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#1
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Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
Has anyone used an exhast manifold wrap in your engine room?
Seems you can not get any good asbestos any more so the best wrap on the market is DEI fiberglass wrap: http://vtwinplus.com/Jan2005/techspotliteheatwrap.htm Seems like the way to go..any other suggestions? Joe |
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#2
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
"Joe" wrote in message
ups.com... Has anyone used an exhast manifold wrap in your engine room? Seems you can not get any good asbestos any more so the best wrap on the market is DEI fiberglass wrap: http://vtwinplus.com/Jan2005/techspotliteheatwrap.htm Seems like the way to go..any other suggestions? Joe It's actually on my list of things to do... check the exhaust pipe for damage. According to the previous owner, it wasn't replaced with the highest quality, due to lack of availability of the replacement part and time constraints/location of the boat. It seemed fine when I looked on the weekend, but I didn't unwrap the insulation.. it was wired on. The previous owner claims that it's "easy" to undo the wire wrap, but I didn't have time to try it. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
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#3
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
When it starts to leak black stains may appear.
A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide. Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust leakage gets blown out of the boat. The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of being blown into the boat. You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the alternator belt to study airflow. Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple. Terry K |
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#4
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
"Terry K" wrote in message
oups.com... When it starts to leak black stains may appear. A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide. Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust leakage gets blown out of the boat. The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of being blown into the boat. You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the alternator belt to study airflow. Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple. Terry K I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with the engine cover off, something I don't normally do. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
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#5
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
On Jun 11, 4:32 pm, "Capt. JG" wrote:
"Terry K" wrote in message oups.com... When it starts to leak black stains may appear. A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide. Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust leakage gets blown out of the boat. The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of being blown into the boat. You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the alternator belt to study airflow. Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple. Terry K I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with the engine cover off, something I don't normally do. -- "j" ganz - Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - We were real lucky when our exhaust riser broke recently, I guess. It must have had a small crack for quite awile, but wasn't apparent for the reasons Terry outlines. I've never quite believed in CO sensors, but think I may just install one now. Seems the motor mounts are worn out on Arabella and the increased vibration probably caused the pipe to go-though no doubt it was ready. This is the most helpful thread I've ever encountered on ASA! Scary! Mike s/y Arabella-currently in Tahiti getting new exhaust riser and mixing elbow www.sailinglinks.com |
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#6
posted to alt.sailing.asa
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Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
"cruisin" wrote in message
oups.com... On Jun 11, 4:32 pm, "Capt. JG" wrote: "Terry K" wrote in message oups.com... When it starts to leak black stains may appear. A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide. Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust leakage gets blown out of the boat. The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of being blown into the boat. You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the alternator belt to study airflow. Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple. Terry K I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with the engine cover off, something I don't normally do. -- "j" ganz - Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - We were real lucky when our exhaust riser broke recently, I guess. It must have had a small crack for quite awile, but wasn't apparent for the reasons Terry outlines. I've never quite believed in CO sensors, but think I may just install one now. Seems the motor mounts are worn out on Arabella and the increased vibration probably caused the pipe to go-though no doubt it was ready. This is the most helpful thread I've ever encountered on ASA! Scary! Mike s/y Arabella-currently in Tahiti getting new exhaust riser and mixing elbow www.sailinglinks.com I'm heading down to the boat to inspect the exhaust pipe and connections. The previous owner gave me a heads-up about a potential problem. Might as well check it out. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
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#7
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
On Jun 11, 4:32 pm, "Capt. JG" wrote:
"Terry K" wrote in message oups.com... When it starts to leak black stains may appear. A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide. Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust leakage gets blown out of the boat. The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of being blown into the boat. You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the alternator belt to study airflow. Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple. Terry K I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with the engine cover off, something I don't normally do. -- "j" ganz - Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - sorry, didn't realize I was crossposting to rec.boats...till too late... mike |
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#8
posted to alt.sailing.asa,rec.boats.cruising
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Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
On Jun 14, 2:46 am, cruisin wrote:
On Jun 11, 4:32 pm, "Capt. JG" wrote: "Terry K" wrote in message roups.com... When it starts to leak black stains may appear. A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide. Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust leakage gets blown out of the boat. The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of being blown into the boat. You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the alternator belt to study airflow. Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple. Terry K I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with the engine cover off, something I don't normally do. -- "j" ganz -Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - sorry, didn't realize I was crossposting to rec.boats...till too late... mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You can cross post if the subject matter fits and both groups would be interested. How the cruise going? Where are you now? Joe |
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