In article , says...

On Sun, 26 Jun 2011 23:30:49 -0400, I_am_Tosk wrote:

In article , says...

On Sun, 26 Jun 2011 19:20:40 -0400, I_am_Tosk wrote:

In article , says...
http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisbo...orBoySkiff.htm


Looks like a great boat, but for rowing and very small engines, I
might take 4 inches away from the transom width just to give it a
better trailing edge for small (human) power. Trust me, even 6 inches
if you never plan on putting on an engine, it will row twice as well
as the plan you have here now which is wide and would be great if you
were running a two to three horse engine... Look at the boat this
size I built specifically for rowing;

http://smallboats.com/images/current...ter_05_400.jpg

Basically the same boat you are contemplating, just specifically with
the narrow transom for better rowing efficiency... This boat weighed
80 pounds and was made from 6mm occoume and mahogany trim/framing...
The chines were not "logged", I used a 3/4 inches fillet of epoxy and
filler, and covered the bottom and 4 inches up the sides with 4 oz
tight weave fiberglass to protect the bottom from rocks...


Thanks.
The boat looks great.
I will probably play with paper models of the design first. I wonder
what would be the best glue to use for making cardboard boat models.

Use Scotch tape and oak tag (manilla folder, or file folder, etc.). The
scotch tape makes it easy to make adjustments as you can use an exacto
to slice and move it as you modify without a huge buildup of glue,
etc...

Don't worry too much. Build it around the transom, bulkheads, and stem.

For my boat I used three sheets of plywood. Here's a hint. I used 15
inch sides and one sheet made them both. Then I basically built the rest
of the boat around them... Take one of the sheets of plywood and cut it
into three 15 inch by 8 foot strips. Then cut one of the strips in half
at a 40-45 degree angle. Take one half and butt joint it to one of the 8
foot strips, and the other half to the second 8 foot strip and now you
have two 12 foot sides that bent around the outside of your bulkheads
and attached to the transom, will leave you with about a 10 and a half
foot boat...

Build your transom, and then build two bulkheads, then build a stem.
Bevel your stem and attach the two sides temporarily. Bend the sides
around your bulkheads and tack it to the transom... adjust your bevels,
and epoxy and nail it all in place. Apply your chine logs (inside or
outside) and lay your plywood over the bottom, scribe it out, cut it
out, and fasten it on using stitch and glue, or hard chines glue and
nail..

Flip the hull, Attach your gunnels, put in your seats, add some cheap
flotation, couple of decent oar locks, and paint it up...

Always wear a life jacket, and don't chince out on the oars. I mean, you
can make them yourself. Your first thought will be to use short oars,
packing, and all that, but trust me, get a set of 10 footers, they will
move that boat like a dream...

Good luck and take pictures..

Good luck Scotty


Thanks a lot.
I'm not worried;
I'm just too lazy to actually do it right away.
I used to love fishing,
but I haven't fished for a decade.
I do have other hobbies.
I need to clean the "barn" first,
as it is full of green wood for the other hobby.
Have you even made a jonboat in the same way
or in a kind of simplified chine log way?

Yeah... We call it "self jigging" as you build around the stem,
bulkheads, and transom. For bigger boats I have left the stem and sides
of transom long, and driven them into the ground until you are ready to
flip it.. good luck and don't let the dream get by you, you can do this
boat outside under a tarp, and an hour at a time...

--
Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life!