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The keel was poured yesterday, design weight of 6750#. When we pull
it from the mould in the next week or two, it will be loaded on the trailer and go to town and to be weighed. Some parts of the process went better than others. The mold was very strong and stiff. The lead did not even put any pressure on the tie bolts along the open top. The exterior was 3" thick wall pipe, lined with plywood. Then a yard of reinforced cement, lined with 1000# of USG casting plaster. The cement was cured for 2 weeks (waiting for dry weather), the plaster had 10 days of very dry weather with fans running during the days. The mold was set in a 2 ft deep hole and loosely backfilled. The mold and the keel bolts were pre-heated for 24 hours with an electric heater and a small fan. We limited the old bathtub to about 2000#, pouring 1500#, and retaining 500# to help melt the next batch. The original plan was to do a slow continous pour, but quickly learned it was far easier to keep the surface of the lead molten if we did a quick pour. One heater for the surface of the 8 foot keel was not enough. The addition of an oxygen-LP rosebud and another weed burner was more than adequate. Partly by design, and partly from a helper misreading the scales, I have excess lead for sale at scrap price. This is almost all melted, scimmed, and recast wheel weights. It will be about 3% antimony. I also have a "fire" suit and 2 full face sheilds with HEPA filters ready to run off your air compressor. I am located 5 hours NW of Chicago, 3 hours SE of Minneapolis. If you are interested, send an email and include your phone number. mm |
#2
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WOW.....huge job. I would not undertake that. Are you sure doing this yourself saved you money? You had to make a significant
investment in the setup alone, not to mention the labor and safety risk. I am curious how you filled, heated and poured the lead into the mold. Were you able to keep the lead in the mold molten while melting and preparing the next 1500 lbs batch? When I did my lead ballast in ingot form, maintaining the pace was critical and although I was melting 400 lb batches, it was very difficult to keep the timing right. I hope you took photos of your setup. I would really like to see them. Congratulations, Steve "mm" wrote in message ... The keel was poured yesterday, design weight of 6750#. When we pull it from the mould in the next week or two, it will be loaded on the trailer and go to town and to be weighed. Some parts of the process went better than others. The mold was very strong and stiff. The lead did not even put any pressure on the tie bolts along the open top. The exterior was 3" thick wall pipe, lined with plywood. Then a yard of reinforced cement, lined with 1000# of USG casting plaster. The cement was cured for 2 weeks (waiting for dry weather), the plaster had 10 days of very dry weather with fans running during the days. The mold was set in a 2 ft deep hole and loosely backfilled. The mold and the keel bolts were pre-heated for 24 hours with an electric heater and a small fan. We limited the old bathtub to about 2000#, pouring 1500#, and retaining 500# to help melt the next batch. The original plan was to do a slow continous pour, but quickly learned it was far easier to keep the surface of the lead molten if we did a quick pour. One heater for the surface of the 8 foot keel was not enough. The addition of an oxygen-LP rosebud and another weed burner was more than adequate. Partly by design, and partly from a helper misreading the scales, I have excess lead for sale at scrap price. This is almost all melted, scimmed, and recast wheel weights. It will be about 3% antimony. I also have a "fire" suit and 2 full face sheilds with HEPA filters ready to run off your air compressor. I am located 5 hours NW of Chicago, 3 hours SE of Minneapolis. If you are interested, send an email and include your phone number. mm |
#3
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PS.. I hope you used wrought iron keel bolts.
Steve "mm" wrote in message ... The keel was poured yesterday, design weight of 6750#. When we pull it from the mould in the next week or two, it will be loaded on the trailer and go to town and to be weighed. Some parts of the process went better than others. The mold was very strong and stiff. The lead did not even put any pressure on the tie bolts along the open top. The exterior was 3" thick wall pipe, lined with plywood. Then a yard of reinforced cement, lined with 1000# of USG casting plaster. The cement was cured for 2 weeks (waiting for dry weather), the plaster had 10 days of very dry weather with fans running during the days. The mold was set in a 2 ft deep hole and loosely backfilled. The mold and the keel bolts were pre-heated for 24 hours with an electric heater and a small fan. We limited the old bathtub to about 2000#, pouring 1500#, and retaining 500# to help melt the next batch. The original plan was to do a slow continous pour, but quickly learned it was far easier to keep the surface of the lead molten if we did a quick pour. One heater for the surface of the 8 foot keel was not enough. The addition of an oxygen-LP rosebud and another weed burner was more than adequate. Partly by design, and partly from a helper misreading the scales, I have excess lead for sale at scrap price. This is almost all melted, scimmed, and recast wheel weights. It will be about 3% antimony. I also have a "fire" suit and 2 full face sheilds with HEPA filters ready to run off your air compressor. I am located 5 hours NW of Chicago, 3 hours SE of Minneapolis. If you are interested, send an email and include your phone number. mm |
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