"Bill" wrote:
Um......Voting is stupid and we should just bomb the rest of the world
into dust so that we can build cheap condos and more marinas for our
boats.


What kind of bombs should we use? I would favor nukes, they are very
cost effective and we need to reduce current inventory anyway. Might
create a long term liability for the condo/marina developers though.
OK now that we've got the mandatory OT political content out of the
way, let's talk boats!

PS w


I think i am leaning towards the Epifanes option here. I need it
hard. I'll try not o drag it on the beach but sometimes it happens,
not to mention the trailer.


Epifanes and Bristol are both good finishes. You want it hard to
resist scratching but it also has to be flexible and have excellent
adherence as the wood swells & shrinks (this is where epoxy resin has
it all over polyester for laminating stuff to wood). Any of the high-
end varnishes with UV protection and high-build formulation will do
the trick, none of them are inexpensive though. Not in the $60/qt
range, but still pricey. And since you're specifically buying it for
the UV protection, cheap varnish isn't going to do the job.



What you may consider is to do the last laminating over your wood with
a peel ply, then lay on another coat of epoxy with UV inhibitor.


This is a maybe but i really want that glassy look on the boat. I
don't know if i can get that with a peel ply with cheap varnish over
the top.


Peel ply is GREAT stuff. I used it for the first time last year on a
fairly technical prject... now I use it for almost any epoxying/
fiberglassing job; it is not expensive and it saves a lot of work. The
peel ply is a layer of porous cloth that the resin won't stick to.
Sounds great huh? You lay it over the wet lamination, roller it down,
and the resin oozes up thru the peel ply. Sounds better & better eh?
Well it improves adherence, eliminates voids & bubbles, gives you a
higher fiber/resin ratio, and (here's the best part) when you peel it
off the cured lamination, it leaves behind a roughened but uniform
surface that doesn't need any sanding before putting on another layer.
Stronger better faster, and no sanding dust. Secondary bonds put on a
peel ply-ed surface are about 20 to 30% stronger, and if you do it
while the resin is still a little green, it's not a secondary bond at
all.

I have laid on paint over a peel ply-ed surface and came out
beautiful. A resin finish would surely do the same, you could sand &
varnish the final coat if you chose.

Any pictures of your outrigger?

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

wrote in message
oups.com...
"Bill" wrote:
Um......Voting is stupid and we should just bomb the rest of the world
into dust so that we can build cheap condos and more marinas for our
boats.


What kind of bombs should we use? I would favor nukes, they are very
cost effective and we need to reduce current inventory anyway. Might
create a long term liability for the condo/marina developers though.

Indeed. With half-lives in the thousands of years, I think daisy-cutters
and thermite bombs might be more appropriate. And cheaper. Of course that
does nothing to reduce the stockpile of nukes. Perhaps we could send those
to the sun. Perhaps a simultaneous detonation of all the Earth's nukes
might brighten the sun to the point that Chicago would become a "tropical"
paradise, replete with palms growing on the shores of Lake Michigan.

Max

What kind of bombs should we use?

We could make 'Dirty bombs' out of nuclear waste from nuclear power
plants. Not nearly as contaminating as actual nukes but still deadly,
for a really long time.

"Bill" wrote in message
oups.com...
What kind of bombs should we use?

We could make 'Dirty bombs' out of nuclear waste from nuclear power
plants. Not nearly as contaminating as actual nukes but still deadly,
for a really long time.

How about neutron bombs? My understanding is that they preserve the
infrastructure whilst eliminating the population, and with little or no
residual radioactivity.

Max

What kind of bombs should we use?


We could make 'Dirty bombs' out of nuclear waste from nuclear power
plants. Not nearly as contaminating as actual nukes but still deadly,
for a really long time.


"Maxprop" wrote:
How about neutron bombs? My understanding is that they preserve the
infrastructure whilst eliminating the population, and with little or no
residual radioactivity.


Yeah, but if you want that glass-bottomed lake effect, you gotta use
the full monty.

What infrastructure do we want to preserve anyway? I thought one of
the lessons of the current war is that the more stuff you blow up, the
more contractors get paid to rebuild it.

DSK

wrote in message
ups.com...
What kind of bombs should we use?


We could make 'Dirty bombs' out of nuclear waste from nuclear power
plants. Not nearly as contaminating as actual nukes but still deadly,
for a really long time.


"Maxprop" wrote:
How about neutron bombs? My understanding is that they preserve the
infrastructure whilst eliminating the population, and with little or no
residual radioactivity.


Yeah, but if you want that glass-bottomed lake effect, you gotta use
the full monty.

What infrastructure do we want to preserve anyway?

I was waiting for someone to ask this. You might say I straightlined for a
response.

I thought one of
the lessons of the current war is that the more stuff you blow up, the
more contractors get paid to rebuild it.

Now that Haliburton is in Dubai, the floodgates are open. Katy bar the door
.. . .

Max

One more question. When you do peel ply, do you use a breather
absorber material or do you just absorb the excess with a roller?

Thanks
Bill

Bill wrote:
One more question. When you do peel ply, do you use a breather
absorber material or do you just absorb the excess with a roller?

Thanks
Bill


Usually an absorber layer - burlap works well.

"Bill" wrote:
One more question. When you do peel ply, do you use a breather
absorber material or do you just absorb the excess with a roller?


Neither.

http://sports.webshots.com/photo/205...p?vhost=sports

I used a layer of very cheap PVC sheeting (sold in Home Depot/Lowes as
painters drop cloth), which will not adhere to resin, directly over
the peel ply. Lay on the goop, lay on the FG cloth, lay on the peel
ply, lay on the drop cloth; then roller the crap out of it (being
somewhat careful to not wrinkle or tear the sheet... easy when one
gets the knack); then go do something else for a few hours. With the
plastic sheet over the lamination, bubbles don't tend to creep back in
once the stuff is rollered down good, excess oozes thru the peel ply
and off the edge (in fact I often scooped it up and used it
eleswhere). The peel ply can't be re-used but the PVC drop cloth can
be used many times. Get 3 mil for large flattish areas you want really
smooth and rollered down hard; use lighter stuff down to 0.7mil for
compound tight curves and be gentler with it.

It's not quite as strong & light as vacuum bagging, but it's cheaper &
simpler & quite reliable.

I'm not sure burlap would make a good breather. You want something
that will be relatively transparent so you can see the bubbles & work
them out. A thin layer of matte, such as would be used to vacuum bag,
would probably work but it's one more specialty item to buy.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

wrote:
"Bill" wrote:

One more question. When you do peel ply, do you use a breather
absorber material or do you just absorb the excess with a roller?



Neither.

http://sports.webshots.com/photo/205...p?vhost=sports

I used a layer of very cheap PVC sheeting (sold in Home Depot/Lowes as
painters drop cloth), which will not adhere to resin, directly over
the peel ply. Lay on the goop, lay on the FG cloth, lay on the peel
ply, lay on the drop cloth; then roller the crap out of it (being
somewhat careful to not wrinkle or tear the sheet... easy when one
gets the knack); then go do something else for a few hours. With the
plastic sheet over the lamination, bubbles don't tend to creep back in
once the stuff is rollered down good, excess oozes thru the peel ply
and off the edge (in fact I often scooped it up and used it
eleswhere). The peel ply can't be re-used but the PVC drop cloth can
be used many times. Get 3 mil for large flattish areas you want really
smooth and rollered down hard; use lighter stuff down to 0.7mil for
compound tight curves and be gentler with it.

It's not quite as strong & light as vacuum bagging, but it's cheaper &
simpler & quite reliable.

I'm not sure burlap would make a good breather. You want something
that will be relatively transparent so you can see the bubbles & work
them out. A thin layer of matte, such as would be used to vacuum bag,
would probably work but it's one more specialty item to buy.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King


Sorry Doug.

I use burlap - but that's for vacuum bagging...

Richard