"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15" throughout. I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once I was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few of the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated well. The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6 months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any leak on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added shutoffs to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part of the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can mix it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine coolant, reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it dry with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot water heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get below 32 tonight!
Scout

Why are you Winterizing now, it's still Fall?


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm
considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater
for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a
local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15" throughout.
I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly
different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once I
was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and
re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow
out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few of
the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear
out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it
all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated well.
The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak
confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were
used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6
months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no
shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any leak
on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added shutoffs
to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part of
the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only
semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can mix
it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine coolant,
reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and
flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it dry
with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it
out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot water
heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get
below 32 tonight!
Scout

I'm a bit slow!
Scout

"Scotty" wrote in message
. ..
Why are you Winterizing now, it's still Fall?


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm
considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water heater
for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to find a
local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15" throughout.
I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly
different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once I
was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and
re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow
out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few of
the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear
out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it
all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated well.
The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak
confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were
used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6
months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no
shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any leak
on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added shutoffs
to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part of
the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only
semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can mix
it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine coolant,
reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and
flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it dry
with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it
out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot water
heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get
below 32 tonight!
Scout

Oh, it's for *last* Winter.

SV

"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
I'm a bit slow!
Scout

"Scotty" wrote in message
. ..
Why are you Winterizing now, it's still Fall?


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm
considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water
heater
for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to
find a
local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15"
throughout.
I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly
different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once
I
was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and
re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow
out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few
of
the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear
out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it
all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated
well.
The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak
confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were
used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6
months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no
shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any
leak
on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added
shutoffs
to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part
of
the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only
semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can
mix
it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine
coolant,
reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and
flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it
dry
with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it
out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot
water
heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get
below 32 tonight!
Scout

I've learned the hard way.
Remember that home made water cooled AC unit I made for the Starwind? Every
Spring I had to crimp and braze all the burst copper tubing. I never got
around to winterizing but I got good at repairing. This time I'm being
proactive!
Scout - "things I did not learn at once, I learned by doing twice"


"Scotty" wrote in message
...
Oh, it's for *last* Winter.

SV

"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
I'm a bit slow!
Scout

"Scotty" wrote in message
. ..
Why are you Winterizing now, it's still Fall?


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"Scout" wrote in message
. ..
"Jeff" wrote in message
...
Scout wrote:
Anyone familiar with PEXtite systems?
After getting a close up look at my plumbing, I'm
considering some
changes and mods, like a bypass on the hot water
heater
for winterizing
purposes.
Looks like it's easy to work with. Just need to
find a
local supplier.
Scout

My boat was built with the Whale "System 15"
throughout.
I think its
similar, except that the fittings are a slightly
different size (15 mm?).
For a while, I had trouble getting parts, then, once
I
was fully stocked,
West start to carry two different brands.

Its actually rather nice to be able disconnect and
re-connect quickly. For
winterizing, I disconnect the main delivery, and blow
out the lines with a
dinghy pump or compressor. Then I disconnect a few
of
the low spots.
There are a few small issues. The connectors do wear
out with use, so in
the spring I usually have a little trouble getting it
all tight. Usually,
a little poking and tugging gets everything seated
well.
The hardest can
be the delivery from the tank where a small air leak
confuses the pump.

Another problem I had was that plastic fittings were
used to connect to
the water heater, and one of these failed within 6
months. A metal tail
must be used in this situation. Also, there were no
shutoffs - I added
one on the lone to the hot water heater so that any
leak
on that side
doesn't disable the cold water. Also, I added
shutoffs
to the cockpit
shower so that the lines "outside" of the heated part
of
the boat can be
shut down.

A downside, of course, is that the tube is only
semi-flexible and you have
to think about how to do runs. If need be, you can
mix
it with
traditional pipe.

Thanks Jeff,
I started winterizing today. Checked the engine
coolant,
reads good to -10
deg F.
Poured a gallon of RV anti-freeze in the toilet and
flushed it into the
tank. Pour a quart in the shower drain and sucked it
dry
with the pump.
Poured some in the ice box but the pump didn't suck it
out, may be a
blockage, i'll check that next time. Drained the hot
water
heater tank.
Tomorrow is another day, just as long as it doesn't get
below 32 tonight!
Scout