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mmc mmc is offline
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Default Nice boat plan


"Frogwatch" wrote in message
...
On Apr 16, 5:51 am, "mmc" wrote:
------
Mind sharing your suggestions? I'll file this for when I'm reaady.


Instead of using bolts to secure the two halves as some nesting dinghy
plans do, buy stainless Draw clamps from McMaster Carr and put them on
the outside of the two halves near the gunnel. You will still need
some way to join the two halves near the bottom. I used a stainless L
bracket where the L from the back half slides into a recessed
receiver on the front half.
To have to place the draw clamps carefully, otherwise the two halves
will not nest.
I considered using slide nuts on bolts to join the two halves. These
are nuts that slide almost all the way on when squeezed and then you
tighten them. This would save a lot of time over the original design
using just wing nuts but it still requires a wrench to loosen them AND
you still have the holes to let water in.
My nesting 2-Paw-9 is a really good boat but is still too big for my
28' sailboat foredeck. I also used closed cell foam attached to the
bulkhead between the two halves as floatation. It is attached using
Liquid Nails to the INSIDE of the bulkhead where it will be under the
seat. I also reinforced the seat edges with glass where the edge
holds the two halves together.
Another thing I did to make in-water assembly easier are two pieces of
ply with V cuts in them. While sitting in the back half in the water
facing the bulkhead and the front half floating bulkhead toward you,
pull back half toward you and put the V down over the two halves of
the bulkhead to hold them together while you use the L bracket to
attach front half at bottom and then use the draw clamps to secure
them at the top.
You may be able to forego the draw clamps if your seat has a slot that
securely holds the two halves at the top of the bulkhead.
My instructions said to use a 3/4" piece of wood bent around the
gunnel to reinforce it. MY wood would not bend that much so I
laminated it with 1/4" pieces epoxied and glassed over.
I also laminated the keel and obtained a 1/8" X 3/4" piece of aluminum
stock from Home Depot and used it on the bottom of the keel to keep it
from getting destroyed on rocks and oyster bars. Fasten it with ss
screws.
----------
Thanks for this David.
I was thinking about the problem with having sheets foul on the dinghy on
the foredeck and thought maybe having a whisker pole hooked to the ring on
the mast and the other end at the stem fitting or a piece of line rigged
the
same way would allow the sheets to ride over the dinghy?


hmmmmmm...............good idea. I may try this. Isn't it amazing
that something like this that was obvious to you never occurred to me?
-----------
I woke up at 4 this morning thinking about jibs sheets getting hung up on
foredeck fixtures! Maybe that "subconscious mind working on problems" thing
is real? If I don't watch it close, my sheets catch the forward hatch and
I've been putting up with that seems like forever so it wasn't obvious to me
either.
Hope it works.


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posted to rec.boats.building
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Default Nice boat plan

On Apr 16, 5:14*pm, "mmc" wrote:
"Frogwatch" wrote in message

...
On Apr 16, 5:51 am, "mmc" wrote:



------
Mind sharing your suggestions? I'll file this for when I'm reaady.


Instead of using bolts to secure the two halves as some nesting dinghy
plans do, buy stainless Draw clamps from McMaster Carr and put them on
the outside of the two halves near the gunnel. You will still need
some way to join the two halves near the bottom. I used a stainless L
bracket where the L from the back half slides into a recessed
receiver on the front half.
To have to place the draw clamps carefully, otherwise the two halves
will not nest.
I considered using slide nuts on bolts to join the two halves. These
are nuts that slide almost all the way on when squeezed and then you
tighten them. This would save a lot of time over the original design
using just wing nuts but it still requires a wrench to loosen them AND
you still have the holes to let water in.
My nesting 2-Paw-9 is a really good boat but is still too big for my
28' sailboat foredeck. I also used closed cell foam attached to the
bulkhead between the two halves as floatation. It is attached using
Liquid Nails to the INSIDE of the bulkhead where it will be under the
seat. I also reinforced the seat edges with glass where the edge
holds the two halves together.
Another thing I did to make in-water assembly easier are two pieces of
ply with V cuts in them. While sitting in the back half in the water
facing the bulkhead and the front half floating bulkhead toward you,
pull back half toward you and put the V down over the two halves of
the bulkhead to hold them together while you use the L bracket to
attach front half at bottom and then use the draw clamps to secure
them at the top.
You may be able to forego the draw clamps if your seat has a slot that
securely holds the two halves at the top of the bulkhead.
My instructions said to use a 3/4" piece of wood bent around the
gunnel to reinforce it. MY wood would not bend that much so I
laminated it with 1/4" pieces epoxied and glassed over.
I also laminated the keel and obtained a 1/8" X 3/4" piece of aluminum
stock from Home Depot and used it on the bottom of the keel to keep it
from getting destroyed on rocks and oyster bars. Fasten it with ss
screws.
----------
Thanks for this David.
I was thinking about the problem with having sheets foul on the dinghy on
the foredeck and thought maybe having a whisker pole hooked to the ring on
the mast and the other end at the stem fitting or a piece of line rigged
the
same way would allow the sheets to ride over the dinghy?


hmmmmmm...............good idea. I may try this. *Isn't it amazing
that something like this that was obvious to you never occurred to me?
-----------
I woke up at 4 this morning thinking about jibs sheets getting hung up on
foredeck fixtures! Maybe that "subconscious mind working on problems" thing
is real? If I don't watch it close, my sheets catch the forward hatch and
I've been putting up with that seems like forever so it wasn't obvious to me
either.
Hope it works.


I think it will work. You could even run one down the middle to the
stem and another from the stem to teh grab rail on cabin top on either
side. The sheets catching the forward hatch is a problem I also have
so GOOD IDEA.
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