Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.building
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Dec 2007
Posts: 11
Default Steel boat paint blistering

Thanks for all the comments.

Ideally I'd indeed like to have an isolated engine which would make my
dc system completely separated from the hull. It might be easy to do
if you have the money to buy a new starter motor, alternator and
senders, but I'm currently not in that position.

I'm now thinking of the second best option. Obviously I'll track down
the ground leak and correct it first. But then, what to do with the
engine? Put a ground wire to the hull or not?

Currently there is no ground wire. That means that any ground leak
takes current through the seawater to my prop/shaft or engine
internals (via cooling water) and via the engine negative wire back to
the battery. It eats away my expensive parts and paint.

If I would ground the engine to the hull, any ground leak would follow
the steel of the hull to that extra ground wire and via the engine
negative back to the battery. Hereby I assume that the path via the
steel is more attractive than "outside" via the sea water. I'd say
this is a better situation than the current because no electrolysis
takes place.

I'll post my problem to rec.boats.cruising too, see what they think.

Joost
  #2   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.building
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: May 2009
Posts: 50
Default Steel boat paint blistering

On Tue, 5 May 2009 02:19:09 -0700 (PDT), joost
wrote:

Thanks for all the comments.

Ideally I'd indeed like to have an isolated engine which would make my
dc system completely separated from the hull. It might be easy to do
if you have the money to buy a new starter motor, alternator and
senders, but I'm currently not in that position.


Well, I have a conventional starter and alternator and my engine is
isolated from the hull and propeller shaft.

The flexible engine mounts and a plastic flex plate between the engine
and shaft engine mount insolate the engine from the hull...

I'm now thinking of the second best option. Obviously I'll track down
the ground leak and correct it first. But then, what to do with the
engine? Put a ground wire to the hull or not?


You should do that.

As far as bonding goes, how is the engine coupled to the negative
terminal on the battery? In most cases there will be a "battery cable"
connection between the engine and battery. If so then this is
sufficient. Assuming the engine - battery connection what do you
expect a second wire connecting the engine to the hull will
accomplish?

Currently there is no ground wire. That means that any ground leak
takes current through the seawater to my prop/shaft or engine
internals (via cooling water) and via the engine negative wire back to
the battery. It eats away my expensive parts and paint.



If I would ground the engine to the hull, any ground leak would follow
the steel of the hull to that extra ground wire and via the engine
negative back to the battery. Hereby I assume that the path via the
steel is more attractive than "outside" via the sea water. I'd say
this is a better situation than the current because no electrolysis
takes place.


What ground leak? You should not have any utilities like lights,
radios, etc., that are electrically connected to the hull.


I'll post my problem to rec.boats.cruising too, see what they think.

Joost


Cheers,

Bruce in Bangkok
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
  #3   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats.building
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Dec 2008
Posts: 36
Default Steel boat paint blistering


"joost" wrote:

Ideally I'd indeed like to have an isolated engine which would make
my
dc system completely separated from the hull. It might be easy to do
if you have the money to buy a new starter motor, alternator and
senders, but I'm currently not in that position.


You basically have a "pay me now or pay me later" situation.

Either way you pay.

One way you get an isolated engine, the other you don't.

Lew


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Steel boat Bob Crantz ASA 4 May 7th 07 09:54 AM
Stainless Steel "rust" marks on paint Peter Hendra Cruising 23 March 30th 07 03:48 AM
Paint for aluminum boat? [email protected] Boat Building 5 July 4th 06 12:47 AM
Pleased so far with my new boat paint........ [email protected] General 4 April 29th 06 11:51 AM
Best paint system for bare steel hull? Gil G. Boat Building 9 May 10th 04 08:27 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:21 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2025 BoatBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Boats"

 

Copyright © 2017