polyurethane adhesive
 

Richard wrote:
Daniele Fua wrote:

Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will
comply for su epoxy.
Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too.
My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side and
I will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing teak
veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect the open
end of the fibers.
Daniel

Or maybe a couple of layers of 1/2 ounce "deck" cloth and epoxy to seal
everything?

Maybe... if I only knew what is a "deck cloth".
I am very keen to accept advices and try new techniques but please
notice that the deck is made of teak and so will be my artifact between
the deck and the windlass: I'd like to have an aesthetically pleasant match.
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

Daniele Fua wrote:

Richard wrote:

Daniele Fua wrote:

Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will
comply for su epoxy.
Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too.
My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side and
I will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing teak
veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect the open
end of the fibers.
Daniel


Or maybe a couple of layers of 1/2 ounce "deck" cloth and epoxy to seal
everything?


Maybe... if I only knew what is a "deck cloth".
I am very keen to accept advices and try new techniques but please
notice that the deck is made of teak and so will be my artifact between
the deck and the windlass: I'd like to have an aesthetically pleasant
match.
Daniel

Very light fine weave fiberglass cloth.
1080

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...475/index.html

polyurethane adhesive
 

Richard wrote:

Daniele Fua wrote:

Richard wrote:

Daniele Fua wrote:

Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will
comply for su epoxy.
Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too.
My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side
and I will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing
teak veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect
the open end of the fibers.
Daniel



Or maybe a couple of layers of 1/2 ounce "deck" cloth and epoxy to seal
everything?



Maybe... if I only knew what is a "deck cloth".
I am very keen to accept advices and try new techniques but please
notice that the deck is made of teak and so will be my artifact
between the deck and the windlass: I'd like to have an aesthetically
pleasant match.
Daniel


Very light fine weave fiberglass cloth.
1080

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...475/index.html


ANd, by the way, it becomes completely transparent!

polyurethane adhesive
 

Richard wrote:

Very light fine weave fiberglass cloth.
1080

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...475/index.html



ANd, by the way, it becomes completely transparent!

O.K. I understand.
Just one additional question: and UV? If it needs painting to be
protected then I'd prefer teak veneer.
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

Daniele Fua wrote:
Richard wrote:


Very light fine weave fiberglass cloth.
1080

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...475/index.html



ANd, by the way, it becomes completely transparent!


O.K. I understand.
Just one additional question: and UV? If it needs painting to be
protected then I'd prefer teak veneer.
Daniel

Which will also require protection from UV...

polyurethane adhesive
 

Richard wrote:

O.K. I understand.
Just one additional question: and UV? If it needs painting to be
protected then I'd prefer teak veneer.
Daniel

Which will also require protection from UV...

Is it so? I admit I did not imagine such problem and your advice is very
welcome.
Do I need to glue properly shaped closing planks/veneer with thickness
greater than a minimum?
The other possibility I can envisage is to have the open end of the
fibers deeply impregnated by thinned epoxy so that at least the inner
resin will not suffer from sun exposure.
As I wrote before I would like to have my artifact appear as untreated wood.
You have been very convincing about not using polyurethane and I will
appreciate your additional input.
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 22:04:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:

Richard wrote:

O.K. I understand.
Just one additional question: and UV? If it needs painting to be
protected then I'd prefer teak veneer.
Daniel

Which will also require protection from UV...

Is it so? I admit I did not imagine such problem and your advice is very
welcome.
Do I need to glue properly shaped closing planks/veneer with thickness
greater than a minimum?
The other possibility I can envisage is to have the open end of the
fibers deeply impregnated by thinned epoxy so that at least the inner
resin will not suffer from sun exposure.
As I wrote before I would like to have my artifact appear as untreated wood.
You have been very convincing about not using polyurethane and I will
appreciate your additional input.
Daniel


If you want it to look like untreated teak then just glue your teak
together with epoxy glue, finish it to shape and install it. Whatever
epoxy is in the seams will be effected by the sun to a negligible
extent. Look at the bare teak toe rail on any boat and you will see
that it is made up of lengths of teak scarfed together and glued. The
rail on my boat was done this way in 1971 and is still holding up. If
your winch base lasts 37 years I'm sure you will be happy.

If you are planning on using some other wood and covering it with teak
veneer I think that you will be disappointed as veneer is not very
robust.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)