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Checking a hull's integrity.
Bruce wrote:
I just went through a fairly extensive blister repair and basically if you use epoxy and fill gouges with chopped mat and epoxy the repair will likely be stronger then the original hull, assuming that the hull is polyester. Feather the gouge out and pack it with epoxy saturated mat. If you are worried about osmosis, after you have made your repairs grind the entire underwater area down to a good solid surface and roll on two coats of epoxy. Put the first coat on and let it set up until it isn't sticky but you can still mark it with your finger and then roll on the second coat. After the second coat sets up, but still not hard, roll on a coat of epoxy high build primer and leave it for a day or so. If you don't wait long enough after the first coat of epoxy the second coat will be very heavy as you have to slop it onto a sticky surface and if you paint the primer too soon it will craze - tiny cracks all over the place. The reason for all this hoopdi-do is that if you let the usual epoxy set hard it will have an oily film on it called "amine blush" and then you have to wash the whole thing clean, let it dry, wipe it with thinner, and repaint. Finish sand and two coats of two part polyurethane. You'll be good for ten years or so.... However it is more costly then polyester and barn paint. Cheers, Bruce I gotta say, Bruce, about the only thing that could be done beyond that it a couple of layers of new glass over the entire underwater hull. A close out layer that seals off all the possible cracks and crevasses from water incursion. Not that such would be economically feasible... Richard -- Richard Lamb http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/ |
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