polyurethane adhesive
 

Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:

Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller
handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to
immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces,
looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason
why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints.

BrianW

polyurethane adhesive
 

Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:


Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel


I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller
handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to
immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces,
looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason
why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints.

BrianW


Over time it will absrb moisture which can cause the bond to fail.
So if you use this kind of glue, makes sure you have a good heavy
varnish finish.

That's the beauty of using epoxy - the bond is a lot more impervious to
moisture although it will still need the varnish finish to protect from
UV.

Six of one - etc...

polyurethane adhesive
 

On Dec 14, 8:38 pm, Richard wrote:
Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:

Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller
handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to
immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces,
looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason
why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints.

BrianW

Over time it will absrb moisture which can cause the bond to fail.
So if you use this kind of glue, makes sure you have a good heavy
varnish finish.

That's the beauty of using epoxy - the bond is a lot more impervious to
moisture although it will still need the varnish finish to protect from
UV.

Six of one - etc...

I originally built parts of my MiniCup sailboats with "Gorilla Glue"
and I wish I had not. It has poor gap filling properties and seems o
let go after prolonged immersion. I have had to go back and replace
it with epoxy.

polyurethane adhesive
 

"Daniele Fua" wrote in message
. ..
Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

No. Polyurethane glue has no place in a boat in my opinion. First, it needs
a high clamping force of 4kg/cm2 or 60lb/in2 for a reliable bond. Do the
math for any serious area....

Second, it has no gap filling properties. Yes, it fills gaps with foam, but
without any strength. You need to have a very good tight fit.

Epoxy on the other hand can be "slapped on" and you can just lay the pieces
together and still obtain a bond far better than with poly goop.

Meindert

polyurethane adhesive
 

Daniela,
You will find doing the job correctly once is much better than doing twice
or more. Please remember the forces that will be involved, as the windlass
must be through bolted to a substantial beam under the deck. The base will
have to be solid to withstand the compression loads, flat on top and shaped
to the crown of the deck underneath. If large pieces of stock are used, they
could split over time. The best way to do this is to first make a shape
template to capture the crown, then laminate properly sized planks of 1 to 2
inches in thickness preprofiled for the deck crown with epoxy and clamped to
cure. When cured, finish as you wish. If the deck is teak, cut a rebate at
the deck line and seal with polysulfide sealant. Please remember to
alternate the grain, plank to plank, when assembling the lamination.
Steve

"Daniele Fua" wrote in message
. ..
Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive instead
of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of 1" teak
wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the windlass
and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

Brian Whatcott wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:01:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:

Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

I used a polyurethane one part ( "Gorilla" type) glue to make a tiller
handle. It brags about being the strongest, but says it's unsuited to
immersion. I was unhappy that it foamed out on finished surfaces,
looking very untidy during the setting interval. This is also a reason
why it calls for a light clamping force - else it can spring joints.

Actually, it needs very firm clamping pressure and a precise fit,
otherwise it will foam IN the joint, resulting in a very weak bond. I've
used it on parts that are frequently immersed - but not continually for
more than a few hours - and it works fine.

polyurethane adhesive
 

On Dec 14, 2:01*pm, Daniele Fua wrote:
Would you guys agree on the use of one-part polyurethane adhesive
instead of two-part epoxy with filler for gluing several (4) pieces of
1" teak wood planks in order to make a properly shaped base between the
windlass and the deck?

Thank you in advance
Daniel

not when i can go downt to the hardware store and pick up a two part
epoxy for the same price

polyurethane adhesive
 

Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will comply
for su epoxy.
Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too.
My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side and I
will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing teak
veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect the open
end of the fibers.
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

Daniele Fua wrote:

Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will comply
for su epoxy.
Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too.
My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side and I
will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing teak
veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect the open
end of the fibers.
Daniel

Or maybe a couple of layers of 1/2 ounce "deck" cloth and epoxy to seal
everything?

polyurethane adhesive
 

Richard wrote:
Daniele Fua wrote:

Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will
comply for su epoxy.
Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too.
My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side and
I will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing teak
veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect the open
end of the fibers.
Daniel

Or maybe a couple of layers of 1/2 ounce "deck" cloth and epoxy to seal
everything?

Maybe... if I only knew what is a "deck cloth".
I am very keen to accept advices and try new techniques but please
notice that the deck is made of teak and so will be my artifact between
the deck and the windlass: I'd like to have an aesthetically pleasant match.
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

Daniele Fua wrote:

Richard wrote:

Daniele Fua wrote:

Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will
comply for su epoxy.
Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too.
My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side and
I will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing teak
veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect the open
end of the fibers.
Daniel


Or maybe a couple of layers of 1/2 ounce "deck" cloth and epoxy to seal
everything?


Maybe... if I only knew what is a "deck cloth".
I am very keen to accept advices and try new techniques but please
notice that the deck is made of teak and so will be my artifact between
the deck and the windlass: I'd like to have an aesthetically pleasant
match.
Daniel

Very light fine weave fiberglass cloth.
1080

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...475/index.html

polyurethane adhesive
 

Richard wrote:

Daniele Fua wrote:

Richard wrote:

Daniele Fua wrote:

Thanks to you all, the poll had one unanimous response and I will
comply for su epoxy.
Thanks to Steve for the additional advices: I will follow them too.
My planks are already 1 inch thick which puts me on the safe side
and I will cross the grain directions. I was also thinking of gluing
teak veneer (approx 3/32" thick) on the sides in order to protect
the open end of the fibers.
Daniel



Or maybe a couple of layers of 1/2 ounce "deck" cloth and epoxy to seal
everything?



Maybe... if I only knew what is a "deck cloth".
I am very keen to accept advices and try new techniques but please
notice that the deck is made of teak and so will be my artifact
between the deck and the windlass: I'd like to have an aesthetically
pleasant match.
Daniel


Very light fine weave fiberglass cloth.
1080

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...475/index.html


ANd, by the way, it becomes completely transparent!

polyurethane adhesive
 

Richard wrote:

Very light fine weave fiberglass cloth.
1080

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...475/index.html



ANd, by the way, it becomes completely transparent!

O.K. I understand.
Just one additional question: and UV? If it needs painting to be
protected then I'd prefer teak veneer.
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

Daniele Fua wrote:
Richard wrote:


Very light fine weave fiberglass cloth.
1080

http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog...475/index.html



ANd, by the way, it becomes completely transparent!


O.K. I understand.
Just one additional question: and UV? If it needs painting to be
protected then I'd prefer teak veneer.
Daniel

Which will also require protection from UV...

polyurethane adhesive
 

Richard wrote:

O.K. I understand.
Just one additional question: and UV? If it needs painting to be
protected then I'd prefer teak veneer.
Daniel

Which will also require protection from UV...

Is it so? I admit I did not imagine such problem and your advice is very
welcome.
Do I need to glue properly shaped closing planks/veneer with thickness
greater than a minimum?
The other possibility I can envisage is to have the open end of the
fibers deeply impregnated by thinned epoxy so that at least the inner
resin will not suffer from sun exposure.
As I wrote before I would like to have my artifact appear as untreated wood.
You have been very convincing about not using polyurethane and I will
appreciate your additional input.
Daniel

polyurethane adhesive
 

On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 22:04:55 +0100, Daniele Fua
wrote:

Richard wrote:

O.K. I understand.
Just one additional question: and UV? If it needs painting to be
protected then I'd prefer teak veneer.
Daniel

Which will also require protection from UV...

Is it so? I admit I did not imagine such problem and your advice is very
welcome.
Do I need to glue properly shaped closing planks/veneer with thickness
greater than a minimum?
The other possibility I can envisage is to have the open end of the
fibers deeply impregnated by thinned epoxy so that at least the inner
resin will not suffer from sun exposure.
As I wrote before I would like to have my artifact appear as untreated wood.
You have been very convincing about not using polyurethane and I will
appreciate your additional input.
Daniel


If you want it to look like untreated teak then just glue your teak
together with epoxy glue, finish it to shape and install it. Whatever
epoxy is in the seams will be effected by the sun to a negligible
extent. Look at the bare teak toe rail on any boat and you will see
that it is made up of lengths of teak scarfed together and glued. The
rail on my boat was done this way in 1971 and is still holding up. If
your winch base lasts 37 years I'm sure you will be happy.

If you are planning on using some other wood and covering it with teak
veneer I think that you will be disappointed as veneer is not very
robust.
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)