anyway...an outboard
mechanic told me a relay has probably gone bad, and
showed me on another boat where it was and what it
looked like. That's not how it looks on mine though :-(
Can anyone tell me if there is an online source that
shows the motor parts and where the relay would be
located, or tell me from experience where it is...or anything
helpful?

An automotive relay may not be spark proof. Got a gas tank in that space?
Carry your family on that boat?

--
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"Brian Whatcott" wrote in message
...
In a similar situation, I located the three wires which are switched -
up, down and source and selected a high current automobile relay to
replace.

Brian W

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 17:33:54 GMT, wrote:

I have a 115 hp Evinrude outboard model # 115999R
(don't know what year). The trim quit working. The
motor for it still whirs and sounds the same when I
push the down button, but since it's stuck in the down
position it doesn't move. When I push the up button
there is a click, which sounds like it's coming from an
area inside the boat, below where the motor is mounted.
I need to get someone to push the button so I can try
to find exactly where it's clicking I guess, but so far
haven't had the chance to do that. Anyway...an outboard
mechanic told me a relay has probably gone bad, and
showed me on another boat where it was and what it
looked like. That's not how it looks on mine though :-(
Can anyone tell me if there is an online source that
shows the motor parts and where the relay would be
located, or tell me from experience where it is...or anything
helpful?

I believe the canned relay I chose is sparkproof. The boat has two gas
cans. The lift switch as originally provided is not spark proof
however.

Here's a gee-whizz item you're sure to enjoy:
the fuel sender inside the gas tank of your car is not in a spark
proof container. Moreover, it DOES spark. Thought you'd enjoy
learning that!

Brian Whatcott Altus OK

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 14:12:29 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

An automotive relay may not be spark proof. Got a gas tank in that space?
Carry your family on that boat?

It sounds like you need a new hydraulic pump. Only way to know is to
take it to a OMC shop. They are lspendy units to repair. First I'd
check the fluid level but, it does not sound good.

Rick

wrote:
I have a 115 hp Evinrude outboard model # 115999R
(don't know what year). The trim quit working. The
motor for it still whirs and sounds the same when I
push the down button, but since it's stuck in the down
position it doesn't move. When I push the up button
there is a click, which sounds like it's coming from an
area inside the boat, below where the motor is mounted.
I need to get someone to push the button so I can try
to find exactly where it's clicking I guess, but so far
haven't had the chance to do that. Anyway...an outboard
mechanic told me a relay has probably gone bad, and
showed me on another boat where it was and what it
looked like. That's not how it looks on mine though :-(
Can anyone tell me if there is an online source that
shows the motor parts and where the relay would be
located, or tell me from experience where it is...or anything
helpful?

Brian W says:

Here's a gee-whizz item you're sure to enjoy:
the fuel sender inside the gas tank of your car is not in a spark
proof container. Moreover, it DOES spark. Thought you'd enjoy
learning that!


My fuel sender no longer connects to the rheostat unit, and is in fact just
floating around in there. No sparks. ;-)
The "guage" part is now my odometer.

Steve

Brian Whatcott wrote in message . ..
I believe the canned relay I chose is sparkproof. The boat has two gas
cans. The lift switch as originally provided is not spark proof
however.

Here's a gee-whizz item you're sure to enjoy:
the fuel sender inside the gas tank of your car is not in a spark
proof container. Moreover, it DOES spark. Thought you'd enjoy
learning that!

Absolutely. I changed one in my step daughter's Taurus, and was
surprised! The electrical connections (INSIDE the tank) are simple
spade terminals!

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 20:04:32 -0500, Rick wrote:

It sounds like you need a new hydraulic pump. Only way to know is to
take it to a OMC shop. They are lspendy units to repair. First I'd
check the fluid level but, it does not sound good.

Rick

Yeah, that sounds about right :-( I did find and replace
the relay. It didn't fix the problem, and now it doesn't
even click any more. When I hit the down button, the
motor still whirs like always though...