Joe wrote:
Are you saying run tubing inside the hull, but in contact with the
hull?
If so that would be a maintance nightmare.


Why? If you're worried about galvanic corrosion, use the
same material as the hull, put down a grid of half-round. To
prevent pockets & puddles, you could fair it over flat with
some cladding.

Or, since that would be a lot of work, just use tubing....
clad it into place with some material of low specific heat,
put insulation over it, and some zincs.


One of the best features in the Oragami boats and the Strong All yachts
is the lack of framing. Framing is metals boats worst maintance
problem.

Yep. Some of the Navy ships I worked on had frames that were
rusted all the way thru, right at the junction with the
hull... most noticable hull rust there, too. Shucks, the
first destroyer I was on had some big fiberglass patches in
the aft boiler room. We used to joke about not chipping too
much rust because that was all that was keeping the water out.


.... A copper nickle frameless hull 5MM thick
would last 300 years and never need painting.


But it would go thru a lot of zincs.


Aluminum doesn't rust. Doesn't need an inhibitor.


His boat is steel and I guess he using anti freeze Glycol whatever...


Ah so, I thought the Origami boats were aluminum.


All the steel supply boats I ran (225-300fters) had keel coolers.
4"X2" steel channels about 100' long welded to the outside of the hull.
Simple and worked great.


Yep... only problem is if you bang something against it, or
if it gets fouled up with barnacles etc etc.




Another clever idea for a heat sink is to put a coil in each
thru-hull. Some refrigeration units have these as an option,
gets similar efficiency to water-cooling but you don't need
a pump.


Just a coil before the exchanger to cool the feed water?


Condenser coil built into the thru hull. They're a little
more bulky than a regular thru hull.

Sure it dumps heat into the water coming in, but not very much.

DSK