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"Bill" wrote
Sorry about posting in two places but I am looking for some help on this. Also I appoligize for the lack of political commentary in this post but...... That's OK. You can make it up to the group later. I am building an outrigger sailing canoe in cedar strip with a fiberglass epoxy covering and am having issues with varnish selection. I have used 1 part on other projects in the past but am interested in teh possibilities of 2 part. It is aparantly harder, chemically resistant, and lasts much longer. The problem is that it is much more expensive. That's not the only problem with it. ...... Is it really worth the cost For your application, not even. I'm guessing what you want is a clear finish over the final epoxy that will protect it from scuffs & UV. Maxprop" wrote: ..... Poly varnishes, applied properly, are beautiful and UV-resistant, but difficult to remove. What he said. Any of the three would meet your needs, especially if you have no intention of leaving your cedar-strip canoe out in the sun indefinitely. Long oil varnish is easy to "refresh," i.e.--sand and recoat to remove what little oxidation forms on the surface due to UV. It can be stripped and/or sanded down to bare wood fairly easily. As I understand it, he's not going to have bare wood in any event. One-part urethanes are tougher, but probably not a lot more UV-resistant than long oil varnishes. And they are very difficult to strip with chemical strippers or a heat gun. They can be refreshed, but if you allow them to degrade beyond the point where refreshing is an option, you must remove them to bare wood, and that can be a very tough job. Nah, a heat gun & scraper will take the stuff off, but it's a royal PITA and everything else Max says is true in spades. Polyurethane is for furniture, preferably furniture that doesn't get a lot of use. In my experience it looks great for about a week but it is subject to crazing & fogging and it cannot be touched up at all.... you gotta take it all off and put it all back on. Furthermore (and this is the real kicker) many polyurethane finishes will not harden properly when laid on over epoxy. I've had this problem before and it's very frustrating. Manufacturers act like they've never heard it before but they've known for years. If any urethane or poly paint/varnish doesn't specifically say that it is compatible with epoxy primers & undercoats, DON'T put it on over epoxy! What you may consider is to do the last laminating over your wood with a peel ply, then lay on another coat of epoxy with UV inhibitor. MAS & West both make them and they are both beautiful & tough finishes. They can be touched up at will. Should be just fine with nothing over it, unless you're going to leave the boat lay in the sun all season. Then you might want to put some cheap varnish over it.... it will look yellow, but the varnish will come off before the epoxy, like a sacrificial layer ![]() .. Another option, one that I have used in the past and will again this season, is some type of inexpensive exterior latex like Weatherbeater. It ain't varnish, but it protects & seals beautifully. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
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