Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

Has anyone used an exhast manifold wrap in your engine room?

Seems you can not get any good asbestos any more so the best wrap on
the market is DEI fiberglass wrap:

http://vtwinplus.com/Jan2005/techspotliteheatwrap.htm

Seems like the way to go..any other suggestions?

Joe

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

"Joe" wrote in message
ups.com...
Has anyone used an exhast manifold wrap in your engine room?

Seems you can not get any good asbestos any more so the best wrap on
the market is DEI fiberglass wrap:

http://vtwinplus.com/Jan2005/techspotliteheatwrap.htm

Seems like the way to go..any other suggestions?

Joe



It's actually on my list of things to do... check the exhaust pipe for
damage. According to the previous owner, it wasn't replaced with the highest
quality, due to lack of availability of the replacement part and time
constraints/location of the boat. It seemed fine when I looked on the
weekend, but I didn't unwrap the insulation.. it was wired on. The previous
owner claims that it's "easy" to undo the wire wrap, but I didn't have time
to try it.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

When it starts to leak black stains may appear.

A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide.

Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust
leakage gets blown out of the boat.

The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near
the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that
minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of
being blown into the boat.

You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using
a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the
alternator belt to study airflow.

Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g
tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties
instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from
an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or
so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch
iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another
automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple.

Terry K

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

"Terry K" wrote in message
oups.com...
When it starts to leak black stains may appear.

A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide.

Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust
leakage gets blown out of the boat.

The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near
the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that
minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of
being blown into the boat.

You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using
a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the
alternator belt to study airflow.

Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g
tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties
instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from
an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or
so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch
iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another
automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple.

Terry K


I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with
the engine cover off, something I don't normally do.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

On Jun 11, 4:32 pm, "Capt. JG" wrote:
"Terry K" wrote in message

oups.com...





When it starts to leak black stains may appear.

A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide.

Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust
leakage gets blown out of the boat.

The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near
the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that
minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of
being blown into the boat.

You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using
a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the
alternator belt to study airflow.

Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g
tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties
instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from
an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or
so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch
iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another
automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple.

Terry K

I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with
the engine cover off, something I don't normally do.

--
"j" ganz - Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We were real lucky when our exhaust riser broke recently, I guess. It
must have had a small crack for quite awile, but wasn't apparent for
the reasons Terry outlines. I've never quite believed in CO sensors,
but think I may just install one now.
Seems the motor mounts are worn out on Arabella and the increased
vibration probably caused the pipe to go-though no doubt it was ready.
This is the most helpful thread I've ever encountered on ASA! Scary!

Mike
s/y Arabella-currently in Tahiti getting new exhaust riser and mixing
elbow
www.sailinglinks.com

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

On Jun 11, 4:32 pm, "Capt. JG" wrote:
"Terry K" wrote in message

oups.com...





When it starts to leak black stains may appear.

A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide.

Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust
leakage gets blown out of the boat.

The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near
the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that
minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of
being blown into the boat.

You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using
a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the
alternator belt to study airflow.

Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g
tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties
instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from
an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or
so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch
iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another
automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple.

Terry K

I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with
the engine cover off, something I don't normally do.

--
"j" ganz - Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

sorry, didn't realize I was crossposting to rec.boats...till too
late...

mike

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

On Jun 14, 2:46 am, cruisin wrote:
On Jun 11, 4:32 pm, "Capt. JG" wrote:





"Terry K" wrote in message

roups.com...

When it starts to leak black stains may appear.

A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide.

Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust
leakage gets blown out of the boat.

The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near
the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that
minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of
being blown into the boat.

You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using
a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the
alternator belt to study airflow.

Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g
tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties
instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from
an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or
so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch
iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another
automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple.

Terry K

I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even with
the engine cover off, something I don't normally do.

--
"j" ganz -Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

sorry, didn't realize I was crossposting to rec.boats...till too
late...

mike- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You can cross post if the subject matter fits and both groups would be
interested.

How the cruise going? Where are you now?

Joe

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

"cruisin" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 11, 4:32 pm, "Capt. JG" wrote:
"Terry K" wrote in message

oups.com...





When it starts to leak black stains may appear.

A CO monitor will help ensure you breath no serious monoxide.

Running the engine room ventilator is more insurance any exhaust
leakage gets blown out of the boat.

The aspiration of the engine may also reduce atmospheric pressure near
the engine by pulling air into the compartment, more assurance that
minimal exhaust leakage is recycled through the engine instead of
being blown into the boat.

You can check air movements around the compartment boundaries by using
a smoke source. These may become more apparrant if you take off the
alternator belt to study airflow.

Peeling the exhaust is messy and irritating and you would want new f/g
tape and wire. Mine was easier to relap using individual wire ties
instead of trying to do a long spiral siezing. I got the f/g tape from
an engine performance car part dealer. Enough to do the boat twice or
so for 70 bucks. When I redid the engine exhaust, I used 1-1/2 inch
iron pipe and fittings, with some welding for the bellows, another
automotive part. My exhaust manifold accepts a 1-1/2" nipple.

Terry K

I installed a CO monitor, and so far haven't had any problems... even
with
the engine cover off, something I don't normally do.

--
"j" ganz - Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We were real lucky when our exhaust riser broke recently, I guess. It
must have had a small crack for quite awile, but wasn't apparent for
the reasons Terry outlines. I've never quite believed in CO sensors,
but think I may just install one now.
Seems the motor mounts are worn out on Arabella and the increased
vibration probably caused the pipe to go-though no doubt it was ready.
This is the most helpful thread I've ever encountered on ASA! Scary!

Mike
s/y Arabella-currently in Tahiti getting new exhaust riser and mixing
elbow
www.sailinglinks.com



I'm heading down to the boat to inspect the exhaust pipe and connections.
The previous owner gave me a heads-up about a potential problem. Might as
well check it out.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

On Thu, 14 Jun 2007 08:36:58 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote this crap:

I'm heading down to the boat to inspect the exhaust pipe and connections.
The previous owner gave me a head-job.


You just have to gay-up every post, don't you?






This post is 100% free of steroids

Engine Room Heat and Burn Reduction
 

"Horvath" wrote in message
. com...
On Thu, 14 Jun 2007 08:36:58 -0700, "Capt. JG"
wrote this crap:

I'm heading down to the boat to inspect the exhaust pipe and connections.
The previous owner gave me a head-job.


You just have to gay-up every post, don't you?


We know you have a problem, but it seems you don't know you have a problem.
Very sad. I'm sorry for you.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com